Anybody done this? Probably

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Just shoot it. That smooths the barrel a little each time you fire. Plus cleaning puts a
little wear. We all like to putter around, but if it shoots as it should-just use it.
The big issue is not machine marks that may be optical mainly, it is what to do to
smooth out minor corrosion pits and defects in salvaging a shooter. The duelist 1954
Mike has a good easy treatment--as is the paste and 0000 wool but I wouldn't
pay no mind to it as the deer I hit would not see any difference.
 
I had the same issue with My Lyman GPR 50cal Used some fine emery paper wrapped around the jag and passed up and down 50 times, made me feel better but didn`t do much to help. Finally I tried a tight patch so a ticking patch with a layer of old cotton bed sheet on top before placing the ball. patches come out as you could use them again and group is almost hole in hole at 50 meters. Hell I was surprised and pleased at the same time.
 
My new Dixie 54 Hawken is still occasionally shredding patches. 60 grains of 2f T7 with .18 pillowticking. Certainly not too much powder. I noticed I can see some fine machine marks on the lands. Thinking about lubing some patches with JB bore paste and shooting a few with RB's. Think it'll help?
There is a fellow on YouTube who is putting a patch down over the powder and then inserting a patched round ball on top of that. His patches come out flawlessly... look perfect every time and his groups are fantastic to say the least. Might try that.
 
I had a Judge Resley barrel, who taught Bill Large to make barrels, that was terrible with shredding patches. I fired around 400 rounds hoping it would smooth up, no luck. I used valve grinding compound on patches, and used a very small charge of powder to fire. After a dozen shots, it no longer cut patches, and accuracy improved.
 
While I've never had that kind of trouble with a rifle bore, I have had occasion to use a Scotch Bright patch or a bit of 0000 steel wool. Placing a wad or a dry patch over the powder and under the prb does work very well. I've done that before but the things (2) that made the difference was polishing the crown down to around 1/8th" in the bore. After that was done I tested patch material and have had best luck with heavy canvas (.024") or denim. The fired patches can be reused. Occasionally a barrel may really like something like "mattress ticking" (.017" to .18").
 
  • Well I got out and shot it about 25- 30 rounds today. I'm starting to find more patches in pretty good shape. I gave it about 100 passes with JB and tight patches. There are no tight or rough spots in that barrel, I can say that for sure! She feels mighty smooth. Shot out to 90 yards today. I finally center punched the red spot in the target on the last shot. It was time to quit! :)
 
I,ve used toothpaste for a gentle polishing compound. I was satisfied w/ how it worked -as a final step, after using Scotchbrite patches and 0000 steel wool, wrapped around an undersized bronze brush. It worked well w/ out keeping the polishing patches "patched ball" tight; just snug.
The process was an exercise in patience but not seem physically strenuous (and I'm an old fart).
 
My body can't handle a couple hundred passes up and down the barrel with a jag, elbows are shot and back isn't great.
I'm starting to find more patches in pretty good shape. I gave it about 100 passes with JB and tight patches.
I feel bad ya had ta dog me about it, and i'm sorry about your physical condition.
But glad you took "some" advice from the forum members and have found some improvement
 
New to this site and to ML. I've seen may posts on torn or ragged patches.WHY? What is the concern am I supposed to reuse the patches? I assumed ...powder goes in ...lubed patch and ball go in... pan gets primed (flintlock) ...hammer goes full cocked... squeeze trigger.. flint sparks...pan ignites...boom stick goes boom >I know barrels are rifled and rarely perfectly smooth even modern button rifled barrels aren't perfectly smooth .It takes time and rounds down range to smooth rifling (fire lapping) sans manually working the barrels.But what it this issue with patch condition post firing? Please forgive my ignorance I would like to learn
 
@colimr, the torn or shredded patches are telling us a lot about the total quality of the relationship of the patch and ball to the barrel as the round is fired. The patch serves a vital part in matching the ball to the lands and filling the grooves to minimize gas leakage. The patch holds lubricant to keep fouling soft to reuse patches that have been shot, but and in some cases to push the fouling down the barrel during loading to keep the barrel in a consistent condition from shot to shot for better accuracy. No, we are not to be that frugal to reuse patches that have been shot. It has been done but not recommended. We want to see a patch that does not have tears indicating that the patch is doing its job to hold the bullet securely on the lands and sealing the bore.
 
When a patch is completely shredded chances are that ball isn't going where you aim. The ball has lost it's seal and doesn't have powder gas only pushing from behind, so it's no longer stable. That's why I look for patches.
 
As the ball isn't aerodynamic compared to a bullet ,does the patch do any more to affect accuracy then maintain speed compared to the speed a major league pitchers throws the ball to get it to the batter before atmospheric resistance affects the accuracy of the ball? Sorrry for the long winded form
 
@colimr, the torn or shredded patches are telling us a lot about the total quality of the relationship of the patch and ball to the barrel as the round is fired. The patch serves a vital part in matching the ball to the lands and filling the grooves to minimize gas leakage. The patch holds lubricant to keep fouling soft to reuse patches that have been shot, but and in some cases to push the fouling down the barrel during loading to keep the barrel in a consistent condition from shot to shot for better accuracy. No, we are not to be that frugal to reuse patches that have been shot. It has been done but not recommended. We want to see a patch that does not have tears indicating that the patch is doing its job to hold the bullet securely on the lands and sealing the bore.
Truly stated.
 
I,ve used toothpaste for a gentle polishing compound. I was satisfied w/ how it worked -as a final step, after using Scotchbrite patches and 0000 steel wool, wrapped around an undersized bronze brush. It worked well w/ out keeping the polishing patches "patched ball" tight; just snug.
The process was an exercise in patience but not seem physically strenuous (and I'm an old fart).
(Joke) Uh, oh, someone will start thread about using BP for toothpaste, now! :)
 
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