antler handles

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jasontn

40 Cal.
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i just got a nice batch of mule and whitetail antlers and have been making some knives out of them. i slot my antlers with a large cut off wheel on my dremel i get em close to size then finish up with sandpaper, files, and womens nail files. depending on the blade i put one or two 3/32 pins in them and peen them over. heres where my problems begin. i use a little epoxy prior to pinning to help hold it all together. my slots arent perfectly straight and are sometimes a tad wavy , showing gaps against the tang. i use c clamps to clamp everything down while the epoxy sets up. after its cured i remove the clamps and peen my pins over. during the final wet snding of my handle the gaps i had clamped over sometimes re open. im wondering if my pins are too short or not peened over tight enuff? or is the problem from my uneven slots in the handle? i plan on buying a scroll saw later on to cut the slots. im thinking its the antler swelling from moisture maybe causing the gaps to reopen, but im not sure. after its all said and done i have been filling the gaps which are maybe 1/32 or so with beeswax. another thing im wondering is this a commmon occurence or is it just my building procedures? how much gap is acceptable?or is this just a learing curve i have to navigate? any imformation is greatly appreciated guys thanks
jason
 
heres a few photos one overall and one of each side of the handle gaps are real plain in one
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Try taping together some hacksaw blades until you get the thickness of your tang then cut the slot.Also countersink the pin holes and try a thicker pin, I use 3/16" copper wire or soft iron blacksmith rivets with the head cut off.
 
Jason- 1st off NICE LOOKING BLADE. The gaps aren't that bad. What type of epoxy are you using? I've found that 2 part white works well when using antler,the color blends well. Make sure that your slot is the same width at both ends, if it is smaller at the back it will make the sides spring open ,creating the gap. Even w/ the pin heads peened it is a small bearing surface, you might try a small washer under the peened head. This will create more pressure to hold the handle tight to the tang. If you look at originals gaps are pretty normal as long as evrything is solid shouldn't be a problem. The only downside is blood , fluids , ect can seep into gap affecting the antler(being porous)and causing it to rot or the tang to rust. Everything considered the knife in the pic is a very good looking I really like the blade shape. Wild Eagle
 
Hi Jason, you might see if a drywall saw will give you a closer fit with your blade thickness. I have a couple that are perfect for the 3/32s O1 steel I use for the same type knife you are making. I clamp them up and leave them for 24hrs, and they stay nice and tight. I also fill in slight gaps with some grinding dust from my grinder while the epoxy is still "sticky". it helps hide a gap and just adds to the grungy used look.
 
thanks guys ill try a different size and length pin next time. i use 2 part cream colored epoxy from wal mart. i do put dust in mine too wondered if nayone else did. the blade is an old case xx kitchen knife. i sanded off its chromium outer finsih so i coule darken the carbon blade up some. thanks again guys
 
That is a good looking knife. Your pins are too small for that large a knife. Move up to 1/8" iron, welding rod, brass and copper were rarely used in the 18th c., countersink slightly, and have enough rod to make a large head. Your gaps do not look that bad to me. An original would not be perfect either, but I would fill them in well with epoxy to seal off the tang from moisture. This knife shown is a very large affair, with an eleven inch blade. On this one I used 3/16" pins
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thanks wick i think next time ill leave them clamped a couple days. i put the beeswax in it after the fact ill get some bigger pins too i need to get better tools too all i have to do stuff with is a dremel tool and some swiss needle files love the knife you posted, have long admired your work
thanks jason
 
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