Another Walker adjustment

[M. De Land]

Still learning the nuances of the new Uberti Walker I acquired last year I recently noticed that the trigger nose is contacting the half cock notch as the hammer falls with the addition of the action shield apparently. My guess of the cause is perhaps the added weight on the hammer or possibly interference fit of the shield in the hammer mortise or to heavy of a trigger return spring.
I'll post back with a cause and remedy when I get it all sorted out.

 

[M. De Land]

Still learning the nuances of the new Uberti Walker I acquired last year I recently noticed that the trigger nose is contacting the half cock notch as the hammer falls with the addition of the action shield apparently. My guess of the cause is perhaps the added weight on the hammer or possibly interference fit of the shield in the hammer mortise or to heavy of a trigger return spring.
I'll post back with a cause and remedy when I get it all sorted out.

I reduced the width (not thickness) of the trigger return spring and re-contoured (lowered) the nose of the half cock notch which greatly reduced the trigger nose contact with the half cock. It looks like the trigger return spring was so stiff it was pulling back the trigger nose, contact release length from full cock into making a bounce contact with the half cock nose as it passes over in full cycle. I may still add a leverage block into the curve (turn back) of the main spring to increase it's strength and thus speed as I learn the nuance and balance of fine Walker tuning.
I really like this pistol and the add on's installed.
It doesn't seem to need a cap rake but it's not out of the question if problems arise. Most interesting gun to work on and experiment with.
I really like the loading lever latch as it works very smoothly and locks the lever very securely in place with the most leverage possible, at it's tip.

 

[M. De Land]

I reduced the width (not thickness) of the trigger return spring and re-contoured (lowered) the nose of the half cock notch which greatly reduced the trigger nose contact with the half cock. It looks like the trigger return spring was so stiff it was pulling back the trigger nose, contact release length from full cock into making a bounce contact with the half cock nose as it passes over in full cycle. I may still add a leverage block into the curve (turn back) of the main spring to increase it's strength and thus speed as I learn the nuance and balance of fine Walker tuning.
I really like this pistol and the add on's installed.
It doesn't seem to need a cap rake but it's not out of the question if problems arise. Most interesting gun to work on and experiment with.

 

[M. De Land]

I reduced the width (not thickness) of the trigger return spring and re-contoured (lowered) the nose of the half cock notch which greatly reduced the trigger nose contact with the half cock. It looks like the trigger return spring was so stiff it was pulling back the trigger nose, contact release length from full cock into making a bounce contact with the half cock nose as it passes over in full cycle. I may still add a leverage block into the curve (turn back) of the main spring to increase it's strength and thus speed as I learn the nuance and balance of fine Walker tuning.
I really like this pistol and the add on's installed.
It doesn't seem to need a cap rake but it's not out of the question if problems arise. Most interesting gun to work on and experiment with.
I really like the loading lever latch as it works very smoothly and locks the lever very securely in place with the most leverage possible, at it's tip.

I may at some point just remove the Walker spring entirely and re-engineer/alter to a Dragoon type flat spring arrangement as the Walker spring has always felt mushy in the middle of the stroke to me. A single leaf flat spring will have a faster response time than does the original Walker design with the two legs and turn back V and very likely make a marked improvement in hammer speed.
I'll take photos and post them if I decide to make the alteration.

 

[bpd303]

I've never seen that type of loading lever latch, did it come from Uberti like that. Interesting to say the least.

 

[M. De Land]

I've never seen that type of loading lever latch, did it come from Uberti like that. Interesting to say the least.

I was praying for a good front latch idea and this is what God gave me ! True Story! I'm a home machinist with a lathe and mill.

 

[45D]

I may at some point just remove the Walker spring entirely and re-engineer/alter to a Dragoon type flat spring arrangement as the Walker spring has always felt mushy in the middle of the stroke to me. A single leaf flat spring will have a faster response time than does the original Walker design with the two legs and turn back V and very likely make a marked improvement in hammer speed.
I'll take photos and post them if I decide to make the alteration.

Have you reduced the cam height and blended the bottom of the cam to that of the hammer surface? That will make a smoother transition for the bolt arm (which should have a polished arc for the transition as well) and impart less drag on the hammer.
Of course polishing the contact surfaces between the main spring and radius in the hammer will make an improvement. This contact patch moves from the rear of the radius towards the middle as the hammer is cycled back. Therefore the contact patch moves to the rear of the radius cut as the hammer moves forward, which actually speeds up the hammer with a camming effect. Watching this happen is exactly where I got the idea of bending the very end of flat mains upwards to speed up the hammer right at the end of its travel.
Just some food for thought . . .

Mike

PS You could also remove some weight . . .

 

[M. De Land]

Have you reduced the cam height and blended the bottom of the cam to that of the hammer surface? That will make a smoother transition for the bolt arm (which should have a polished arc for the transition as well) and impart less drag on the hammer.
Of course polishing the contact surfaces between the main spring and radius in the hammer will make an improvement. This contact patch moves from the rear of the radius towards the middle as the hammer is cycled back. Therefore the contact patch moves to the rear of the radius cut as the hammer moves forward, which actually speeds up the hammer with a camming effect. Watching this happen is exactly where I got the idea of bending the very end of flat mains upwards to speed up the hammer right at the end of its travel.
Just some food for thought . . .

Mike

PS You could also remove some weight . . .
View attachment 363227

Good ideas, thanks, I love to hear about these tweeks ! The added resistance and weight of the action shield and securing rivet I used made a noticeable change in the hammer speed that I noted from before and after. I could have compensated with some holes but didn't want to create more fouling traps. I'm increasingly thinking about altering to a single leaf main spring like in the later models which will speed hammer fall as well.
These Walkers are fascinating critters !

 

[M. De Land]

I reduced the width (not thickness) of the trigger return spring and re-contoured (lowered) the nose of the half **** notch which greatly reduced the trigger nose contact with the half ****. It looks like the trigger return spring was so stiff it was pulling back the trigger nose, contact release length from full **** into making a bounce contact with the half **** nose as it passes over in full cycle. I may still add a leverage block into the curve (turn back) of the main spring to increase it's strength and thus speed as I learn the nuance and balance of fine Walker tuning.
I really like this pistol and the add on's installed.
It doesn't seem to need a cap rake but it's not out of the question if problems arise. Most interesting gun to work on and experiment with.
I really like the loading lever latch as it works very smoothly and locks the lever very securely in place with the most leverage possible, at it's tip.

Into the guts of the Walker again and found that the main spring is making contact with the grip at the bend back. A bit of chisel work took care of that.
Doing some more trigger nose, full cock notch fitting, to get the trigger I like.
Some pictures of the trigger spring reduction.

 

[M. De Land]

Into the guts of the Walker again and found that the main spring is making contact with the grip at the bend back. A bit of chisel work took care of that.
Doing some more trigger nose, full **** notch fitting, to get the trigger I like.
Some pictures of the trigger spring reduction.

I'm expecting this trigger spring to fail eventually any way and will make one of the stainless ones I have installed on some of my other guns when the factory ones give up after time and use. I do like to smooth and radius the edges on the factory jobs to make them last as long as possible and some of them are still going strong after quite a few years but most of then give up the ghost eventually.

 

[M. De Land]

Into the guts of the Walker again and found that the main spring is making contact with the grip at the bend back. A bit of chisel work took care of that.
Doing some more trigger nose, full cock notch fitting, to get the trigger I like.
Some pictures of the trigger spring reduction.

Well after some tweaking I finally got the Walker working like she ought to. With the main spring interference on the grip removed , the action shield shortened just a bit and the trigger nose angle changed a few degrees I wound up with a 2 lbs, no creep trigger that cannot be jarred off, tested with my rawhide hammer impact test.
The grip channel, wood interference removal with the main spring sped up the hammer to miss the half cock notch so will not need to alter the main spring after all. I enjoy the tuning, unraveling and learning the nuances that each model presents unique to the design.
This Walker is just plain fun to own, shoot and work on. Now for load development and front sight regulation.
If I decide to ream the chamber mouths I'll post back with some more pictures and discussion of that process.

 

[M. De Land]

Well after some tweaking I finally got the Walker working like she ought to. With the main spring interference on the grip removed , the action shield shortened just a bit and the trigger nose angle changed a few degrees I wound up with a 2 lbs, no creep trigger that cannot be jarred off, tested with my rawhide hammer impact test.
The grip channel, wood interference removal with the main spring sped up the hammer to miss the half cock notch so will not need to alter the main spring after all. I enjoy the tuning, unraveling and learning the nuances that each model presents unique to the design.
This Walker is just plain fun to own, shoot and work on. Now for load development and front sight regulation.
If I decide to ream the chamber mouths I'll post back with some more pictures and discussion of that process.

Oh, I forgot to address needing to make a holster and one of those take down tools with screw driver, nipple wrench and mainspring clamp for reassembly that used to come with the guns.

 

[nick_1]

It seems like the walker is an almost carbine sized pistol? any plans to make this rig accurate at 100yrds? or more?

 

[M. De Land]

It seems like the walker is an almost carbine sized pistol? any plans to make this rig accurate at 100yrds? or more?

I never considered that. I generally set them up for 25 and 50 yard competition but with this good Patridge front it probably could be regulated for that. The big draw back now is the crude V notch rear sight in the hammer nose. I wonder if a rear fold down aperture could be fabricated in some fashion to clear the hammer and not interfere with ones grip.
I have an ghost ring aperture I fabricated on a .54 caplock horse pistol that works really well.
Perhaps a tiny ghost ring aperture, dovetail milled or sweated into the top of the hammer nose hood in lieu of the notch might work without looking to goofy or interfering with hammer speed to clear the half cock. That is how I affixed the aperture into a standard adjustable rear sight on the horse pistol shown. Hummm, something worth chewing on a bit but I sure would hate to ruin a perfectly good hammer on the experiment. On the other hand I have a TIG weldor and can case color/harden.
All the elevation for additional yardage could be set up in the front blade with Elmer Kieth's gold/brass bars dovetailed in the front blade ramp but not sure if that could be made to work with only an aperture. The gold bars elevation scheme was designed to work with the top flat of the rear sight which is impractical in the hammer nose hood.