• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Advice needed on mid-late 70's TC Hawk 28"b w/1:48t

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
May 6, 2024
Messages
30
Reaction score
11
Location
South West Missouri
Cleaned up rust bucked pawnshop find....and to my amazement shoots 385g Hornady GP conicals extreamy well, I mean only 2" high at 50yds when set dead on at 100yd....and have over half of elevation adjustment left šŸ¤ÆšŸ˜Æ...but won't shoot p&b wort a manure, but that's OK because the traditions I just built loves p&b.

Question:
I'm considering testing saboted 45's in it and need to know the approach to removing a ballistic tipped slug...

Reason:
When first I got into BP I remember the frustration and how hard it is to remove a p&b, and he shame when it happened at the range šŸ˜.....so will a ball screw bust its way threw and hit lead ?
 
Not having tried to pull a ballistic tip round, I suspect the pointed tip will deflect the screw point and not let it screw into the bullet. Shooing the bullet out with a light charge under the nipple or using a CO2 discharger may be your only option short of putting a zirk fitting in the nipple threads and using a grease gun to push the bullet out.
 
If you do get it screwed into the tip it will probably pull the tip out of the bullet.

Do like Eric suggested. I'm a frequent dryballer and have never used a puller.
 
Back
Top