.54 charge workup

[Rangefogger]

I have a .54 woodsrunner that I just finished up recently, and decided yesterday would be the day I’d take it to the range to work up a good accurate charge and sight in, I was able to get cloverleafs at 50 yards after trying many different powder charges and ball patch combos. I found the most accurate charge to be

55 grains 2F Swiss
.530 RB
.020 patch

I tried charges from 55 grains to 100 grains in 5 grain increments but nothing could come even close to the 55 grain charge, so I left it at that and sighted in at 50 and 100 yards (100 yd with shoulders of rear sight at base of the front sight).

It only gives me about 1300 FPS average according to my chronograph, which I’m wondering if it’s adequate for deer and possibly black bear or elk. Does anyone else use this low of a charge in their 54?

 

[leadhoarder]

That ball of lead will kill at that velocity for sure. I might trade off a little accuracy for more power for elk but I would be happy with that for deer or black bear.

 

[LME]

I have a .54 woodsrunner that I just finished up recently, and decided yesterday would be the day I’d take it to the range to work up a good accurate charge and sight in, I was able to get cloverleafs at 50 yards after trying many different powder charges and ball patch combos. I found the most accurate charge to be

55 grains 2F Swiss
.530 RB
.020 patch

I tried charges from 55 grains to 100 grains in 5 grain increments but nothing could come even close to the 55 grain charge, so I left it at that and sighted in at 50 and 100 yards (100 yd with shoulders of rear sight at base of the front sight).

It only gives me about 1300 FPS average according to my chronograph, which I’m wondering if it’s adequate for deer and possibly black bear or elk. Does anyone else use this low of a charge in their 54?

That load at the speed you say it is traveling will work well. If I were you I would step up the charge 5 grains at the time and if the only thing that happens is your shots are high it make me think you can get more out of the rifle as far as killing power and maintain accuracy.

 

[leadhoarder]

Forgot to answer the question. Yes, I have used a load that low. I routinely use 55 or 60 grains for hunting paper. I have never hunted game with a load that small but I would not hesitate to do so if I was inside 50 yards.

 

[Rangefogger]

Yeah I tried every load in 5 grain increments from 55 to 100 but the 60 grain group was 3 inches at best and all other groups were 5 inches or more at 50 yards, that would be unacceptable for good shot placement. maybe I’ll try going over 100 grains and see what happens. It’s a 1-70 twist barrel btw.

 

[DCAN]

I wouldn't hesitate to hunt deer with that charge. For bear I'd prefer a bit more snort to the load, but with good shot placement it will work. Elk are a whole different critter. I've seen them dropped with small caliber unmentionables and I've seen them absorb multiple hits from guns that could drop an elephant. Close range, good shot placement, it will work, just have your tracking hat on.
Since I'm about to shoot my .54 Woodsrunner for the first time, can I ask what patch lube you used?

 

[Rangefogger]

I wouldn't hesitate to hunt deer with that charge. For bear I'd prefer a bit more snort to the load, but with good shot placement it will work. Elk are a whole different critter. I've seen them dropped with small caliber unmentionables and I've seen them absorb multiple hits from guns that could drop an elephant. Close range, good shot placement, it will work, just have your tracking hat on.
Since I'm about to shoot my .54 Woodsrunner for the first time, can I ask what patch lube you used?

For the range I use my own concoction. Just Murphy’s oil soap with a bit of windex and ammonia mixed to almost a spit like consistency. Keeps the fouling soft and easy to swab between shots. For hunting I use tracks mink oil.

 

[nchawkeye]

It starts with patches, what do they look like after you shoot them...HIgher charges are harder on patches...You may just need a tighter ball/patch combo or some type wad, nesting, patch between the powder and your current ball/patch combo...

When groups open up with higher charges, you can usually bet a change in patches or larger ball with correct the situation...

 

[leadhoarder]

Sounds like it is time to repeat the test, this time using a different patch material.

 

[Erwan]

It only gives me about 1300 FPS average according to my chronograph, which I’m wondering if it’s adequate for deer and possibly black bear or elk.

Normally it's all OK...
The power of a rifle bullet can be determined by calculating its kinetic energy, which is measured in joules (J).
The formula for calculating the kinetic energy of an object is as follows:

KE = (1/2)mv^2 or 1/2mv²

Where: KE = kinetic energy m = mass of the object v = velocity of the object.
This will give you the kinetic energy of the ball in joules. Remember that the kinetic energy of a bullet can vary depending on the load used and the distance.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I shoot 100 grains 3F Swiss in my Isaac Haines. Very flat trajectory and nearly no sight adjustment needed for shots within normal hunting distance. I have shot it at 200 and need to hold up nearly the entire front sight to get on target.

 

[longcruise]

Yeah I tried every load in 5 grain increments from 55 to 100 but the 60 grain group was 3 inches at best and all other groups were 5 inches or more at 50 yards, that would be unacceptable for good shot placement. maybe I’ll try going over 100 grains and see what happens. It’s a 1-70 twist barrel btw.

I think first up should be, as suggested above, examining the patches. If patches fail accuracy is lost.

The other thing is that group size with any charge can vary randomly making any given charge look like a winner. Parallel to that is the question of how many shots per group? The "experts" at Hornady suggest four five shot groups to verify a charge.

Also, it's a Green Mountain barrel and they are very good but it could possibly use some smoothing which can also tie in with the patch quality.

 

[HSmithTX]

Compare the velocity and energy at 50, 75 and 100 yards using your chronographed 1300 fps against a theoretical 1600 and 1800 fps.

 

[Elfirgnol]

Round balls are very poor shapes ballistically. If you hunt at or around sea level you would be below 1300 fps by 50 yds even with a 1600 to 1700 fps muzzle velocity. Once you drop below the speed of sound( 1100 to 1150 fps depending on temperature) the velocity falls off much slower. 1300 fps might be entirely adequate if you hunt heavy timber. This is where larger bores like .54 to .58 pay off.

 

[Rangefogger]

Thanks for the help, I think the problem could possibly be that I coned the muzzle. I thought I’d give it a try, but for me it seems to have been detrimental to the accuracy. I can’t say that for sure because I coned it upon completing the rifle, but I don’t think I’ll ever try it again. Time to buy a replacement barrel.

 

[French Colonial]

I was able to get cloverleafs at 50 yards after trying many different powder charges and ball patch combos.

. Time to buy a replacement barrel.

You have cloverleafs at 50 yards and you want to replace the barrel?

 

[Rangefogger]

You have cloverleafs at 50 yards and you want to replace the barrel?

Yeah, I want to get more power for longer shots. Worth a try, I think.

 

[nchawkeye]

Makes sense, buy a new barrel without knowing what the patches look like.....

 

[Rangefogger]

Makes sense, buy a new barrel without knowing what the patches look like.....

suppose I should have stated that checked the patches yesterday when I went back to the range, no tear through, also tried various charges, and patch/ball combos again but still have the same result as last time. I just want to see if there’s a difference in accuracy with a barrel that hasn’t been coned. Plus I can always use my current barrel for a new from plank build, after I have it re bored and rifled if possible or I may choose to make it a smooth bore.

 

[French Colonial]

suppose I should have stated that checked the patches yesterday when I went back to the range, no tear through, also tried various charges, and patch/ball combos again but still have the same result as last time. I just want to see if there’s a difference in accuracy with a barrel that hasn’t been coned. Plus I can always use my current barrel for a new from plank build, after I have it re bored and rifled if possible or I may choose to make it a smooth bore.

I am still not sure why you think coning ruined that barrel, most guys would be tickled with cloverleafs at 50 yards. I hope your new barrel shoots as well.