8 BORE
50 Cal.
Since that will probably be the hottest part of the gun when fired, find anti seizing heat resistant grease . The container or tube it comes in should say. Just make sure not to get any over the hole in the bottom of the nipple
Stuck nipples, like spark plugs, people get them way too tight. Should just be "snug", like...a...spark plug.Silicone grease is good for high temperatures. It also does not have anything in it that can combine with black powder fouling to make a gum or hard deposit.
It or a good "anti-seize", available at all automotive supply stores will work fine.
As for stuck nipples, this is a problem that is common on many cap & ball revolvers made by all of the companies.
Yeah, this is true. I always remove the rammer from a new revolver purchase and take a ball mill to it for a hemisphere end seat.The ball can be no larger than the chamber diameter. If you load a slightly oversize ball such that it shaves a ring of lead all the way around then the portion of the ball in contact with the chamber wall is an exact fit and seals. If the chamber mouth is slightly beveled so that it doesn't shave but swages the ball down slightly then the ball is the same diameter as the chamber. I shot my first revolver in '71 and have 20 some and I've won quite a number of matches with them. I have never seen any evidence of a ball being "smooshed" while being loaded and I question if compressing the powder charge wouldn't cushion the force needed (if it's even avaliable using the lever) enough that the ball wouldn't be "smooshed". Anyway obtaining a good seal between the ball and chamber wall is not an issue so long as the ball fits tight enough to need the lever or a press to seat it. I trust you will choose a ball slightly over chamber diameter and you'll never have a problem unless it's the force required to seat a hard ball. BTW, I have seen grip frames bent from excessive pressure loading with the grip resting on a bench.
Disclaimer: I have seen the front of balls deformed somewhat by a poorly matched loading lever end, specially that odd one on Uberti Remingtons.
Petrolium greases will work in the nipple threads. Though you might get your gun almost hot enough to burn you it will still be below the temperatures necessary to burn/carbonize the grease and being between the nipple and cylinder or breach it isn't exposed to flame. Now having said that I still recomend an anti-sieze compound. The point I tried to make is that other things will work in a pinch and are usually better than nothing. Crisco and Bore Butter will melt and run at the temperatures the cylinder will reach without even shooting fast. I once tried Bore Butter over the ball on a 90 degree day and it melted and ran all over the revolver before I even fired a shot.So most any good grade of grease as long as its not petroleum based right? I'm guessing vegetable based stuff like crisco would last long due to the heat?
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