Acraglas, Enfield and Slowpoke

[robinghewitt]

Hi

Slowpoke has sent me a red Acraglas pack to fix an Enfield I got cheap. Splendid chap Slowpoke ::

It's made from parts of a type 2 and a type 3, dated 1858 on the lock. Someone has opened the barrel channel out to take a round barrel and I want the Acraglas to take it back to tapered.

Of course the barrel is held in by 3 bands which get progressively looser as you move towards the muzzle. The Glas has to hold it up tight against the bands and will need some assistance until it hardens.

Extra problems are the exposed ramrod channel which I don't want to fill, a hundred years worth of oily guck soaked into the wood and I'm not sure one pot of glas will be enough so I may need to start with something else I can get locally.

All ideas, brilliant or otherwise, gratefully accepted. I will be guided.

best regards

Squire Hewitt

 

[jh45gun]

If you can get the epoxy over there that you mix together 50/50 that is the clear stuff that will work ok also. Basically the acraglas is just a more refined version of epoxy. We get stuff over here that is a fast setting epoxy called 5 Min Epoxy, that will work fine. They also make epoxies that do not set as fast. I have used these in place of the acraglas and they worked fine. Jim

 

This is a big job and you will need more than you can get from the tubes of epoxey. If you have auto maintainance retailers over there you need to try them. There is a product called Bondo fiberglass compound that is used to repair cars, boats or anything else made from fiberglass. I am not speaking of the bondo body filler compound, but the fiberglass compound. It is identical to the acra-glass but comes in containers from one pint to one gallon. Mix up what you need and save the rest. You can mix the hardener to set at the speed you desire. Use the same release agent as the acra-glass or coat the parts with Petrolium jelly. You can use modeling clay to block off the exposed RR channel.

 

Almost sounds like we have done this before dosen't it!

 

[robinghewitt]

I shall buy a glass fiber car body repair kit tomorrow, assuming they haven't been banned since last time I bought one ::

Presumably the Acraglas dyes are fairly universal, but this still leaves the questions of how do I stop it going into the ramrod channel, how do I make it stick to the oily wood and how do I push the barrel up against the barrel bands?

 

[Doc Arroyo]

You might want to do a couple of practice runs on other things before jumping in on the accraglas or bondo repair of that gun. Especially on the release agents!

Try cleaning the gunk with acetone. That and a bit of roughing up sanding may be required to get the accragas to bond.

I have used packing or strapping tape to cover exposed ramrod channels before bedding. Modeling clay is great for building temporary dams in areas that can be easily cleaned out later (NOT ramrod channels!!!!) And yes I did make that mistake once!

 

[jh45gun]

I shall buy a glass fiber car body repair kit tomorrow, assuming they haven't been banned since last time I bought one ::

Presumably the Acraglas dyes are fairly universal, but this still leaves the questions of how do I stop it going into the ramrod channel, how do I make it stick to the oily wood and how do I push the barrel up against the barrel bands?

Plug any holes with clay. Modeler's clay, Kids clay, or the stuff they use for floral arrangements ect. Paste wax can be used as a release agent. Dyes that are used for woodworking or even wood stains will work to color the epoxy. Jim

 

[robinghewitt]

Got into town and it seems our local fiberglass resin auto part shop closed down some months ago. I will have to go over to Newhaven and get some there ::

 

For removal of the accumilated finish and stock gunk you might try an imersion bath in acetone. Float the stock in the bath for a week turning occasionally. Following the acetone bath float for an aditional week in alcahol. The wood will be clean at this point. Both of these substances are highly flamable so take proper precautions and keep the containers covered.

A less drastic method would be the application of gentle heat to draw the oil from the stock recesses. This is probably 150 years of linseed oil saturated into the stock and it may take 150 more years to remove it using the gentle methods.

One can use a combination of aluminum foil and modeling clay to block off small or large portions of stock recesses that do not need to be filled with the glass compound.

Saran wrap or any cling wrap works as an excellent large surface release agent. It may stick to the glass compound but will allow one to seperate the wood and metal parts without harm.

You may have to form "piers" of clay or wood to lift the barrel into the bands. I would shape wood to the proper size, sourround the wooden piers with clay "dams" and pour the glass, seat the barrel and let it harden. When the main bed of glass hardened go beck and remove the piers, then fill the resulting voids with more glass.

Good luck!

 

[robinghewitt]

A week in an acetone bath sounds less than easy and this gun really doesn't warrant anything like that. I'll splosh some of the wife's nail varnish remover over it and give it a quick wirewooling perhaps?

I just stripped the old varnish off. Not something I would normally do but it has been bound tight with string or similar all the way up the butt giving it a peculiar tiger stripe. Most odd.

The right hand side of the barrel channel is lower than the left side. More clay required. There is a bolt hoding the nose cap on. More clay etc ::

 

[Stumpkiller]

Kerosene and a heat gun can exude some of the old oils. In problem spots a piece of brown paper bag placed over the spot and rubbed with a dry clothes iron (well cleaned before the wife finds out) can draw old oils out where they're really stubborn.

You'll need to use a lot of pore filler before you rub in linseed or what-have-you oil after drying an old stock so agressively. Otherwise, you're just changing the oil and not removing it.

 

[Slowpoke]

"Splendid chap Slowpoke "

yeah, yeah..... just remember that if you get your barrel stuck. I use car wax to cover the barrel before I use the acraglas.

Chuck

 

[robinghewitt]

Hi Slowpoke

I'd almost given up that you would ever get here ::

I think I almost have enough to begin, but I think the void is bigger than the pot of resin. Do I put it all in and reckon to come back for a second try if not enough?

best regards

Squire Hewitt
GHH

 

[Slowpoke]

I ordered 3 more boxes.... one to replace the one I gave you and the other 2 for you. I figured you'd like the stuff and want somemore.

I had to use a whole box on that gun I'm working on now.... the one with all the worm holes in it... I was forcing it into the holes in the wood... little did I know that the holes went straight through the stock. So basically I was putting it in one side and it was running out the other.

I have basically finished the rifle and am working on carving and doing some wire work. The gun had 26 worm holes in it that I had to fill. The wood is beautiful but the worm stain kinda take away from it.

Chuck

 

[rexdevantier]

G'day Robin, try any general engineers supply and they will have something for sure. I use stuff called DEVCON but that is made in Australia and you probably won't have it in the U.K. but there is some real good stuff around now that makes car body filler look like flour and paste glue.
Rex Dev

 

[shooter575]

Robin, Take a look at this companys stuff. http://www.westsystem.com/ They have outlets in UK,AU and NZ. Good stuff.I have used it to glass bed a few muskets. Just about any dye can be used to color it.I use brown powder tempra paint.They have a great support group too.

Jim