Anyone else have sore raw fingertips

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hockeyref

40 Cal.
Joined
Dec 16, 2008
Messages
250
Reaction score
44
Just whining here. I did some repairs, reinforcements, and modifications to the bag I made a few years ago… all I’m gonna say is that the upholstery needles and the needle on my speedy-stitch awl are dang sharp. They will easily cut you and if you dont pay attention you will have pink stitching instead of white/tan. 😩😖😢😭🥺
 
Unfortunately some blood does come with the territory. But I do my leather work on an old wooden cutting board and keep a couple of wood scraps handy. Both surfaces can be used to help push needles through. Also use a small pair of pliers to pull stubborn needles through. I don't do a lot of leather work so I need lots of crutches.
 
I also use a pair of flat pliers to help pull the needle through the leather. Seems my arthritis in the base of my my thumbs makes it harder to do that by hand. I definitely poke my self a few times while sewing leather. I have several thimbles that will fit my fingers.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 
Just whining here. I did some repairs, reinforcements, and modifications to the bag I made a few years ago… all I’m gonna say is that the upholstery needles and the needle on my speedy-stitch awl are dang sharp. They will easily cut you and if you dont pay attention you will have pink stitching instead of white/tan. 😩😖😢😭🥺

Give your Significant other the upholstery needles and buy some harness needles; they have rounded points and won't go through the other thread in a saddle stitch. Ditch the speedy stitcher awl and learn how to sew leather without it. You won't need near as many band aids and the work will go much smoother and faster.
 
When I first began leather working I used plyers but not so much anymore, I've found that a good sharp glovers needle doesn't need much to be pulled from the back side once the blades have cut the leather.
I don't use an awl of any kind with my work only punches, harness, and glovers needles but glovers needles are very sharp and it's easy to stick yourself with one.
 
Give your Significant other the upholstery needles and buy some harness needles; they have rounded points and won't go through the other thread in a saddle stitch. Ditch the speedy stitcher awl and learn how to sew leather without it. You won't need near as many band aids and the work will go much smoother and faster.
Dont have a stitch wheel, always wanted one. I draw the pattern in pencil and use a leather hole punch with rotating head using the smallest punch to layout the stitch on the thicker stuff. The bag I was messing with is an abomination that stitched together from pieces of a too large thrift store purse years ago and is not quite work glove thick. I wanted to use the cutting point on the stitcher rather than punching holes in it. I was too casual with the sharp point sticking out there while pulling string executing the actual stitch…. I added a strip of old belt on the back for stiffness and another strip to the front flap to button it down.

Half of the needle set I have does have rounded tips.

Been wanting to hit up Tandy for some leather to make a new bag and flint/tool wallet. Just haven’t done it yet.
 
I have often used my dremel with a teeny drill bit to drill evenly spaced holes through the layers of leather and the leather welt on knife sheaths. The sheath gets really thick and it makes it easier to do the saddle stitch as the needle has less resistance. That hawk sheath has been pre-drilled.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 

Attachments

  • stitch.JPG
    stitch.JPG
    818.6 KB
Last edited:
I'm in my seventh decade and each decade starting at about the fourth, I've had to use my small, medium and large pliers more and more. For your leather work, I've used a scratch awl to start the hole. Of course, I have found using thimbles, also helps. I, also, have an assortment of leather scraps, wood assortment and assorted needles. I have all that stored in a 50 cal. ammo box, the high strength polymer or plastic kind. Light weight but STRONG. Even labeled it, LEATHER REPAIR. Got tired of searching for what i needed, so now it is in one place, one box. I've also soaked my skin pricks, irritations in a solution of table salt and warm water. Enough salt to make the solution cloudy. You guessed it, at the start a little fire but very soothing after awhile. Heal quick and no infections. One other piece of advice, IF YOU CAN'T STAND THE PAIN, GET OUT OF MUZZLELOADING, IT'S NOT YOUR CUP OF TEA. THE THRILL OF VICTORY (GOT THAT 12 POINTER) THE AGONY OF DEFEAT (MISSED IT A COUNTRY MILE). I compare MUZZLELOADING to life, you'll always have your ups and downs. The one saying that always made sense to me, GET 'ER DONE!!
 
As an aside, years ago I was told that a project wasn't "yours" until there was blood shed on it. Take it for what that's worth.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...be well.

snapper
 
Harness needles 👍🏼

Glover’s needles. 👎🏼 Only when nothing else will work. I stick myself every time I use a Glover’s needle.

If the project lends itself to it, I oftentimes use a 4 in line punch (1/16”) to pre-punch the holes. Tandy has’em…. And after the first hour or so, a small pair of flat pliers to pull the needle thru.

image.jpg
 
I do a fair amount of leatherwork using various weight leathers. My sailor's palm is well over 50 years old and has been put to good use.
 
Back
Top