ASM 1851 Navy revolver

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Since that will probably be the hottest part of the gun when fired, find anti seizing heat resistant grease . The container or tube it comes in should say. Just make sure not to get any over the hole in the bottom of the nipple
 
Any grease is better than none, I'd go with the silicone. Pick up a small bottle of anti-sieze at the hardware store or auto parts place when you get a chance. A little is a lifetime supply. Don't overtighten, thumb and 1 finger on the nipple wrench is enough. The torque spec for an oiled 6X1mm 8.8 grade bolt is only about 6 ft.-lbs. Beware, opening a bottle of anti-sieze is like eating a 7-11 hot dog w/mustard while driving to a very important job interview in a 3 piece suit .

I have used chasis grease, wheel bearing grease, brake grease, teflon tape, possibly other things and have put them in dry over the years and never had any problems. It sometimes depended on where I was and what was on hand. Heat resistance is not an issue at all. Anti-sieze is best though.
 
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I'm taking this slow and absorbing some of this knowledge that is being passed on. I've had the experience of black powder rifle shooting but have never shot a cap and ball revolver ..yet!
 
Silicone grease is good for high temperatures. It also does not have anything in it that can combine with black powder fouling to make a gum or hard deposit.
It or a good "anti-seize", available at all automotive supply stores will work fine.

As for stuck nipples, this is a problem that is common on many cap & ball revolvers made by all of the companies.
 
Crisco would be better than nothing but one of the anti-seize compounds that comes in a little tiny tube doesn't cost much and it will last a lifetime.
The anti-seize compounds are made for places like spark plug threads where there is high temperatures and carbon buildup to contend with.
They are made with aluminum or copper powder that can take the high stress of being compressed between highly tightened threads and they prevent the localized galling of the steel surfaces on the threads that can happen if something that is not made for lubrication like Crisco is used.
 
Like most have said. Silicone is probably best. Just dont over tighten the nipples. Dont forget the long caplock guns too.
Do any of you use "politically un- correct stainless nipples?
 
Silicone grease is good for high temperatures. It also does not have anything in it that can combine with black powder fouling to make a gum or hard deposit.
It or a good "anti-seize", available at all automotive supply stores will work fine.

As for stuck nipples, this is a problem that is common on many cap & ball revolvers made by all of the companies.
Stuck nipples, like spark plugs, people get them way too tight. Should just be "snug", like...a...spark plug.
 
The ball can be no larger than the chamber diameter. If you load a slightly oversize ball such that it shaves a ring of lead all the way around then the portion of the ball in contact with the chamber wall is an exact fit and seals. If the chamber mouth is slightly beveled so that it doesn't shave but swages the ball down slightly then the ball is the same diameter as the chamber. I shot my first revolver in '71 and have 20 some and I've won quite a number of matches with them. I have never seen any evidence of a ball being "smooshed" while being loaded and I question if compressing the powder charge wouldn't cushion the force needed (if it's even avaliable using the lever) enough that the ball wouldn't be "smooshed". Anyway obtaining a good seal between the ball and chamber wall is not an issue so long as the ball fits tight enough to need the lever or a press to seat it. I trust you will choose a ball slightly over chamber diameter and you'll never have a problem unless it's the force required to seat a hard ball. BTW, I have seen grip frames bent from excessive pressure loading with the grip resting on a bench.

Disclaimer: I have seen the front of balls deformed somewhat by a poorly matched loading lever end, specially that odd one on Uberti Remingtons.
Yeah, this is true. I always remove the rammer from a new revolver purchase and take a ball mill to it for a hemisphere end seat.
 
So most any good grade of grease as long as its not petroleum based right? I'm guessing vegetable based stuff like crisco would last long due to the heat?
Petrolium greases will work in the nipple threads. Though you might get your gun almost hot enough to burn you it will still be below the temperatures necessary to burn/carbonize the grease and being between the nipple and cylinder or breach it isn't exposed to flame. Now having said that I still recomend an anti-sieze compound. The point I tried to make is that other things will work in a pinch and are usually better than nothing. Crisco and Bore Butter will melt and run at the temperatures the cylinder will reach without even shooting fast. I once tried Bore Butter over the ball on a 90 degree day and it melted and ran all over the revolver before I even fired a shot.
 
I may just go with the swaged soft lead balls for this ASM. Especially with it being a brass frame and all. The loading press should handle the balls. I'm planning on 454s. Would that be the right size for this 44? Its possible a smaller size ball would work but I hear 454s make a better seal. I'm new at this cap and ball thing so correct me if I'm wrong.
 
There called 44's even though they take either .451 - .454 or .457 balls that depends on the pistol chamber and bore diameter.
 
I'm new at this but from what I've read so far very few guns could handle the .457 except the Ruger Old Army. Given my situation would you use the .451 or tge .454?
 
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