Aquafortis vs lmf stain

[philip]

I read about issues with aquafortis. going too dark , turning green, and causing rust
I am tempted to just use stain on my kibler smr with plain maple

 

[billraby]

Aquafortis is the only option. Especially with plain maple. It can turn plain maple into not quite so plain anymore. Stain won't do that.

 

[rich pierce]

The green is not from ferric nitrate. It’s from chromium trioxide known as magic maple. It’s from the wizard of Oz. Never use it. It’s sale should be banned.

Over the course of 40 years of use, analine dye stains will often fade. AQF, neutralized if a form with residual acidity is used, will not fade or darken over 40 years of use.

 

[Sean E Bug]

aqua fortis is great on maple and ash. it will never fade and not difficult to use. wipe it on and let it dry. it will give it a horrible green color till it is blushed. then in needs to be neutralized. it is wise to try it on a test piece or two. try it at different solution and also finishing with different oil tung vs. BLO. its only downside is that you have little control over the actual color.

 

[Fly Navy]

I use both. I start with Kiblers iron nitrate, and after blushing I use LMF Lancaster maple or maple depending on the color I want. After that Tried & True until the grain is filled.

 

[tenngun]

I’ve tried several times, never had good results
But
It is the best looking when done right, I just never got good at it
Laurel mountains stain here:

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

My last go to method has been kiblers iron nitrate followed by one or several colors of lmf to get what ever color i like on that particular day.