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Accurate PC/HC smoothbore

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KHickam

50 Cal.
Joined
Apr 15, 2007
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My wife has given me the go ahead to start shopping around for a smoothbore to replace my other one.

I am looking for an accurate (I know) and reasonably PC/HC piece that would be carried by a Carolina Farmer in 1770s of modest (though not poor) means.

Helpful Suggestions?
 
You're probably looking at a english fowler of some grade, maybe even a "Carolina" gun.
 
Click on Mike Brooks' screen name above then click on his website hyperlink.
 
Most every gun can be fixed........I mean you could re crown your barrel, Put a White Lighten touch hole liner in. Try a temporary rear sight to see if its a sight picture consistency problem. Patches laying on the ground in front of the muzzle should be able to be used again. But then again maybe your smoothbore doesnt fit your body well and maybe that is part of the problem. My J.Brown Carolina Smoothbore fits me like a glove.............Good Luck...........Bob
 
Lock time is fast and consistent. Patches are not blown and I am still in the process of figuring it out - which I will keep doing until I figure it out or get a new gun.
 
You may want to try an adjustable X stick for stand up shooting this may give some consistancy'
 
KHickam said:
Lock time is fast and consistent. Patches are not blown and I am still in the process of figuring it out - which I will keep doing until I figure it out or get a new gun.
Check to see how well your barrel is bedded at the breech. Also check to see if the barrel lugs have been slotted.
These two things are usually not top priority of builders who make "reasonably" priced guns. :wink:
 
Mike - Not being a builder/or even close - not sure what you mean by slotted? Or what to look for in bedding of the breech.

Keith
 
The breech (back end)of the barrel must be seated well against the wood. The lugs on the bottom of the barrel that hold the pins must be slotted so the stock/barrel can expand and contract. Not just a hole drilled through the lug the same size as the pin. VERY critical for light barreled smooth bores.
 
A slot is a long, or elongated hole in the barrel hanger, to allow movement back and forth along the length of the barrel of the pins, or keys, that hold the stock to the barrel. This allows movement due to swelling of the wood in wet conditions, and shrinkage during dry winter months. If the slot is not there, the pins or keys will bind, cause the barrel to move from shot to shot as the barrel heats up, and then cools down. Sometimes the wood will actually warp permanently, and that will certainly cause a change in POI, with subsequent shots going who-knows-where in a match, or during load development. The slot needs to be elongated so that its at least 3 widths of the pin that holds the stock to the barrel. Some can get away with less, but why take a chance. The pin is held in its " center" by the holes in the wood of the stock, and any escutcheon that might be used around the pin holes, and will not move. Only the barrel will seem to move back and forth, when in reality it is the wood that actually moves, while the pins and barrel remain stationary. Its the swelling and shrinking of the wood that makes the pins appear to move back and forth in the slot.
 
Well, the barrel is bedded well - but the holes that are on the barrel hanger are not oval shaped or elongated in any way just round holes - not sure I have anything that can help there.

Keith
 
Keith-
1.As suggested, elongate the holes in the tenons. With luck this will solve problem.
2.Do not tell wife. Instead order new smoothbore of your choice while loudly lamenting shortcomongs of old one. Give wife big wet kiss for being so understanding in these matters and take her out to dinner. (It always works for me.)
3.After suitable period of time has elapsed, mention how lack of P.C. rifle is affecting your morale/social status.
 
Russ - Good advice.

I have no files or tools small enough to open up the tenons - will have to take it to my local gunsmith and see if that helps.

If I can't get it to shoot - I will have to do much more than taking her out to dinner to get her to let go of the purse strings and fork out $1700 for another smoothbore.
 
I did it with a very small rat tail file I had from some other work, but that is almost maddening. If you can get a jeweler's saw, use it. It looks like a coping saw, but the blades are even smaller. You feed the blade through the existing hole, then re attach the loose end to the saw frame, and saw on the sides. You may have to clean up the hole with a small jeweler's file, anyway, but use the saw to take out most of the material. Its saves time, and your fingers.

They do make some drills now that cut sideways, but I do not believe they are made in small bit sizes, such as 1/16 ". If they did, that would be the fast way to hog out the tenon, or hanger.
 

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