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Joined
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I just got my sweet 2020 production Pietta London Navy .36 back from gunsmith Charlie Hahn. He helped accurize the gun by reaming the cylinders to .374” to match my barrel groove diameter. From the factory, the chambers were quite a bit undersized only sizing the balls to .370”. He also added an 11° forcing cone to improve the nearly non-existent one the gun had and he crowned the muzzle. Initial groupings are a great improvement:
3F8CE54A-B5CE-46E2-AA09-F18200B6DEC6.jpeg

This is a public land shooting range here in Southern Nevada and sadly it’s quite trashed. I always make sure to police the area and pick up any trash I can from others. Unfortunate for sure how some treat these lands! But back on subject the target above is at 20 yards. The load for today was pretty well a full power one of 22 grains Old Eynsford 3Fg with my homemade wads (more on those below) and .380 swaged balls from Long Hunter. Here they are:
F36EF40D-8BD3-4FA7-8B80-C0448E1AED6A.jpeg

This was the first group of the day from a clean bore and it measured 2”. Not bad! At the same range the gun was grouping closer to 3” or more before the accuracy work by Mr. Hahn.
3C55B28A-4AF6-4DB1-AC37-C1FCFB9AFB30.jpeg

This later 6 o’clock group on the target measures 1” and the group above 1.5”. Not bad at all at 20 yards with a near full load. I need to open up the rear sight some and the gun will eventually need to be corrected for windage once I do plenty more load developments. Good to know though for defensive carry use my Navy is grouping nicely!

I used Mike Beliveau’s recipe and method for making wads found in his excellent video bellow. Years ago I did this exact method and was super impressed with the wads and I am as well this time:



These are made with the very high quality, dense pure hard wool felt available from the folks at Durafelt. It’s about twice as dense as any factory wads I’ve ever tried. Mike’s recipe of 1/2 parts beeswax to lamb’s tallow (which can be found on Dixie Gun Works or U.S. Wellness Meats) is just superb. These wads are phenomenal!! I find they keep the fouling absolutely soft and almost “fluffy”. You can look down the bore and see the fluffy fouling, not hard baked on stuff. Wipes away easily! Back at home I could literally clean the bore completely with just three patches. One wet with moose’s milk, one dry, and one lubed with Ballistol. The snug dry patch was COMPLETELY CLEAN of residue! The fact my Navy now sizes balls to fill out the barrel grooves completely also helps with fouling.
D9BEBA40-11A1-43AD-B8E4-EBB39FAFA23E.jpeg

Also I tried out some new Slix-Shot nipples on the gun. I was using Treso nipples with good results, but my large stockpile of Remington #10 caps didn’t fit as snug on them as I liked. The Slix-Shots are specifically designed for Remy 10s and they fit nice and snug. The unique ported design also reduced cap fragmentation notably. Most caps fell right off through the cap window or they stayed flat against the nipple and were largely complete and not blown apart. They work great!!

I also am experimenting with the Polish Capper. I am a bit on the fence about it. It works fairly well, but on my particular gun it’s a very tight fit and the “nozzle” of the capper has to be lined up and removed perfectly otherwise the cap isn’t seated properly. There is quite a lot of brass on the nozzle and I think a little judicious filing should make for an easier fit. I understand many have great success with this European capper but with the slight variations in guns some are probably a little more fussy with it.

I’m having a blast with this Pietta! Stay tuned for more results and load developments. I also plan to do a post on the stopping power and history of the .36 Navy caliber with maybe a ballistics gel test once the weather cools down here. This little Navy has been 100% perfectly reliable over 200+ rounds fired and the quality of the action and internal parts is the best I’ve ever seen on any Pietta to date. They really seem to have their act together now. A little more attention on the barrels and chambers and maybe a little cosmetic improvements and they’d have an absolute winner.

Take care gang! 😀

-Smokey
 
I also am experimenting with the Polish Capper. I am a bit on the fence about it. It works fairly well, but on my particular gun it’s a very tight fit and the “nozzle” of the capper has to be lined up and removed perfectly otherwise the cap isn’t seated properly. There is quite a lot of brass on the nozzle and I think a little judicious filing should make for an easier fit. I understand many have great success with this European capper but with the slight variations in guns some are probably a little more fussy with it.

-Smokey
I watched a video from Mike (I think) and when he deburred and tuned an 1858 he used a dremel and opened up the gap so an inline capper would work properly. All that part of the cylinder is non-structural and does not hurt a thing to open it up. That also seemed to help with getting spent caps to fall free and not fall into the action. Since I have 2 cylinders for mine - I am going to open one of them up and see how they run compared side by side.
 
I watched a video from Mike (I think) and when he deburred and tuned an 1858 he used a dremel and opened up the gap so an inline capper would work properly. All that part of the cylinder is non-structural and does not hurt a thing to open it up. That also seemed to help with getting spent caps to fall free and not fall into the action. Since I have 2 cylinders for mine - I am going to open one of them up and see how they run compared side by side.
The issue with mine is the cutout in the recoil shield make for a tight fit. There’s actually plenty of space in the nipple cutout for it to work. The Colt’s are pretty generous in that regard.
 
Thanks for posting this Smokey. There seems to be a debate on whether opening up the chambers helps, but in your case it apparently did. I hope you continue to report load development.
 
UPDATE:

I just reworked the nozzle (can’t find a better word for it LOL) on my Polish capper:
250C286B-26EA-4C19-9A46-4CACAEBE4918.jpeg

I removed metal to round out the back a little and some off the blocky sides. Should still be plenty strong. I tested it and it now works EXTREMELY well and goes right on and off, depositing a cap firmly on the nipple properly. NICE!! If anyone out there experiences this issue hope this will help you!
 
Thanks for posting this Smokey. There seems to be a debate on whether opening up the chambers helps, but in your case it apparently did. I hope you continue to report load development.
I believe Mr. Hahn spinkles a little magic accurizing dust on every gun he massages. At least that’s what I heard.

WRT the windage issue @Smokey Plainsman , it looks like a few extra file strokes on the right side of the rear sight notch as you widen it may be all it takes...
 
I believe Mr. Hahn spinkles a little magic accurizing dust on every gun he massages. At least that’s what I heard.

WRT the windage issue @Smokey Plainsman , it looks like a few extra file strokes on the right side of the rear sight notch as you widen it may be all it takes...

Thanks! I’ll get there eventually once I find the best load but by my calculations I shouldn’t need to remove much.
 
It never fails to amaze me how little needs to come off of a pistol sight. Zonie could tell you how much pretty close, I’m in the “Take a couple strokes, shoot, couple more, shoot, one more, shoot, call it good.” kinda camp.
 
Calculating the amount of material that needs to be added or reduced from the front sight isn't hard to do.

Using the distance to the target in inches, divide it by the distance between the sights. Save this answer.
Now, multiply the saved answer times the amount you want the shot on the target to move. That will give you the amount the sights need to be changed.

For instance, if the target is at 25 yards, that makes it 25 yards X 3 feet per yard X 12 inches or, 25 X 3 X 12 = 900 inches.

If the distance between the sights is 7 inches, divide 7 by 900 = .0078". Save this number.

If you want to move the point of impact 6 inches, multiply 6 times .0078 = .047". If you want it to move 4 inches, multiply the saved number X 4 so we have 4 X .0078 = .031". To move the point of impact 12" multiply 12 X the saved number so we have 12 X .0078 = .093".

The answer is the total amount the gun's sights need to be changed.
 
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Thanks gang! I have been doing more load development:
BD59CD4D-7E24-43FB-A3F0-15DC7F35E5C6.jpeg

This is 10 shots at 20 yards with two flyers. I need to identify if one of the chambers is consistently giving me a flyer. If so, I’ll remove the nipple permanently and just use that one as my “safety” chamber that I’ll use to carry the hammer down on.

Not bad! This group measures under 1.5” minus the flyers and an my gun seems to like about 19 grains of powder. 15 didn’t group well and a full 22 grain load not quite as well either. I’m going to take it to the local gun range and really bench the gun off a concrete shooting table with shot bags instead of a cheap plastic rest off the back of my sedan in the desert LOL.

Reliability is now up to about 250 rounds of 100% perfect reliability. This is my new nightstand revolver for personal home protection. I trust it that much, and men like Wild Bill and interviews done by Elmer Keith of Confederate veterans prove that it is an effective stopper loaded with round balls.
 
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Smokey, my parents used to live in Calico Basin inside Red Rocks National Area. Sold about 5 years back when moms health failed and she couldn’t keep horses, chickens, goats, dogs etc. A lot of folks don’t know a few miles off the Vegas strip is some of the most beautiful scenery in the US. Great place, great gun!
 
QUOTE="Smokey Plainsman, post: 1701000, member: 27453"]
I just got my sweet 2020 production Pietta London Navy .36 back from gunsmith Charlie Hahn. He helped accurize the gun by reaming the cylinders to .374” to match my barrel groove diameter. From the factory, the chambers were quite a bit undersized only sizing the balls to .370”. He also added an 11° forcing cone to improve the nearly non-existent one the gun had and he crowned the muzzle. Initial groupings are a great improvement:
View attachment 41413
This is a public land shooting range here in Southern Nevada and sadly it’s quite trashed. I always make sure to police the area and pick up any trash I can from others. Unfortunate for sure how some treat these lands! But back on subject the target above is at 20 yards. The load for today was pretty well a full power one of 22 grains Old Eynsford 3Fg with my homemade wads (more on those below) and .380 swaged balls from Long Hunter. Here they are:
View attachment 41414
This was the first group of the day from a clean bore and it measured 2”. Not bad! At the same range the gun was grouping closer to 3” or more before the accuracy work by Mr. Hahn.
View attachment 41415
This later 6 o’clock group on the target measures 1” and the group above 1.5”. Not bad at all at 20 yards with a near full load. I need to open up the rear sight some and the gun will eventually need to be corrected for windage once I do plenty more load developments. Good to know though for defensive carry use my Navy is grouping nicely!

I used Mike Beliveau’s recipe and method for making wads found in his excellent video bellow. Years ago I did this exact method and was super impressed with the wads and I am as well this time:



These are made with the very high quality, dense pure hard wool felt available from the folks at Durafelt. It’s about twice as dense as any factory wads I’ve ever tried. Mike’s recipe of 1/2 parts beeswax to lamb’s tallow (which can be found on Dixie Gun Works or U.S. Wellness Meats) is just superb. These wads are phenomenal!! I find they keep the fouling absolutely soft and almost “fluffy”. You can look down the bore and see the fluffy fouling, not hard baked on stuff. Wipes away easily! Back at home I could literally clean the bore completely with just three patches. One wet with moose’s milk, one dry, and one lubed with Ballistol. The snug dry patch was COMPLETELY CLEAN of residue! The fact my Navy now sizes balls to fill out the barrel grooves completely also helps with fouling.
View attachment 41416
Also I tried out some new Slix-Shot nipples on the gun. I was using Treso nipples with good results, but my large stockpile of Remington #10 caps didn’t fit as snug on them as I liked. The Slix-Shots are specifically designed for Remy 10s and they fit nice and snug. The unique ported design also reduced cap fragmentation notably. Most caps fell right off through the cap window or they stayed flat against the nipple and were largely complete and not blown apart. They work great!!

I also am experimenting with the Polish Capper. I am a bit on the fence about it. It works fairly well, but on my particular gun it’s a very tight fit and the “nozzle” of the capper has to be lined up and removed perfectly otherwise the cap isn’t seated properly. There is quite a lot of brass on the nozzle and I think a little judicious filing should make for an easier fit. I understand many have great success with this European capper but with the slight variations in guns some are probably a little more fussy with it.

I’m having a blast with this Pietta! Stay tuned for more results and load developments. I also plan to do a post on the stopping power and history of the .36 Navy caliber with maybe a ballistics gel test once the weather cools down here. This little Navy has been 100% perfectly reliable over 200+ rounds fired and the quality of the action and internal parts is the best I’ve ever seen on any Pietta to date. They really seem to have their act together now. A little more attention on the barrels and chambers and maybe a little cosmetic improvements and they’d have an absolute winner.

Take care gang! 😀

-Smokey
What is his turnaround time?
 
QUOTE="Smokey Plainsman, post: 1701000, member: 27453"]
I just got my sweet 2020 production Pietta London Navy .36 back from gunsmith Charlie Hahn. He helped accurize the gun by reaming the cylinders to .374” to match my barrel groove diameter. From the factory, the chambers were quite a bit undersized only sizing the balls to .370”. He also added an 11° forcing cone to improve the nearly non-existent one the gun had and he crowned the muzzle. Initial groupings are a great improvement:
View attachment 41413
This is a public land shooting range here in Southern Nevada and sadly it’s quite trashed. I always make sure to police the area and pick up any trash I can from others. Unfortunate for sure how some treat these lands! But back on subject the target above is at 20 yards. The load for today was pretty well a full power one of 22 grains Old Eynsford 3Fg with my homemade wads (more on those below) and .380 swaged balls from Long Hunter. Here they are:
View attachment 41414
This was the first group of the day from a clean bore and it measured 2”. Not bad! At the same range the gun was grouping closer to 3” or more before the accuracy work by Mr. Hahn.
View attachment 41415
This later 6 o’clock group on the target measures 1” and the group above 1.5”. Not bad at all at 20 yards with a near full load. I need to open up the rear sight some and the gun will eventually need to be corrected for windage once I do plenty more load developments. Good to know though for defensive carry use my Navy is grouping nicely!

I used Mike Beliveau’s recipe and method for making wads found in his excellent video bellow. Years ago I did this exact method and was super impressed with the wads and I am as well this time:



These are made with the very high quality, dense pure hard wool felt available from the folks at Durafelt. It’s about twice as dense as any factory wads I’ve ever tried. Mike’s recipe of 1/2 parts beeswax to lamb’s tallow (which can be found on Dixie Gun Works or U.S. Wellness Meats) is just superb. These wads are phenomenal!! I find they keep the fouling absolutely soft and almost “fluffy”. You can look down the bore and see the fluffy fouling, not hard baked on stuff. Wipes away easily! Back at home I could literally clean the bore completely with just three patches. One wet with moose’s milk, one dry, and one lubed with Ballistol. The snug dry patch was COMPLETELY CLEAN of residue! The fact my Navy now sizes balls to fill out the barrel grooves completely also helps with fouling.
View attachment 41416
Also I tried out some new Slix-Shot nipples on the gun. I was using Treso nipples with good results, but my large stockpile of Remington #10 caps didn’t fit as snug on them as I liked. The Slix-Shots are specifically designed for Remy 10s and they fit nice and snug. The unique ported design also reduced cap fragmentation notably. Most caps fell right off through the cap window or they stayed flat against the nipple and were largely complete and not blown apart. They work great!!

I also am experimenting with the Polish Capper. I am a bit on the fence about it. It works fairly well, but on my particular gun it’s a very tight fit and the “nozzle” of the capper has to be lined up and removed perfectly otherwise the cap isn’t seated properly. There is quite a lot of brass on the nozzle and I think a little judicious filing should make for an easier fit. I understand many have great success with this European capper but with the slight variations in guns some are probably a little more fussy with it.

I’m having a blast with this Pietta! Stay tuned for more results and load developments. I also plan to do a post on the stopping power and history of the .36 Navy caliber with maybe a ballistics gel test once the weather cools down here. This little Navy has been 100% perfectly reliable over 200+ rounds fired and the quality of the action and internal parts is the best I’ve ever seen on any Pietta to date. They really seem to have their act together now. A little more attention on the barrels and chambers and maybe a little cosmetic improvements and they’d have an absolute winner.

Take care gang! 😀

-Smokey
What is his turnaround time?

It’s been a while but he was turning stuff in 4 to 6 weeks depending on the work. He did a couple cylinders for me and turned those around in 10 days I think..
 
I just got my sweet 2020 production Pietta London Navy .36 back from gunsmith Charlie Hahn. He helped accurize the gun by reaming the cylinders to .374” to match my barrel groove diameter. From the factory, the chambers were quite a bit undersized only sizing the balls to .370”. He also added an 11° forcing cone to improve the nearly non-existent one the gun had and he crowned the muzzle. Initial groupings are a great improvement:
View attachment 41413
This is a public land shooting range here in Southern Nevada and sadly it’s quite trashed. I always make sure to police the area and pick up any trash I can from others. Unfortunate for sure how some treat these lands! But back on subject the target above is at 20 yards. The load for today was pretty well a full power one of 22 grains Old Eynsford 3Fg with my homemade wads (more on those below) and .380 swaged balls from Long Hunter. Here they are:
View attachment 41414
This was the first group of the day from a clean bore and it measured 2”. Not bad! At the same range the gun was grouping closer to 3” or more before the accuracy work by Mr. Hahn.
View attachment 41415
This later 6 o’clock group on the target measures 1” and the group above 1.5”. Not bad at all at 20 yards with a near full load. I need to open up the rear sight some and the gun will eventually need to be corrected for windage once I do plenty more load developments. Good to know though for defensive carry use my Navy is grouping nicely!

I used Mike Beliveau’s recipe and method for making wads found in his excellent video bellow. Years ago I did this exact method and was super impressed with the wads and I am as well this time:



These are made with the very high quality, dense pure hard wool felt available from the folks at Durafelt. It’s about twice as dense as any factory wads I’ve ever tried. Mike’s recipe of 1/2 parts beeswax to lamb’s tallow (which can be found on Dixie Gun Works or U.S. Wellness Meats) is just superb. These wads are phenomenal!! I find they keep the fouling absolutely soft and almost “fluffy”. You can look down the bore and see the fluffy fouling, not hard baked on stuff. Wipes away easily! Back at home I could literally clean the bore completely with just three patches. One wet with moose’s milk, one dry, and one lubed with Ballistol. The snug dry patch was COMPLETELY CLEAN of residue! The fact my Navy now sizes balls to fill out the barrel grooves completely also helps with fouling.
View attachment 41416
Also I tried out some new Slix-Shot nipples on the gun. I was using Treso nipples with good results, but my large stockpile of Remington #10 caps didn’t fit as snug on them as I liked. The Slix-Shots are specifically designed for Remy 10s and they fit nice and snug. The unique ported design also reduced cap fragmentation notably. Most caps fell right off through the cap window or they stayed flat against the nipple and were largely complete and not blown apart. They work great!!

I also am experimenting with the Polish Capper. I am a bit on the fence about it. It works fairly well, but on my particular gun it’s a very tight fit and the “nozzle” of the capper has to be lined up and removed perfectly otherwise the cap isn’t seated properly. There is quite a lot of brass on the nozzle and I think a little judicious filing should make for an easier fit. I understand many have great success with this European capper but with the slight variations in guns some are probably a little more fussy with it.

I’m having a blast with this Pietta! Stay tuned for more results and load developments. I also plan to do a post on the stopping power and history of the .36 Navy caliber with maybe a ballistics gel test once the weather cools down here. This little Navy has been 100% perfectly reliable over 200+ rounds fired and the quality of the action and internal parts is the best I’ve ever seen on any Pietta to date. They really seem to have their act together now. A little more attention on the barrels and chambers and maybe a little cosmetic improvements and they’d have an absolute winner.

Take care gang! 😀

-Smokey

nice group you shot. reducing the former groups by an inch after the work was done maybe because mentally you figure you were using an accurized gun and it made you concentrate better. mental outlook has a big effect providing the gun is accurate on the results
 
I just got my sweet 2020 production Pietta London Navy .36 back from gunsmith Charlie Hahn. He helped accurize the gun by reaming the cylinders to .374” to match my barrel groove diameter. From the factory, the chambers were quite a bit undersized only sizing the balls to .370”. He also added an 11° forcing cone to improve the nearly non-existent one the gun had and he crowned the muzzle. Initial groupings are a great improvement:
View attachment 41413
This is a public land shooting range here in Southern Nevada and sadly it’s quite trashed. I always make sure to police the area and pick up any trash I can from others. Unfortunate for sure how some treat these lands! But back on subject the target above is at 20 yards. The load for today was pretty well a full power one of 22 grains Old Eynsford 3Fg with my homemade wads (more on those below) and .380 swaged balls from Long Hunter. Here they are:
View attachment 41414
This was the first group of the day from a clean bore and it measured 2”. Not bad! At the same range the gun was grouping closer to 3” or more before the accuracy work by Mr. Hahn.
View attachment 41415
This later 6 o’clock group on the target measures 1” and the group above 1.5”. Not bad at all at 20 yards with a near full load. I need to open up the rear sight some and the gun will eventually need to be corrected for windage once I do plenty more load developments. Good to know though for defensive carry use my Navy is grouping nicely!

I used Mike Beliveau’s recipe and method for making wads found in his excellent video bellow. Years ago I did this exact method and was super impressed with the wads and I am as well this time:



These are made with the very high quality, dense pure hard wool felt available from the folks at Durafelt. It’s about twice as dense as any factory wads I’ve ever tried. Mike’s recipe of 1/2 parts beeswax to lamb’s tallow (which can be found on Dixie Gun Works or U.S. Wellness Meats) is just superb. These wads are phenomenal!! I find they keep the fouling absolutely soft and almost “fluffy”. You can look down the bore and see the fluffy fouling, not hard baked on stuff. Wipes away easily! Back at home I could literally clean the bore completely with just three patches. One wet with moose’s milk, one dry, and one lubed with Ballistol. The snug dry patch was COMPLETELY CLEAN of residue! The fact my Navy now sizes balls to fill out the barrel grooves completely also helps with fouling.
View attachment 41416
Also I tried out some new Slix-Shot nipples on the gun. I was using Treso nipples with good results, but my large stockpile of Remington #10 caps didn’t fit as snug on them as I liked. The Slix-Shots are specifically designed for Remy 10s and they fit nice and snug. The unique ported design also reduced cap fragmentation notably. Most caps fell right off through the cap window or they stayed flat against the nipple and were largely complete and not blown apart. They work great!!

I also am experimenting with the Polish Capper. I am a bit on the fence about it. It works fairly well, but on my particular gun it’s a very tight fit and the “nozzle” of the capper has to be lined up and removed perfectly otherwise the cap isn’t seated properly. There is quite a lot of brass on the nozzle and I think a little judicious filing should make for an easier fit. I understand many have great success with this European capper but with the slight variations in guns some are probably a little more fussy with it.

I’m having a blast with this Pietta! Stay tuned for more results and load developments. I also plan to do a post on the stopping power and history of the .36 Navy caliber with maybe a ballistics gel test once the weather cools down here. This little Navy has been 100% perfectly reliable over 200+ rounds fired and the quality of the action and internal parts is the best I’ve ever seen on any Pietta to date. They really seem to have their act together now. A little more attention on the barrels and chambers and maybe a little cosmetic improvements and they’d have an absolute winner.

Take care gang! 😀

-Smokey
 
UPDATE:

I just reworked the nozzle (can’t find a better word for it LOL) on my Polish capper:
View attachment 41424
I removed metal to round out the back a little and some off the blocky sides. Should still be plenty strong. I tested it and it now works EXTREMELY well and goes right on and off, depositing a cap firmly on the nipple properly. NICE!! If anyone out there experiences this issue hope this will help you!
NOZZLE it is! No better word!
 
oniCalculating the amount of material that needs to be added or reduced from the front sight isn't hard to do.

Using the distance to the target in inches, divide it by the distance between the sights. Save this answer.
Now, multiply the saved answer times the amount you want the shot on the target to move. That will give you the amount the sights need to be changed.

For instance, if the target is at 25 yards, that makes it 25 yards X 3 feet per yard X 12 inches or, 25 X 3 X 12 = 900 inches.

If the distance between the sights is 7 inches, divide 7 by 900 = .0078". Save this number.

If you want to move the point of impact 6 inches, multiply 6 times .0078 = .047". If you want it to move 4 inches, multiply the saved number X 4 so we have 4 X .0078 = .031". To move the point of impact 12" multiply 12 X the saved number so we have 12 X .0078 = .093".

The answer is the total amount the gun's sights need to be changed.


Zonie et.al.:

There are several ways to calculate the value of 1MOA for a given sight radius, remembering that 1MOA is very nearly 1" at 100 yards, and that 1" at, say, 25 yards is 4MOA, The easiest and most accurate way to calculate the value of 1MOA for a known sight radius is to consider it as a trig problem. The trigonometric value (sine) for 1MOA is .00029, and using that as a multiplier for the sight radius in inches will give a very accurate value for the necessary change to the sights to produce a 1MOA change in POI. Thus: sight radius = 7", multiplied by .00029 gives a value for 1MOA change in POI of .00203", NOT .0078", and to move the POI by 4"at 25 yards, which is 16MOA at that range, would require a sight change of only .03248" - the figure derived in your example is 3 times too large.
I've used this method for many years in building and altering the sights on all types of long and short arms, and it works - it is certainly better to make too small a change initially, than too large.

mhb - MIke
 
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