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.530 round ball and .010 patch?

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elbow

32 Cal.
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I just got a TC New EnglAnder 54 cal and cast my own 530 balls from soft lead. Will the TC .010 patches work well with that size ball and Pyrodex RS?
 
My .54 cal is an older Cabelas Investarms. I get amazing accuracy with .530" balls cast from a Lee Mold, and .018" patches. They're tighter than most folks like, but with 70 Gr. Pyrodex RS, accuracy could only be better in the hands of a better rifleman.

Try the .010" patches. If accuracy seems erratic, you may spend all day trying to find the best powder charge, but without good result. .015" patches should be better.

Just for the halibut, you may want to try 2 - .010" patches stuck together - possible won't be able to seat it without a wooden mallet, & rifling may cut up the patches, but until you try, you'll never know.
 
elbow said:
I just got a TC New EnglAnder 54 cal and cast my own 530 balls from soft lead. Will the TC .010 patches work well with that size ball and Pyrodex RS?

As others have indicated that is probably too thin for your rifle. Nothing is perzact in this game, however. It may work but likely won't. Doesn't cost much to buy 1/8 yard each of ticking and denim and try those also.
And, please try real bp instead of the fake stuff.
 
I had a .54 T/C Hawkens that required a .010 patch with a .530 ball. With a .015 or .018 patch, you could beat that ball all day and it wouldn;t even start. I heard that many T/Cs had shallow grooves that were designed more for shooting the Maxi Balls. I finally gave that rifle away and bought another .54 Lyman.
 
I heard that many T/Cs had shallow grooves that were designed more for shooting the Maxi Balls

I don't know that the made for shooting Maxi part is correct. Not saying it isn't, I just don't know.
But, I do know in the early days of TC ml rifles, especially the 'hawken' their rifling often tended to be very-very shallow. Myself, and others were often on a quest to find good quality very thing patching material. We discovered that airplane cloth fit the need quite well. Very thin, tight weave and incredibly strong. With that we could shoot soft lead prb very well.
Another thing with TC ml barrels, they were very inconsistent between barrels. This was due to machining wear, sources of steel, sometime barrels were outsourced, etc. So the only thing that can be said about the early TCs consistently was they were inconsistent.
 
A few years ago I went on a quest for "airplane cloth" and could find none. Even a local aviation mechanic and airframe school did not have any ideas.

Any suggestions on where to obtain some?
 
Your quest sounds like my adventure to find the toughest paper out there for paper-patched bullets. I reasoned, I think quite reasonably, that bank note paper would be the toughest...BATF didn't agree! At least I was smart enough to ask them before I started leaving my name around looking for it. They did suggest one solution since even a government employee saw the beauty of the plan...exchange a few George Washington for a few thousand lira or francs! Big notes and not worth a bunch. Got sidetracked and never followed through with the plan...wonder how many stars I have against my name though!!
 
marmotslayer said:
A few years ago I went on a quest for "airplane cloth" and could find none. Even a local aviation mechanic and airframe school did not have any ideas.

Any suggestions on where to obtain some?

In later years I looked for more but, like you, was unsuccessful. I finally contacted a source that had information the FAA had outlawed it due to safety considerations. However, since some antique airplanes are still being restored, I have to believe it is available somewhere. I no longer have an interest but, if I did, I would start searching antique airplane discussion forums and such.
 
I am not sure how they measure the thickness of their patches. There are two measurements for determining the actual thickness of a patch. There is the uncompressed measurement and the compressed measurement. Of the two, the compressed measurement is the more accurate. To get the uncompressed measurement, you simply place the fabric in the micrometer and run it closed until the ratchet knob clicks. To get the compressed measurement, you gently but firmly tighten down on the knob until it is down pretty snugly. This will give you the compressed measurement. The reason the compressed measurement is of greater use is that it more closely represents the thickness of the patch as it is compressed between the ball and the inside of the bore. I find that I get good results with a fabric called "pocket drill" that I buy at Jo-Ann's Fabrics. it is a tightly woven 100% cotton fabric that is used to make pockets. After washing and drying, I find that it will mic .018 uncompressed and .011 compressed. In my rifle, with a .530 ball it works quite well. If you use a thinner fabric, you may need to add a felt over powder wad to protect the patch from burn through. I use a 1/8 inch lubed felt OP wad in my .54 cal. rifle even though I use the pocket drill fabric. I think I get a more consistent muzzle velocity when using lubed OP wads.
 
Why not check with manufactures of kit planes? Several of them are made of tube and fabric or wood and fabric. just a thought :v
 
I have tried Cabella's .010 patches. I noted, they are not .010, but .006 when measured with a micrometer.(uncompressed) The balls seat very nicely, but burn through.
I accidently used two patches, and did not get burn through on one of the patches.. I may have to try some of their .020 patches, which most likely will be around .012.. (hopefully)
I do have pillow ticking, that is .018,(uncompressed) and with a fouled bore, gets kind of difficult to shove a ball down.. but, I never get burn through.. I am trying to find something that is a little thinner, that doesn't burn through.
 
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