Aqua Fortis

[Crewdawg445]

Strong water! As the title states has anyone ever made their own concoction of aqua fortis to satin their stocks?

I know as most probably have done, they simply have purchased a bottle. Yet I'm deciding on making my own and would like to hear from you more seasoned individuals. :hatsoff:

 

[rich pierce]

Sure. Get some concentrated nitric acid and add 1 part slowly to 3 parts of distiller water or clean rainwater. Work outside. Use pottery or glass or strong plastic container with a good lid. Do not fill past 2/3 to maybe 3/4 full. A Mason jar for example. Mix by stirring. Allow to cool. Add some iron to it. The finer the iron the faster the reaction. Fast is not better. I use rusty smaller nails. Add a few and let it work. If they dissolve completely add more. Eventually it will be sated and saturated. Decant into the keeper jar or bottle. Do not cap tightly for at least a week.

 

[Pete G]

Also be aware that the fumes from this stuff will rust any ferrous metal it comes in contact with, almost instantly it seems.

 

[Col. Batguano]

+1. the oxidizing iron gives off a poisonous gas. Use in a well ventilated space (like outside) It wouldn't hurt to wear a respirator mask while you're doing it too.

 

[user 922]

I remember reading that you add water to the acid, never add acid to the water.

 

[Black Hand]

The red-brown gas/fumes produced are toxic. Make certain you have plenty of ventilation.

All that said - I buy mine as it is cheaper, quicker, easier and you don't have the ATF wondering if you are making explosives...

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
If you use the search function on this web site you will find many, many threads on aqua fortis. The advice given by Rich, CB, and Pete is all good. For the record, "aqua fortis" means loud or strong water and refers just to nitric acid historically. Mixing iron filings into "aqua fortis" to create a stain goes back at least to the 12th century. The commercially sold aqua fortis stain is nitric acid, water, plus iron. I've used aqua fortis and aqua fortis plus iron on many guns. I don't use it anymore. Now, I buy ferric nitrate powder from the Science Company and mix that with water. It creates the same chemical solution as aqua fortis plus iron but the acid component is much weaker. The advantage of using the powder is that you can easily adjust the concentration to meet your color goals and adapt to different woods. In addition, you can dissolve the powder in alcohol instead of water if you want a nongrain raising stain.

dave

 

[Crewdawg445]

Excellent gents, yes I'm very aware the fumes are certainly nasty! Deadly if not taken seriously. Nitric acid is not a chemical to take lightly.

I'm very interested in your ferric nitrate approach Mr. Dave, will definitely look into that.

Thanks for the replies and information again, the search function for some reason never works correctly for me. I'll admit I'm not the most intelligent when it comes to the technology and computer use but thats okay!

 

[George]

I remember reading that you add water to the acid, never add acid to the water.

ABSOLUTELY WRONG!!!

If you do that the acid will explode into your face. It's just the opposite, ALWAYS PUT THE ACID INTO THE WATER.

Spence

 

[talkingamoeba]

I remember reading that you add water to the acid, never add acid to the water.

ABSOLUTELY WRONG!!!

If you do that the acid will explode into your face. It's just the opposite, ALWAYS PUT THE ACID INTO THE WATER.

Spence

Acid to water is correct.
http://chemistry.about.com/od/labsafety/fl/Do-You-Add-Acid-to-Water-or-Water-to-Acid.htm

 

[Crewdawg445]

Good call! Didn't catch that, as I honestly didn't read it... essentially the same thing when making soap when adding lye to water, not water to lye!

Yes, don't add water to acid... essentially your making a super concentrated acid solution that generates a large amount of heat and energy, it's gotta go someplace and usually the results are extremely negative.

 

[alex efremenko]

I still remember what my eighth grade science teacher said.
''Do as you outta,add acid to water''

 

[Paul R]

Finding a source for the acid can sometimes be difficult. If there is a 'stained glass' shop near by,get a bottle of the solution used for 'blackening' the lead solder when finishing a project. I use it straight from the bottle, in a glass jar, with some cut nails salvaged from an old house.
My results have been good, but always try on a scrap of stock wood because YMMV. Wood, of the same kind, from different trees will react differently.
Paul

 

[Bo T]

Add the acid slowly so the heat that is generated doesn't cause the solution to boil. If you add it too rapidly it can still boil over.

 

[Pete G]

Acid to water, just like you orter.

 

[buffcreekforge]

The old chemistry mnemonic "Acid to water, just like you oughter". Reversed can cause serious problems!

I remain your humble servant,

Just Dave :shocked2:

 

[Crewdawg445]

Add the acid slowly so the heat that is generated doesn't cause the solution to boil. If you add it too rapidly it can still boil over.

Common sense if one knows what he or she is doing.

 

[Billnpatti]

I remember reading that you add water to the acid, never add acid to the water.

WRONG! WRONG! WRONG! NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. When water and a strong acid come into contact, it forms an exothermic reaction. That means that it gets hot. If one adds water to the acid, the reaction can form steam and blow the acid out of the container. By slowly adding the acid to the water with stirring, the water tends to absorb the heat generated and is less likely to form an explosive amount of steam.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
If you use ferric nitrate, you don't have to worry about of this stuff.

dave

 

[Billnpatti]

Hi,
If you use ferric nitrate, you don't have to worry about of this stuff.

dave

This is true and the ferric nitrate would be my choice, too.