• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

54 Lymen GPR Hawken rock lock kit

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

eaglesnester

40 Cal.
Joined
Sep 25, 2009
Messages
269
Reaction score
1
Anybody on the net built one of these rifles? This is my first build and was wondering if there are any tips that will make the build easier with fewer screwups?
Then there is the question of loads, patch. I figure about 90gr Goex 2F aught to just about do it? How accurate is the average 54 cal flinter Lyman GPR.
 
I have built about 12-13 gpr kits. Theres several things you can do to make the gun better or look better too. First is chuck the stock vent line and use an RMC liner. Next you will have to remove around 1/4-1/2 inch from the belly of the stock and take out the fish belly and make it flat, then draw file the barrel and remove stamping if desired, round off the forearm a bit, if you get really crazy lengthen out the wrist are of the stock and thin out the back area to not make it so wide. Other then that its an easy kit to put together. You can assemble the whole gun and finish it with out doing any of the above as well or save it for a later project down the road. The steel part specifically the butt plate and trigger guard will need to be filed or ground down smooth many cast marks, and the nose cap is usually round too. Hope this helps
 
Good choice on a kit, I have owned several of them & they are the Best Buy for the Buck, IMHO in a low priced manufactured flintlock.

The rifle is already built, this is an Assembly. Basic hand tools & some sand paper & browning & finish & 16 hrs on a kitchen table & you can bee shooting it.

I used 65 grains of 2F in all of mine with a .535 ball & a .015 pillow ticking patch for target, 75 grains for deer hunting. Amazing groups can be had with peep sights & sand bags on a bench. For just plinking & shooting pop cans, .530 ball will load easier.

I would keep it original, so when you upgrade to something else & actually want to build a rifle from parts, you have a better chance of getting more of your investment back. Nutherwords don't put $900. more in a $350 rifle, it will still be a $350 rifle. :hmm:

That being said, great lil rifle. :thumbsup: Enjoy

Keith Lisle
 
Here's an insight about what's involved in the build-

I've built several from kits, but really want a lefty flinter. Trouble is, they don't provide one in a kit.

No prob.

I'll buy the finished gun and go to work on it, reshaping the stock and refinishing the metalwork. Time and effort will be the same as a kit, with results the same. Sure, I'll spend a little more than a kit but other than that, the kits are pretty darned close to finished too.
 
Opened the box and right away I could see that this is a kit that anybody that can chew gun and walk at the same time can build. The kit is basically nothing more than an assembly project with a little sanding, (well a lot of sanding actually). All of the in-letting on every part has been done as well as all the screw holes have been drilled. So it goes like this, assemble, sand, finish (stain wood) brown metal parts or leave in the white, and use a little true oil on the stock and yur done with a very nice rifle.

Cheers & tighter Groups: Eaglesnester
 
I am currently working on my first GPR kit. First tip is that wood comes off a lot easier than it goes back. If you use a dremel, do so judiciously. Like many have said I removed some of the fish belly but go slow, hard to keep the lines straight. I also did some reshaping on the wrist to make it a little thinner and flow better. I cut down the wood at the trigger to make it smooth and not so deeply inletted.

I used a draw file to remove the stamping on the barrel only leaving the serial number. Now I am in the process of filing and cleaning up the metal trigger guards and butt plate.

There is as little or as much work as you would like. Take your time and go slow then do a lot of sanding with fine sandpaper. If you get frustrated, stop and try another day. Tons of great information from some very friendly people here.

Thanks for the liner tip 2 Tall.
 
Oh sorry I forgot, I found a detail sander with the small 2 inch or so triangle head to be worth every cent as far as saving some time rough sanding.
 
Back
Top