A question of possible rust

[Daryl Crawford]

Dear Abby,
A question that may be foolish to the old hats here. I'm only about 7 months in to having my first full stock fowler. I love it, have taken pheasant with it, am working up round ball and turkey loads for it.
My question is, when cleaning, I pour water down the barrel (with a plugged touch hole) and scrub with raw wool on a tow worm. Occasionally, water misses the muzzle and runs down the edge of the barrel. While I dry the weapon well when done, use ballistol to wipe it all down inside the barrel, and even along the barrel/stock edge, and if storing for any length of time I use olive oil. Do I need to unpin the barrel and remove it regularly to make sure no water got under and is causing rust?
If so, I'm not sure I trust myself to do it. I thought that I might take the gun once a year/every other year to Dixon's for a work over and ask them to unpin the barrel. I need some advice.
Signed,
Worried about rust under the barrel of my full stock

 

[Phil Coffins]

You can tightly wrap a piece of cloth around the barrel at the muzzle to minimize the amount of water that can get past you. As to rust, I had never had a problem with it till I tried Ballistol. I have no dog in the fight about it’s value but with over 50 years of muzzle loading and using all types of oils the first time I got a rusty bore is when I tried Ballistol.
Don‘t let removing the pins to dismount the barrel stand in your way, be careful and use proper tools and it’s easy. Then wax the underside before putting it back.

 

[bang]

On rifles that don't have a simple barrel wedge I wax the wood and apply light coat of grease to the bottom of the barrel then assemble. This way moisture won't collect in the trapped space and I only pull the barrel once a year to check it and reapply.

 

[Erwan]

When cleaning a piece of cloth is also turned at the muzzle...
I use Ront Production water repellent marine grease between the barrel and the wood and I disassemble the rifle once or twice a year for changing the grease after removing the old one and no rust...

 

[tallpine]

You can take a small strip of cling wrap, like for wrapping up leftovers and seal around the muzzle / stock area. Also set your rifle at a angle to divert the flow of water away from the muzzle. I always gease my barrels with Rig grease before installing. Never had a problem with rust.

 

[Carbon 6]

If I hose the barrel down after cleaning with G96 it goes anywhere that water could. If you take it apart coat the underside with beeswax, then forget about it for 20 years.
Even if you get surface rust under the barrel, what's the harm if you can't see it ?

 

[hanshi]

Dear Reader,
All you need to remove a pinned barrel is a proper size nail punch, a screwdriver and a bit of care. Remove the pins the same direction every time and keep them in order of location - I use a piece of masking tape to hold them. I only remove the barrels every 2-3 years. They all have been greased where they meet the stock, or at least waxed. Basically it's not a big deal, even after coming in from a hunt in the rain. I have an old hair dryer I bought years ago for $2 that I use if I think anything needs to be dried.

 

[ppg1949]

When waxing the bottom of the barrel, would you use a car wax or something else?

 

[Walkingeagle]

I use deer tallow.
Walk

 

[Grenadier1758]

When waxing the bottom of the barrel, would you use a car wax or something else?

Car wax (but without abrasive cleaners), Johnson's Paste Wax, Renaissance Wax, bee's wax and most waxes will work.

 

[ppg1949]

Car wax (but without abrasive cleaners), Johnson's Paste Wax, Renaissance Wax, bee's wax and most waxes will work.

Thanks much

 

[Daryl Crawford]

So regular nail punch will work to tap the pins out? Ok, what else shold I know? For years I used TC and Investarm, both with single brass wedges and removable barrels. I'm in new territory friends.

 

[Grenadier1758]

You need a 1/16" pin punch to take the pins out. A nail punch is tapered and will mar the wood around the pin.

 

[Daryl Crawford]

I can make one out of a nail if you think that would work.

 

[Grenadier1758]

If it has parallel sides with a flat base to push the pins out.

 

[rp77469]

Not all pins are round. I have a one flinter that has tapered pins, so you really have to take a close look to see which side is larger than the other before you start removing them, and remove them in the correct direction, and don't mix up which goes where.

 

[Artie Peltier]

Car wax (but without abrasive cleaners), Johnson's Paste Wax, Renaissance Wax, bee's wax and most waxes will work.

After reading about Renaissance Wax here I purchased some and have been using it. i love it and use it on all my muzzleloaders and firearms. Also great on wood too. Plus a little goes a long way. Art

 

[Carbon 6]

So regular nail punch will work to tap the pins out? Ok, what else shold I know? For years I used TC and Investarm, both with single brass wedges and removable barrels. I'm in new territory friends.

Make sure you punch them out backwards.
Meaning if they were put in from right to left, then you need to punch them out from left to right. Otherwise you can damage or cause wear to the pins or stock.
Also, be very gentle when separating the barrel from the forestock.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Unless you're dunking that thing in a stream, you really don't need to worry about minimal amounts of rust causing problems.
Think about it.....a lot of people brown their barrels..... that's rust.
Wax under the barrel is a good thing, but don't lose sleep over it.

 

[David Coulter]

I appreciate all the questions and answers in this thread. I’m building my first fowler and this is helpful. Thanks, dc