A question for my fellow Hunters

[Old Sparky]

. So I've noticed a pattern over the years regarding the first shot or two when you first get the Flintlock out after storage. My ignition is always for crap until I get the oil and whatnot blown out of there. So what do you do at 5:00 a.m. when you're going hunting and you don't want to just load an oily gun and you know that a couple of dry swabs is not going to cut it? What I always did with my inline was fire couple of shots and then just load it for hunting with no worries about corrosion. I don't think that would work so well with the flintlock. So I would love to hear your hunting loading rituals. It would help me out, thanks in advance for any response

 

[Daveboone]

A day or so ahead, thoroughly swab out the barrel and dry fire a few primers. I will then usually make one last swab. I have never had a problem/concern with that routine. I no longer will wait until the night before though. When I shot an inline (with 777), I had a thoroughly clogged ignition channel. and had a very difficult time clearing it.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

. So I've noticed a pattern over the years regarding the first shot or two when you first get the gun out after storage. My ignition is always for manure until I get the oil and whatnot blown out of there. So what do you do at 5:00 a.m. when you're going hunting and you don't want to just load an oily gun and you know that a couple of dry swabs is not going to cut it? What I always did with my inline was fire couple of shots and then just load it for hunting with no worries about corrosion. I don't think that would work so well with the flintlock. So I would love to hear your hunting loading rituals. It would help me out, thanks in advance for any response

After cleaning I have been storing my guns muzzle down. An action that I learned about here on the forum. Following this protocol I have enjoyed instantaneous ignition ever since - even with a problematic caplock Hawken that was prone to developing a crud cap just under the nipple that required the nipple to be pulled prior to hunting. Give this a try and report back.

 

[Semisane]

I do either one or the other. Both work fine.

1. Swab the oiled bore with a very wet alcohol patch, pumping the rod to blow alcohol out of the nipple/flash hole. Then a dry patch or two.
2. Give the bore a blast of Carb Cleaner, followed by a dry patch.

 

[Stykbow]

I think I’d cut way back on the amount of oil I was using. I know some folks disagree, but if you’re using so much it pools in the bottom of the barrel it’s too much. Then you could swab with a patch or two before loading and be good to go.

 

[Old Sparky]

I think I’d cut way back on the amount of oil I was using. I know some folks disagree, but if you’re using so much it pools in the bottom of the barrel it’s too much. Then you could swab with a patch or two before loading and be good to go.

That's the thing it looks dry but there is some sort of phenomenon occurring with a slight bit of oil that might be in the flash hole I guess.

 

[Old Sparky]

I do either one or the other. Both work fine.

1. Swab the oiled bore with a very wet alcohol patch, pumping the rod to blow alcohol out of the nipple/flash hole. Then a dry patch or two.
2. Give the bore a blast of Carb Cleaner, followed by a dry patch.

Winner winner chicken dinner

 

[appalichian hunter]

The day before the opener I will swab the bore with an alcohol patch a few times wipe the bore with a clean dry patch, replace the flint with a new one, wipe the frizzen, pan and new flint with alcohol patch and then wipe with a clean dry patch, check for spark run another dry patch in the bore and load the rifle., once in the area I will hunt pick the vent and prime, With a percussion pretty much the same except pick the vent before and after loading. That way once I get to the area, I am hunting all I have to do is prime the gun or put a cap on it. Worked for years and goes bang.

 

[Rancocas]

The day before the opener I will swab the bore with an alcohol patch a few times wipe the bore with a clean dry patch, replace the flint with a new one, wipe the frizzen, pan and new flint with alcohol patch and then wipe with a clean dry patch, check for spark run another dry patch in the bore and load the rifle., once in the area I will hunt pick the vent and prime, With a percussion pretty much the same except pick the vent before and after loading. That way once I get to the area, I am hunting all I have to do is prime the gun or put a cap on it. Worked for years and goes bang.

I do just about the same thing.

 

[azmntman]

I am gonna start with flint this season and plan to do the same thing I do with caplocks. Fire a squib load into a tree, reload, pick good and hunt. 8% humidity last I checked. Not gonna be a problem for me to prime and shoot, and when I sit under the tree to rest the shade will work much better than some of ya'all describe.

But since ya asked and now I'm worried I gotta start planning. Will take the gun wood cutting, shoot it, cut a load and then see if I am right. I better be!

 

[Old Sparky]

Thanks for the advice the idea of using alcohol never occurred to me. I definitely like the brake cleaner thing also.

 

[Mike in FL]

Swab with alcohol the day before. Pour some down the barrel and flush out through flash hole with tight patch. Dump excess. Dry with patch, forcing air through flash hole. Load except for priming. Case the gun for travel and prime it upon arrival. Been doing that for 50 years.

 

[appalichian hunter]

I am gonna start with flint this season and plan to do the same thing I do with caplocks. Fire a squib load into a tree, reload, pick good and hunt. 8% humidity last I checked. Not gonna be a problem for me to prime and shoot, and when I sit under the tree to rest the shade will work much better than some of ya'all describe.

But since ya asked and now I'm worried I gotta start planning. Will take the gun wood cutting, shoot it, cut a load and then see if I am right. I better be!

WHY MAKE A MORE NOISE IN THE AREA YOU'RE HUNTING THAN NECESSARY TO GET TO THE SPOT YOU WILL HUNT, I HAVE ABOUT A 1/4 MILE HIKE TO MY STAND FROM WHERE I PARK THE TRUCK AND DONT LIKE IT IF I SNAP A TWIG ON MY IN. sorry about the caps.

 

[azmntman]

I shoot at camp. Hunt at least 1/2 mile v away. Never a problem

 

[Caterpillar Hunter]

First of all, when I'm finished cleaning my rifle I swab the bore with Barricade Rust Protection (not Barricade Gun Oil) . Whatever this stuff is, it dries to a non-oily "film". It works. When I'm ready to hunt, I run a dry patch down the bore before loading. Sometimes I run half sheet of a Baby Wipe down the bore and then a dry cleaning patch. There is no oil or grease to remove because the bore is already dry. The Baby Wipe then cleans off the frizzen face and flint. I might clean out the touch hole with a pipe cleaner or round toothpick. This all takes maybe a minute and there's no need for a "test shot".

 

[oldwood]

I store my rifle muzzle down all the time after cleaning. When going out to use it , run a dry cleaning patch down to the breech , load normally for the hunt or target shoot and go. No fouling shot. When using percussion , same thing , clean , store muzzle down , and same treatment as w/ flinter. Might pop a cap for grins to clear the nipple. Haven't used percussion in 40 years.

 

[D.Summers]

Yeah, every response is right. Run a patch down the barrel each time before you take her out to shoot! I don't store my guns bore down, but I will do that thirty minutes before I go out, if I have time. Sometimes it's a bit spontaneous when I want to shoot! But always a dry patch down the bore before heading out!

 

[4119Bill]

I use alcohol soaked patch then a dry one.
Use a second alcohol patch to wipe the pan and frizzen. I carry a baggie of them with me just in case it a damp day and the pan gets gummy. It has always went off.

 

[Paul-in-PA]

Good comments about clean dry and/or alcohol patches. But I also pick the vent hole every time when hunting, before priming or capping.

 

[Art Caputo]

For decades I have a method that has proved to be effective with producing 1st shot results from a cleaned and lubed(WD40 or Barricade) that are consistent/accurate with subsequent shots from a fouled barrel. This has worked with both percussion and flintlock rifles. Prior to the hunt or shooting session I will swab the barrel/breach with a patch or two of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. I will also squirt a bit of IPA in the flash channel. I’ll then run a dry patch or two down the barrel and a pipe cleaner and or compressed air to dry the flash channel. The IPA dries quickly. With my percussion rifles, I always fire a cap and check for clearance prior to the first load.