*%#@%%#@*** !!!

[hobbles]

ahhh mannn,, Yes I am usin em with a 490 round ball,, I never said that,,

 

[hobbles]

Try poking the patch into the bore with your finger (small impression) before loading the ball,

hmm, that;s interestin,, I will have to try that,,

 

[Brittany1]

The first couple look OK, or is it just my eyes? Then the rest look burned. Is there something to that? Also, would 2f be better than 3f? Don't know, just thinking.

 

Someone here mentioned the use of a small quantity of paper wasp nest to help solve the problem. While that is a good idea and may solve your problem, be very careful with that nesting material. It has a reputation for catching in the bore and smoldering. You have got to swab between loadings to ensure that nesting material is completely removed or else there could be a flash over. :imo:

 

[Bob J]

I have used Ox-Yoke OILED .015 patches with 80 grains of triple f Goex in my .50; never bothered to recover a patch but they must of been OK because it would put 3 shot groups touching at 50 yds. May be its the Pyrodex?

 

[Bob J]

[/quote]

Expect them to ask why you are measuring the thickness, I tell them that I have to, I use extreamly short needles when sewing... :winking:

[/quote]

:crackup: :crackup: Musketman, I'm gonna have to head to the fabric Dept. of Wally World with micrometer in hand just to have them ask me why so I can tell 'em about the short needles! :haha:

 

[SCATTERSHOT]

I'm sure you know this already, but if you buy fabric at the store it will have sizing in it. You need to wash it before you use it for patches.

 

[Old40Rod]

You don't need no STEENKEEN Wonder Wads! :blah:
I shot 0.015s outta my .50 GPR with "P" Pyro before I switched to Goex. I always used pillow ticking patches and never had that problem. Stop by Wally World and pick up a yard or 2 of their all cotton ticking (measure thickness first). Its cheap and works well for me anyways.

Life is too short and shootin' time too valuable to spend trying to wring the life out of a bunch of junk patches if you are sure you don't have a barrel problem. Use them to make little eye covers for your cat.

 

[Rat]

Well one thing about them STEEEEKIN wonder wads, it will give him a quick fix until he finds out what's really going on. But then he may become spoiled by the reduced fouling and possibly an increase in accuracy, even with a load that does not shred the patches. I use them wonderful wads in everything, ifin I needs them or not!

:yakyak:

Man I need to buy some stock in the Wonder company.

At any rate it will tell you right off the bat if the damage is being done before or after loading, and it will stop the patch from shredding and burning, regardless of why that's happening...which will give you normal accuracy at least until you can get some "real" powder and find a better lube, even though Wonder Lube 1000+ seems to work good for me. One of these days I'll cook up some snot though.

Rat

 

[Old40Rod]

I use them wonderful wads in everything, ifin I needs them or not!

:master:

 

[hobbles]

you are sure you don't have a barrel problem

mornin,, it's a new barrel I got maybe 300 or 400 shots though it,, it's a 1 in 66 twist from T/C.
I am goin down the list and answerin all these, You guys are very helpfull,, and I thank you all,,

 

[hobbles]

be very careful with that lnesting materia. It has a reputation for catching in the bore and smoldering. You have got to swab between loadings to ensure that nesting material is completely removed or else there could be a flash over.

AHHH !! I didn't think of that,, I have found the lnesting material layin on the ground,, smokin,, but the patch was 0k,,
I want my wonder wads,,,

 

[hobbles]

recover a patch but they must of been OK because it would put 3 shot groups touching at 50 yds.
this is what I KEEP commin up with,,, I'm hopin it's the patchs,,

 

[BLAHMAN]

recover a patch but they must of been OK because it would put 3 shot groups touching at 50 yds.
this is what I KEEP commin up with,,, I'm hopin it's the patchs,,

That looks like one of my groups from about 5 feet away!


Actually, after lookin at your patches (did you mention that was a replacement barrel or is it the original?) I would suspect that you may have a barrel problem?

If that is a new barrel, the edges of the lands may be so crisp that they are actaully sharp, and you may be putting wee bity slices into your patches...you may be from the looks of the patches shot after the first round.

Why not take some steel wool (0000) and stroke your bore with it to smooth out any sharpness on the lands. Could'nt hurt.

Why not order some black powder.....can ya order some from a source online? I'm not sure if the BP can be shipped economically for just one can.

If that barrel is original (I can't remember if you said as much, I'll peruse the threads) then I'm really wondering what the problem could be. I take it you don't swab between shots? Niether do I, hmmmmmm.....this is a hard one!

 

[hobbles]

If that is a new barrel, the edges of the lands may be so crisp that they are actaully sharp, and you may be putting wee bity slices into your patches...you may be from the looks of the patches shot after the first round.

It's a new barrel from T/C custom shop,, and I have been wonderin bout the barrel bein sharp, I ran a dry patch and even a pice of cotton dowh it to sea if anything catches in the barrel, nothin,,, I would hate to ruin the NEW barrel,, But that has been on my mind,,

 

[BLAHMAN]

Well, you can't. All that the steel wool will do is dull the edges of the lands...that's all. That little bit of steel wool can't destroy the rifling in the barrel...that barrel's probably a lot harder than the steel wool.

There is a misconception that if a barrel is brand new, it must be good, well, yeah, that's part right. But, don't forget, these things are production pieces and they need to be made with as little effort as possible to get as much return as possible.

In other words, that barrel is button rifled with a broach, it may have been the first in a batch run or the middle or the last. I bet the barrel wasn't lapped, after it was rifled. I suspect it was inspected, got 'Ok'd' then shipped out.

Go ahead and take some steel wool and run it up and down the barrel....it can't hurt.

I've seen what you've got in action, I watched a fella try to shoot with a GPR and had to stand about 10 feet to hit his target, and it was a pitiful group at best. We found his patches and they looked like yours. We ran some steel wool up and down the barrel and things improved...greatly so.

 

[hobbles]

Well,, I guess I better try it,, I hate to think I bought a club,,,

 

[sneakon]

I am usin Pyrodex 3-f P

I'm no expert, but I'd try a different powder in a .50 cal rifle. Pyrodex RS or Select. Real blackpowder 2F whenever you find it.

 

Well,, I guess I better try it,, I hate to think I bought a club,,,

Well I doubt thet it will turn out to be a "club" if yore new barrel came from the TC custom shop. :haha:

I use only Green Mountain barrels on the rifles I build, but I do "lap" them with steel-wool. I can re-use the patchs picked up off the ground, and I don't use Wonder Wads.

'Bout the only difference is, I don't use commercial pre-cut (and pre-lubed) patchs. I prefer .018-.020 pillow ticking, and either "spit", or, my bear oil/bee's wax mix for lube. I also shoot Goex BP "only"!!

I really don't understand why some of the fella's "need" Wonder Wads, but if they like'm thet's fine with me (I ain't pay'n for'em :haha

One last thot,......... are you cast'n yore roundballs out of wheel-weight lead?????

YMHS
rollingb

 

[hobbles]

Hi all, I just got back,, I went over to a friends house and he had a big welding job,, So I helped him for a while,, I did the welding and he did the cuttin,, After 2 hours we talked bout the pay,, He said he wanted me to help him with the job and would pay me what I was worth,, so I quit,, I won't work for that,,,,

rollingb
I buy Hornady 490 balls,,