Accidently Bought a Rifle

[rowdyjoe]

I answered my own question by going to the Deer Creek web site. Looks like I have the "new style" sear spring. I ordered one.

Guess I broke the spring while doing an overly aggressive push-off test.

However, this problem has given me the opportunity to become much more familiar with the lock and trigger assemblies. I've figured out that the trigger spring for the rear trigger is broken at the screw hole and, when tightened, the spring moves forward and interferes with the rear trigger leaf. Deer Creek doesn't appear to have any so I'll need to come up with a "fix" to keep the spring from moving. I secured the screw with thread lock but, that probably won't prevent the spring from moving as there is nothing holding it but, friction. Hmmmmmmmm ?

 

[Zonie]

You might want to give them a telephone call.

They sometimes have things in stock that don't show up on their web site.

Deer Creek Products
6989 E Michigan Rd
Waldron, IN 46182

(765) 525-6181

 

[rowdyjoe]

I got a better look at the nipple in the daylight and it is as I feared. The flats have been rounded off.
However, the nipple is not plugged up as the penetrating oil would leak out if I hadn't put a plug in it.

PITA but, I'm learning.

 

[rowdyjoe]

Ah, OK. I'll send them an email. Thanks

 

[Mr. Troll]

Deercreek has a complete trigger assy. for 32.95

 

[rowdyjoe]

Yeah, I've got that in the back of my mind but, I'd like to try to fix mine first. If it doesn't work out, I know where to get 'em.

Thanks

 

[rowdyjoe]

Deer Creek doesn't sell the trigger spring separately so, I bought a trigger assembly. Sear spring has been shipped and if they ship the trigger assembly today I should be in business by the end of next week (?).

By the way, I was able to see more of the bore by making my own "drop light" ....sort of. I have a string of small, 12v, LED lights I bought long ago (don't remember why). I connected a string of 3 and hooked them up to a small battery and dropped them down the bore. I could only see about half way with this contraption but, I liked what I saw. Bore is clean and shinny with no pits that I could see. I need to rig my new device with smaller diameter wire ....or buy a drop bore light.

 

[Mr. Troll]

Those $5 led/laser bore lights work just fine.

 

[rowdyjoe]

Where are you buying a bore light for $5? Those I've seen sell for $10 +.

 

[Mr. Troll]

Wal-mart, Cabelas, Gander Mountain, all have them. Remington name, includes batteries!

 

[rowdyjoe]

Hmmmmm I must not being entering the correct term in the search engine. I have found "drop bore lights" that drop down the barrel and laser lights (by caliber) used for bore sighting ....mostly for centerfire.

Give me a hint.

 

[necchi]

Lot's of different manufactures of these, battery and light together,,push on/pull off. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lindy-Nite-Brite-Battery-Light/16877883#about-item
$3-4 each, lasts for months even years if not used too much and stored proper.

 

[Mr. Troll]

http://www.manventureoutpost.com/pr...tml?google=1&gclid=CO2PhqfUrNQCFQkEaQoddlMH4A
This is what I bought. Works quite well, has a magnetic base and the laser for entertaining cats

 

[rowdyjoe]

Oh yeah. I have one of those with a long flexible neck. It came with a small soldering "handy vice" that I've had for years. I forgot about it 'til now.
It works pretty good for looking down the bore. Can't see much detail past the muzzle but, I did see some pitting near the muzzle. Not bad though and the rifling looks sharp.

 

[rowdyjoe]

That link took me to a battery. Is that what you bought?

 

[Zonie]

Scroll up in the Walmart link to see the "thill" float.

It's both a battery and a LED made as a fishing float for fishing at night.

It has a push/pull, off/on switch built into it.

 

[Gene L]

I polished a short section of aluminum rod and dropped it down the bore and shone a flashlight down the barrel. Works fine.

 

[rowdyjoe]

OK. I saw that but, was unsure if the light came with the battery. Looks like it should work fine.

Thanks for the link.

Just ordered one.

 

[Billnpatti]

Three things to look at to see what is causing the problem with your trigger. First, often folks will over tighten the lock bolt. this causes things in the lock to bind against the inside of the lock mortise. The lock bolt needs to be just snug, not tightened like King Kong did it. Second, check the little screw under the trigger assembly. The one that adjusts the trigger. Quite often it is screwed in too far and causes problems with the trigger. It does not lighten the trigger as many think, all it does is adjust the engegement of the set trigger. Screwed too far in and the set trigger won't work. Hmmm :hmm: sounds familiar. Lastly, over tightening of the screws that hold the trigger assembly in the stock can cause the wood fibers to be crushed and allow the trigger to set too deeply in the stock. Sometimes, just applying water to the trigger mortise will allow the fibers to swell back to normal. If you do this, be sure to allow the wood to dry thoroughly before reassembling you rifle. If this does not work, you will need either a shim to raise the triggers up just a tad or you will need to file off a bit of the trigger bar where it strikes the sear. You need just a very slight gap between the trigger bar and the sear. About the thickness of a playing card is all you need. Too big of a gap and the trigger will feel sloppy. Not enough gap and the set trigger may not work.

 

[rowdyjoe]

Thanks Bill,
I'm getting to know these parts as I go and have learned a lot in a short time ...with the help of good guys like you.

Since I haven't been able to find a replacement trigger spring for the rear trigger, I ordered a new trigger assembly today from Deer Creek. Your instructions will come in real handy when I install it.