Anyone help on scotch bright

[Old-Duckman]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P16XK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the finest of the 3 step "bodyman" scuff pads that I purchased from Amazon. I use this one for the final several (sometimes more than several) coats of Tru-Oil. They come in a roll and I cut the perforated sheet into 4 pieces. They get loaded up with finish pretty quickly.

Regarding Steel wool, I sometimes still use it and the ONLY 0000 brand that is truly 0000 IMO is Elephant Brand, I have a 5 pound roll of it. when I use steel wool, I brush off the steel bits with a quality paint brush and then blow the stock down with air from my airbrush and finish that off with lightly moving a tack rag over the wood. I do not get steel wool "hairs" using this method.

 

[bronko220002]

I always used fine 0000 steel wool and never had an issue. After buffing I wipe the stock down with a damp cloth with mineral spirits. I tried tack cloths but they just don't cut it.

 

[Master Blaster]

As stated above:

 

[appalichian hunter]

Anyone ever try rotten stone. Between applications.

 

[garypl]

Anyone ever try rotten stone. Between applications.

I have rottenstone and pumice and used them with paraffin oil and a felt block to rub out lacquer finishes when I was building furniture. They allow you to polish the finish and end up with a very smooth surface.

You could use them on rifle stocks but I think it would be overkill and cleaning the residue from the nooks and crannies in a rifle stock would be a pain in my opinion.

 

[ZUG]

I use rottenstone to reduce the shine/gloss of some finishes. I mix it with water and use a cotton ball wrapped in a piece of nylon stocking to apply it to the stock. I also sometimes dip this cotton ball into some of the powder rottenstone to give it a bit more "bite" but you got to be careful because it does cut fast.