Accidently Bought a Rifle

[rowdyjoe]

I placed a really low bid for a rifle expecting to be out-bid really quick but ....Surprise ....I won! It's a CVA Hawken in .50 Cal. It has some warts but, looks good over all. It should suit me well as a first rifle.
Now I need to find accessories and bullets/balls.

 

[Zonie]

Congratulations.

Hopefully the bore is in good or salvageable condition. If it is, it should be a very accurate rifle after you've figured out which ball/patch/lube/powder load, it likes.

 

[rowdyjoe]

Seller says the rifling looks good but, no pics of the it. Not sure of the twist but, odds are it's 1:48. If not, I'll just shoot patched balls. It was very hard to pass up for the price.

Pictures of the important parts.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AlRP8fVClrIXeJhXBemzyIqxKxU

 

[Mr. Troll]

Basically had the same thing happen to me. Low bid, and for some reason, it worked...now I have an early Hawken, pre warning barrel, plain case hardened lock and hammer. The fly was stuck and the tip of the sear broken off. Replaced the lock and now it shoots 1" groups with 70 gr 3F and a .015 patch....

 

[rowdyjoe]

Yeah buddy. That's what I like to hear. I've got my fingers crossed that mine will turn out the same.

Just got notice that it's been shipped priority mail. Tracking is not active yet but, I expect delivery sometime next week.

 

[azmntman]

I did the same thing years ago. BEST shooter I have so far :grin: . 1-2" at 90 yds. BUT I have a lock or trigger issue going on. Need to meet up with a guy that can diagnos it fer me. Mine was $150.00 and in REAL nice shape.

Per the pics yers is about a duplicate

 

[rowdyjoe]

Thanks for the reply. Nice to know I'm not the only one to score a nice rifle by "accident".

I'm really looking forward to learning to shoot my inadvertent prize. Glad to know these will shoot well if the shooter is capable.

The price for mine was only $5 more than yours.

 

[William O.]

The 1/48 twist rate will shoot RB quite well and isn't a "compromise" made to handle both conical and PRB as so often is rumored. The depth of the rifling will determine if it will stabilize a lead conical bullet or not. I'd stick with RB no matter what the rate of twist is and have fun with it. You got a great deal on it too.

 

[rowdyjoe]

That's good news. Thanks. I'm sure it will be fun whether it drives tacks or not.

 

[rowdyjoe]

My .50 Cal. CVA Hawken arrived this afternoon with the postman and I am a very happy shooter.
It looks better in person than in the pictures. Barrel is well blued and I haven't found a mark on the stock yet. However, the gun does have a few warts.

- the set trigger does not work but, the front trigger will fire it with no problem. Trigger pull is a bit stiff but, it will work. I could sure use a parts breakdown of this assembly. If you have one or know of one, please post the link.

- the head of the bolster screw is stripped so, getting it out will be a chore. I'm afraid the nipple is frozen too but, won't be able to tell for sure until my nipple wrench arrives in the mail.

-the bore was rusty but, about 30 min. of scrubbing with Break Free and RB-17 got her clean.

- I haven't been able to do a thorough inspection of the bore as I don't have a drop light. I don't feel any rough spots when running a lightly oiled patch through it though so, there's hope (?).

Though I don't have the right jag, I was able to find a patch tight enough to allow me to "count the turns" and come up with a 1:48 twist. I'm happy about that.

The barrel finish is blued and there are a few small scratches along with some corrosion/pitting near the nipple breach block area. I removed the rust around the area with 00 steel wool and touched it up with a Birchwood Casey Super Black Touch Up Pen. Not perfect but, It looks better.

I noticed the number "87" stamped in the barrel a short distance in front of the serial number. Could that be the year of manufacturer?

Overall, I'm quite pleased with my accidental purchase. I feel like I got a bargain. Hope I continue to feel that way after I shoot it.

 

[Mr. Troll]

There's not a whole lot of parts in the set trigger/ Front trigger, rear trigger, front trigger spring and rear leaf spring, and of course the mounting plate...take it out and have a look. The rear screw is for the leaf spring, backing it out will increase the height of the rear blade, the front screw is for the depth of engagement for the front trigger. Setting that too light will make the front trigger even more sensitive. Back out the front screw and look to see if the rear trigger will set. Mine has an '85 couple of spaces before the number. Mine has a frozen bolster screw, but I'm working on it. I'm thinking I will heat the bolster with a propane torch and use an impact driver on the screw...or maybe it'll just leave it alone. Mine had a stainless nipple installed, but the previous owner had drilled it out to 1/8" inside....but I had a spare new nipple. I haven't checked the twist, but it looks tighter that 1:66. It shoots buffalo ball-ettes well.

 

[rowdyjoe]

Thanks for the reply. I've had the trigger out and tried to adjust it but, no soap. At one point the rear trigger would release the hammer. I "fiddled" with it 'til I fixed that issue.
I must be doing it wrong because the rear screw must be all the way in before it touches the leaf spring and the front screw has very little effect on the front trigger. When cocked, the rear trigger does not move at all and does not set the front trigger.
How are the two "blades" in the trigger mechanism supposed to work with each other? The one activated by the rear trigger barely touches the front trigger blade but, the nose of it appears to be too short. ??? I'm confused. Wish I could see one that's working to compare mine with.
Is there anything in the lock that would affect the trigger set?

 

[Billnpatti]

I think you have gotten a very good deal on that rifle.

Take great care in removing the nipple. You said that you think it may be frozen. What I would do is to take a tooth pick and plug the nipple than put a good penetrating oil in the bore and set the gun up on the butt to let the oil soak into the threads of the nipple. Let is set for at least 24 hours before trying to take out the nipple so it will have time for the oil to penetrate into the nipple threads. Work the nipple back and forth as you remove it to break up any rust in the threads. If there is much rust in the threads and you don't break it up as you remove the nipple, it can build up in the threads and act as a wedge to bind the nipple and jam it in the hole. Depending on the nipple, you may have better luck using a socket wrench to remove it than a nipple wrench.

is not absolutely necessary to remove the bolster screw. You can do a proper cleaning without removing it. However, if you feel that you must remove it, and unless you are a machinest or gunsmith or have the tools and skills to remove it yourself, I'd just take it to a gunsmith and have them remove it. From your description of it, you may have to drill it and use an "ease out" to get it out or you may have to drill it completely out and chase the threads with a proper size tap. I'd just leave it alone.

If those are the only things wrong with it, I'd say you got a good deal and you should expect it to be a good shooter.

 

[rowdyjoe]

Thanks very much for the reply and good advice. I'll follow your process for removing the nipple and leave the bolster screw alone for a while. If I decide to replace it later, I think I'll take it to a gunsmith. I have the tools to do it but, not the expertise.

With the help of a thread in the "Gun Builders" section, I finally figured out how my set trigger works. However, the rear trigger was working when I tested it outside the gun but, now the rear trigger causes the hammer to fall. Back to the drawing board.


Hmmmm ??

I loosened the tang screw a tad and now the rear trigger works fine. Something is interfering with the trigger when the tang screw is tightened all the way. Wonder if a shim under the trigger frame would help the problem?

 

[nwtradegun]

deer creek produces bought all the cva parts http://www.deercreekproducts.net/store/c2/CVA_Hawken_Rifle_Parts.html

 

[rowdyjoe]

Thanks

 

[rowdyjoe]

After installing the barrel back into the stock, the tang screw is tight and the trigger works fine.
I think this old blind hog found an acorn.
However, if it gives me any trouble, I'll replace it.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I don't bother to remove the bolster screw on my cappers. I just pull the nipple when I clean the gun with soapy water. I don't remember the last time I had the screw out on any of my percussion firearms. I'd just leave it unless it comes out fairly easy when you get the nipple loose or if the buggered up screw really bothers you.

 

[Mr. Troll]

sounds like the tang screw was over tightened sometime in the past, and now the wood under the trigger plate is collapsed. shimming the plate might be the answer. The set trigger is pretty simple, so if the blade is too high to allow the sear to set, then the distance is wrong. I had almost the opposite with mine. I had to make a .035" sleeve to go over the sear arm so the trigger would reach it

 

[rowdyjoe]

Well, I've done it now. I've broken the sear spring in the lock and it won't half cock at all and full cock (with the lock out of the rifle) is only accomplished by pushing the sear into place. Is this part available or do I need to buy a new lock?

I'll probably need a new trigger too as the one I have goes through the motions but, doesn't lighten the trigger much, if at all.

Dang