muzzleloadingat18
40 Cal
I was thinking of using a .50 to 44 cal sabot with a patched 36cal round ball inside of it.
Any ideas on how i canbuse a .50 hawken for squirrels
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I had a .50 TC Renegade that was incredibly accurate with a patched ball. I killed a lot of squirrels with at 25 yards or less by loading it down to the point that it hardly went bang, more of a BLOOP. I made head shots with it with no problems. This was 40 years ago so I don't remember how much 2F I used but I think it was 15 gr or so.
When I head shot a squirrel the ball would only cut a neat crescent out of the skull where it hit and not blow the head off.
When I head shot a squirrel the ball would only cut a neat crescent out of the skull where it hit and not blow the head off.
muzzleloadingat18
40 Cal
I'm trying to avoid slinging that much lead for the sake of efficiency. I dont want to waste that much lead any other ideas?
When I had a 50 cal. TC Hawken squirrels were legal during the early muzzleloader deer season. I was loaded for deer, I just tried for head shots. Even when I missed and hit the chest area the damage wasn't that great. Just a round hole through the chest.
Bark 'em.
If there's one thing on my bucket list, this is it
So I did that 3 times with my .54, as an experiment
My hunting buddy then said, "Hey Dave, where do those round balls go when you have shot upwards through the small branch the squirrel is walking across?"
Since where I hunt is surrounded by other properties and I couldn't answer the question, I haven't done that since.
LD
If ya don't shoot off their heads with a normal, patched round ball, or bark them, that leaves getting a smoothbore barrel, or having your barrel reamed smooth bore, and using shot.
LD
muzzleloadingat18
40 Cal
So no one thinks a patched 36 in a 50 would work. Barrel is a 1in48 twist same twist as some 36 squirrel rifles.
It's doubtful that you're going to be able to impart a spin on the ball, so the accuracy will falter.
Have you considered maybe getting a .36 Cap-n-ball revolver, and carrying that when you take your .50 into the woods? (Hey it's an excuse for another, and different type of BP gun.)
LD
muzzleloadingat18
40 Cal
Even with 3 or 4 patches to get it up to size. I'll just have to try ot some time. I can guess all I want but the proof is in the pudding
Flint Striker
40 Cal
You could try a .40 ball with a sabot. The ball has to press out against the sabot hard enough to engage the rifling. A .36 probably won’t press out enough, but a .40 might. You might find someone here who could sell you a partial box cheap if you ask.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Only the base needs to engage the rifling.
@muzzleloadingat18 I sent the PM without reading the whole topic.
@muzzleloadingat18 I sent the PM without reading the whole topic.
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There's really only one way to find out... Might work out great for you.
25 grains 2f
Even with 3 or 4 patches to get it up to size. I'll just have to try ot some time. I can guess all I want but the proof is in the pudding
Well, the problem is gripping of the ball. Multiple layers means multiple places for the grip to slip.
On the other hand you might try a piece of leather with the outer side greased for lubrication against the barrel, instead. Genuine Chamois from the auto parts store, or deer hide might be just the right thickness and compression to take up the gap, and give your projectile the grip needed to impart the spin.
LD
Wasting lead? Lead is cheap, in reality your best bet is to buy a squirrel caliber rifle so you can get more bang for your buck as far as lead and powder is concerned, this also gives you a valid reason to buy another rifle, we all need another one.
Sneak up on them and club them with your rifle
muzzleloadingat18
40 Cal
Lead is cheap but I load and cast for things outside of black powder. And I'm a stickler for efficiency. And a flintlock squirrel rifle is just too much $
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