Accidental Discharge Need Help

[Kapow]

No they didnt say much at all which is not unexpected given they cant see the rifle, but I did pack the trigger out so that there was no contact between the trigger bars and the lock.

In trying to replicate what happened in the field, the above was how I got the cap to fire, so made the assumption that it was the cause.

 

[54ball]

If the set triggers are adjusted too fine( little screw between the triggers too tight) the rifle could fire just by looking at it wrong.

It could be a combination of problems, set too tight, fly, lock too tight in mortice and grime or corrosion.

I would back off the set screw. Clean and inspect the lock. I would pay attention to the fly , making sure it moves freely. I would also check the tumbler on the lock for flaws like broken or worn notches. I would check the set triggers for obvious flaws. Lastly check the inlets both trigger and lock for any points of bind.

After a clean adjust and inspection and you still have a problem, then most likely you have a manufacturing flaw.

Halfcock on A GPR is very close to the nipple. I find it impossible to cap on halfcock. So that's not a flaw on your rifle.

IMHO the cap blocker thingy tube is a gimmick and a gadget and too much to fool with in the real world. I think it would get in the way and possibly lead to complacency. But hey, that's just me and my opinion.

P.S. This is very important check the sear spring. Make sure it's not binding or broken.

 

[jethro224]

I have been in touch with Lyman over this and they have agreed to send me a free new lock to compare with my current one and see if that is the problem. Not feasible to send the rifle back to them as requested so I am satisfied that this is about all they can do. Itll be interesting to have a new one to compare to & I'll keep you up to speed with it.

Anyone who owns a percussion Lyman is crazy if they haven't done a safety test with it. Try capping the rifle and putting the hammer on half cock.

First check & see how much clearance is between the cap and hammer face. It should be a reasonable amount. Second, pull the hammer back about half way or as far as possible before engaging full cock and let it fly forward with a cap on the nipple. Do it several times and make sure the cap does not fire.

Peace of mind for you and me...

I replied before to your other thread. Here is part of what I said there;

BUT the fly has a little bitty flat spot on the very tip. If you pull the hammer back just far enough that the nose of the sear is on that flat spot but has not yet engaged full-cock, and then release the hammer... YES THE LOCK WILL FIRE!

That flat spot is pretty small and it's not likely but it is possible that the hammer could be pulled back just so and dropped all the way to the nipple with no trigger contact. That is what I suspect happened to you.
I don't know if this makes you feel any more comfortable but hope it helps you understand how your lock works.

Your new free replacement lock will work exactly the same way. :surrender:

 

[Kapow]

In that case I would consider it a serious design flaw that needs to be corrected. There should be no way that the hammer can contact the cap at half cock. On my rifle it does and I believe that the hammer got snagged and pulled back just a small amount, then fell forward and contacted the cap before the fly could engage.

If this does happen with the new lock I will have to drill or grind the hammer face and shorten the nipple. Even then I think I will employ some type of safety mechanism while hunting. Plan B is go to flintlock.

It's a shame because I have really been enjoying this rifle.

 

[Kapow]

Does anyone use an L&R replacement lock on their GPR? Is there any difference in the gap between the hammer & nipple compared to the Lyman lock?

 

[jethro224]

In that case I would consider it a serious design flaw that needs to be corrected. There should be no way that the hammer can contact the cap at half cock. On my rifle it does and I believe that the hammer got snagged and pulled back just a small amount, then fell forward and contacted the cap before the fly could engage.

If this does happen with the new lock I will have to drill or grind the hammer face and shorten the nipple. Even then I think I will employ some type of safety mechanism while hunting. Plan B is go to flintlock.

It's a shame because I have really been enjoying this rifle.

In your earlier post you suggested people pull their hammers back to almost full cock and let them fly forward. This is not a good idea. It can damage your lock!
And, as I have said, at just the right degree, the lock will fire!
It's not a design flaw, it's just the way the lock works. You can put your Chevy in neutral, rev the engine to 6000 RPM, and then shift into Drive too. But you're not supposed to!!! Don't do it!!!

If your hammer does contact the capped nipple when at rest in the half-cock position(which you should be able to determine without letting the hammer fly forward) then you DO have a problem with your rifle! And it needs attention!
I just don't think the problem is with the lock. It could be any number of things from a too-tall nipple, crud under the nipple not allowing it to be fully seated, barrel inlet too shallow, lock inlet too low, ... :idunno: hard to say from half-way around the world. If we were closer I'd offer to look at it. Good luck figuring out the true root cause of the problem.

Sorry, I don't know if the half-cock is higher on the L&R replacement lock. :idunno: