Are the older Lyman GPR better?

[Doug Lykins]

Are the older, (30 years) Great Plains Rifles any better than those currently produced? I have a chance to buy one but the owner claims it's a better rifle and he basically wants a new price for it. It appears unfired. I'm new at this, all advice, no matter how elementary, will be appreciated.

 

[jtmattison]

I know the older ones had a 1:66 twist barrel instead of the 1:60 used today. Also the under ribs were soldered on instead of bolted on. Other than that I don't know how they are different.

Is it worthy of the price of a new production GPR? I think not. If it's 30 years old I'd offer him a deal according to it's condition.

HD

 

[cowpoke1955]

I have to agree with Dawg. I have a .54 GPR percussion I bought in 1980 and a .54 GPR flint I built from a kit a couple of years ago. Both shoot great with patched round balls. Neither is better than the other. I would lean towards the new one. That way you would have the Lyman warranty, if the need arises. If he is willing to give you a deal on the older one, then go for it. Have you checked the prices at Midsouth Shooters? http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ Good luck.

 

[Dave K]

My 50cal. GPR was bought by me in '79. The proof dates also have it made in '79. It is a 1-60 twist and the ramrod thimbles are sweat on. I have no idea if it is better or not than the newer ones. But, if the gun looks like new inside and out, I would assume it's value would be the same as any GPR, regardless of age. Heck, if you can save $50 bucks over a new one, save your money and buy the lesser priced one.

 

[tg]

"My 50cal. GPR was bought by me in '79. The proof dates also have it made in '79."

That is an early one, it was about that time they switched from the shorter plains rifle to the great plains rifle.

 

[statz54]

Hello... Kinda new around here... Just got my first Great Plains rifle.. .50 cal, capper, used. Just wonder, how can you tell when it was proofed? The under rib is soldered on. The barrel is in sad shape... going to see if I can't find another one cheep somewhere. Knowing proof dates would help find a newer barrel.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[cowpoke1955]

Welcome to the forum. Check out Midsouth Shooters for a new barrel. Here's the link: http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ .

 

[BobKrohn]

Link to a PDF on Italian proofmarks.
https://store.bluebookinc.com/Info/PDF/POWDER/MBPProofmarks.pdf

 

[mykeal]

The date code will be stamped on the bottom barrel flat near the breech end. Two letters in a square box. The .pdf file above has the table to decode the letters.

 

[statz54]

Thank you for the information... looks like I have one from 1981.

Chris

 

[AeroncaTAL]

Welcome Pilgrim! You say that the barrel is in sad shape. In what way? Does the bore have a lot of pitting? Maybe what you need to do is to clean it out good. Might still be a shooter. Or, if'n you don't want it, send it my way... :grin:
Scott

 

[statz54]

I tried cleaning it up. At frist it would tear up cleaing patches. I've used steal wool on a cleaning jag... that helped some. Also used some valve grinding compound on a tight patch. Next I'm going to use the valve grinding compound on some old Maxi Hunter slugs and fire lap it...see if that helps any. If that don't work I'll build myself a Green Mountain barel for it. I just got a Hunter barrel for it off Ebay. Just want one of each :wink:
Chris

 

[renovato]

Valve grinding compound on conicals is a fast way to ruin a barrel. If you want to firelap the bore, you'd be better off just getting proper firelapping compound. You can find it at Brownells, Midway, etc. Also, if you use a conical that expands into the rifling upon firing, you'll be sure to get a very slight taper from breech to muzzle, which is conducive to accuracy. Loading a tight fitting firelapping buller from the muzzle is a good way to taper the bore the wrong way, where it becomes slightly looser at the muzzle, rather than tighter.