A New surprise issue for an old flint shooter

[Larry (Omaha)]

Been shooting flint rifles since the 70s and yesterday tried out my new 1803 Harpers Ferry Build. I am no expert, but do have a little knowledge under my belt about those flintlocks.
My build was made from a Walnut blank using the Davis HF 1803 lock with and a 54 cal Rice HF barrel. I always use good black English flints. Now to the issue:
First try....... Bang bang bang bang for about 6 to eight shots. Then, I am getting some no sparks or very little sparks and no ignition. I felt the flint and it is still somewhat sharp, but I knap it and still very little sparks. Put in a new flint and bang bang bang for another 6 or so shots, then again no go. The frizzen is very similar to my Siler locks for apperance and hardness. I don't have a way to test real true hardness, just going by the surface appearance. I did thin the mainspring a little to help the trigger pull, but think the energy required to draw the hammer back to be sufficient. I don't want to eat flints or have a harder trigger pull, but is my only choice to get another mainspring or frizzen???"

PS. Frizzen flip/spring tension seems OK there

Larry

 

[deerstalkert]

alcohol scrubbing flint and frizzen help?

 

[Grenadier1758]

My 1803 is from Rifle Shoppe parts, but the Davis lock should be similar. Historically, the 1803 was known to be a flint basher. So, it is not surprising that you only get a few good ignition from your flint. You should find benefit from putting a wedge of leather under the rear edge of the flint so the flint scrapes the frizzen rather than stricking it directly.

Sometimes a small sliver of the front of the double throat hammer needs to be removed and welded back together.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

alcohol scrubbing flint and frizzen help?

True, thanks for the reminder. My Siler locks seems to work even when fouled some.
Thanks
Larry

 

[Pete G]

lock geometry is not good

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

lock geometry is not good

Pete,
Early on in my shooting muzzleloaders I had a factory HF. The geometry on that was horrible. It spaked very well, but none of the sparks hit the pan. I usually don't like to get rid of guns, but that one went down the road.
This Davis geometry is much better.
Larry

 

[PathfinderNC]

Try flipping the flint upside down. I had a similar issue with a new L& R lock and it solved the problem.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Been shooting flint rifles since the 70s and yesterday tried out my new 1803 Harpers Ferry Build. I am no expert, but do have a little knowledge under my belt about those flintlocks.
My build was made from a Walnut blank using the Davis HF 1803 lock with and a 54 cal Rice HF barrel. I always use good black English flints. Now to the issue:
First try....... Bang bang bang bang for about 6 to eight shots. Then, I am getting some no sparks or very little sparks and no ignition. I felt the flint and it is still somewhat sharp, but I knap it and still very little sparks. Put in a new flint and bang bang bang for another 6 or so shots, then again no go. The frizzen is very similar to my Siler locks for apperance and hardness. I don't have a way to test real true hardness, just going by the surface appearance. I did thin the mainspring a little to help the trigger pull, but think the energy required to draw the hammer back to be sufficient. I don't want to eat flints or have a harder trigger pull, but is my only choice to get another mainspring or frizzen???"

PS. Frizzen flip/spring tension seems OK there

Larry

Turn the flint over. Some locks like wedge up, some wedge down, depending on the throw angle. I also sharpen my flint at least every 3 shots. Semper Fi.

 

[OldSmoky1967]

Been shooting flint rifles since the 70s and yesterday tried out my new 1803 Harpers Ferry Build. I am no expert, but do have a little knowledge under my belt about those flintlocks.
My build was made from a Walnut blank using the Davis HF 1803 lock with and a 54 cal Rice HF barrel. I always use good black English flints. Now to the issue:
First try....... Bang bang bang bang for about 6 to eight shots. Then, I am getting some no sparks or very little sparks and no ignition. I felt the flint and it is still somewhat sharp, but I knap it and still very little sparks. Put in a new flint and bang bang bang for another 6 or so shots, then again no go. The frizzen is very similar to my Siler locks for apperance and hardness. I don't have a way to test real true hardness, just going by the surface appearance. I did thin the mainspring a little to help the trigger pull, but think the energy required to draw the hammer back to be sufficient. I don't want to eat flints or have a harder trigger pull, but is my only choice to get another mainspring or frizzen???"

PS. Frizzen flip/spring tension seems OK there

Larry

Remove frizzen spring and try it that way for 10 shots or so... That spring is only need to keep it closed so you don't lose your priming powder. IF the hard ness is right it will ignite primer every time. I suspect frizzen spring is too stiff and it is eating flints...

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Remove frizzen spring and try it that way for 10 shots or so... That spring is only need to keep it closed so you don't lose your priming powder. IF the hard ness is right it will ignite primer every time. I suspect frizzen spring is too stiff and it is eating flints...

Thanks, but compared to my other flintlocks this F spring is probably the weakest one I have. It is not eating flints.
When the sharpest new flint edge has dulled some (still good enough for my other locks) it stops making adequate sparks. Even if I knapp the flint
Larry

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Turn the flint over. Some locks like wedge up, some wedge down, depending on the throw angle. I also sharpen my flint at least every 3 shots. Semper Fi.

View attachment 214708

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Thanks, but the flint angle now is a making downward glancing stroke. If I flip the flint over it will be striking the frizzen perpendicular.
Larry

 

[bronko220002]

An old friend, Cayugad, RIP, showed me a little trick to knap your flint. Take a #10 common nail, cut off the point and file a little notch on the end. Then placing it along the edge of the flint strike it with your short starter. Works great. I keep it in my field tool bag.

 

[rchas]

how old is the lock and how often are you shooting that rifle? Maybe you have worn through case hardening on the frizzen.

 

[French Colonial]

An old friend, Cayugad, RIP, showed me a little trick to knap your flint. Take a #10 common nail, cut off the point and file a little notch on the end. Then placing it along the edge of the flint strike it with your short starter. Works great.

I have one of those in every shooting bag except I make mine out of brass rod.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

how old is the lock and how often are you shooting that rifle? Maybe you have worn through case hardening on the frizzen.

Brand new lock. The frizzen should be hardened all the way through. This is the first time out with the lock.
Larry

 

[Garbear34]

Turn the flint over. Some locks like wedge up, some wedge down, depending on the throw angle. I also sharpen my flint at least every 3 shots. Semper Fi.

View attachment 214708

Thank you. I just got my first flintlock. I'm in the process of collecting parts for a trade gun build

 

[springfield art]

True, thanks for the reminder. My Siler locks seems to work even when fouled some.
Thanks
Larry

Lotsa guys wipe between shots, the frizzen face.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Lotsa guys wipe between shots, the frizzen face.

I agree! Rock tight, clean & sharp, frizzen clean. Good lock and it will go boom.
Larry

 

[Relic shooter]

An old friend, Cayugad, RIP, showed me a little trick to knap your flint. Take a #10 common nail, cut off the point and file a little notch on the end. Then placing it along the edge of the flint strike it with your short starter. Works great. I keep it in my field tool bag.

Great idea Bronko !
I've used a similar idea for a flint knapper with a 3" long piece of brass rod. I chucked one end of the rod in a drill & use a three-corner file to cut a shallow 90 degree notch in tip of the other end. The shallow notch removes just enough off the face of the flint to leave a razor edge with a few taps of my short starter. No risk of sparks with brass.. I flattened the upper end of my knapper rod & drilled a hole in it so it hangs from a leather thong & rests my shooting bag's patch knife sheath.
Relic shooter