Advice needed on mid-late 70's TC Hawk 28"b w/1:48t

[Hawken1820.50cal]

Cleaned up rust bucked pawnshop find....and to my amazement shoots 385g Hornady GP conicals extreamy well, I mean only 2" high at 50yds when set dead on at 100yd....and have over half of elevation adjustment left 🤯😯...but won't shoot p&b wort a manure, but that's OK because the traditions I just built loves p&b.

Question:
I'm considering testing saboted 45's in it and need to know the approach to removing a ballistic tipped slug...

Reason:
When first I got into BP I remember the frustration and how hard it is to remove a p&b, and he shame when it happened at the range 😝.....so will a ball screw bust its way threw and hit lead ?

 

[Eric Krewson]

Not having tried to pull a ballistic tip round, I suspect the pointed tip will deflect the screw point and not let it screw into the bullet. Shooing the bullet out with a light charge under the nipple or using a CO2 discharger may be your only option short of putting a zirk fitting in the nipple threads and using a grease gun to push the bullet out.

 

[longcruise]

If you do get it screwed into the tip it will probably pull the tip out of the bullet.

Do like Eric suggested. I'm a frequent dryballer and have never used a puller.

 

[Riggerjon]

I am betting the bullet would spin in the sabot before it was screwed in far enough to pull it.

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

I own nearly the same rifle. PRB wasn't happening no matter what I tried. Then on a whim one day I decided to put a lubed felt wad between the charge and the PRB. Presto, she's a tack driver now. I know you didn't ask about that. But, I wanted to let you know what I did to make PRBs work in the same rifle. 60 grns 3F, .490 ball and .015 patch.