Bag making question

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Tomcat1066

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I picked up a hide of commercially tanned buckskin at an event last weekend. The hide is smoke colored and looked a lot like brain tanned, which was a bonus for me since I just don't have the time to learn how to brain tan like I would want.

However, I have a bit of a problem and could use some advice on how to potentially solve the problem. The bag I want to make out of this is a possible bag. I've been using a canvas haversack from Jas. Townsend and Sons which as served me well, but I just don't like the look of it. So, I figured I would make me a new one.

The hide I purchased is more than sufficient to provide for the bag, but I'm finding the strap a bit tricky to provide for. There is an 11 stamped on the hide, and that's consistent with what I paid for the hide. My plan was to double up the strap and stitch it together to make sure the strap was more than sufficient for any abuse I may put it through.

My first problem is that the only want to make the strap out of a single piece of leather is to cut it diagonally across the hide. This will get me enough leather for the strap, but may inhibit the rest of the design I had envisioned. That means I see a few possible solutions, but could use other folks' opinion as to which would be better.

1. Cut the leather diagonally, making two straps and stitch together and modify the rest of the design.

2. You only need one thickness (I have no idea what oz the leather actually is, FYI). I would still need to modify the design though.

3. Make the strap out of two pieces, but place them end to end and stitch or lace them together.

3. Use a woven strap.

4. Use the heavier oil side I previously bought from Leather Unlimited and who cares that they don't match.

I also figure there's plenty of things I've not even thought about as a potential solution and I'm open to suggestions as well. Any and all help is appreciated.
 
Yep, what Swampy said, get a hold of short arm here, aka the Weaving Welshman, or check out his site, best on the market! Strap problems are easy to fix this way, I would not compromise the bag design to accommodate the strap, besides, buckskin will stretch and continue to stretch as long as you use it, a word of advise here, get that hide wet and pre stretch it by hand(2 person job), then use a sheet of plywood, staple along the edges on one side, then pull the opposing side and stretch it till it cries, staple it down, then do the ends, let it dry completely then go to making the bag, if you don't pre stretch it, that bags going to get bigger and bigger as you use it, JMHO
 
I knew there was a reason to ask that question here. Thanks folks!

Beaverman, thanks ever so much for the stretching tip. Now to con a buddy into coming over to help me out on that one ;)

ETA this question: How would you fellows recommend attaching it to the bag? Tie it to rings, or sew it on? I know which one I'm partial to myself, but am curious to see your opinions on it.
 
Tom
Beaverman is correct about stretching[I bought some Elk hide from him and it needed stretched out] but why not make your strap in two pieces? Will you not want a buckle for size adjustment anyway? If so...you will end up cutting a one piece strap in two so why not just start that way? As to making it double.....perhaps 'line' the strap with a piece of ticking or linen,not only will this provide strength but will limit stretching as well. Just glue it onto the back trim it off and then stitch it along the edges.
Macon
ps..........I prefer to stitch the strap to the back of the bags.Stitch it is a U design, not crossways as this can cause the strap to break/tear off in time.
 
Actually, I'm not a huge fan of buckles on bags and I'm not planning on putting one on this particular bag. It's cool though. Just put in an order for an awesome strap from the Weaving Welshman that will really make the bag look awesome!

I'll be stretching the skin out sometime this week though. I'm glad you guys said something, because there's no way I would have thought about it.
 
You can also line the bag with hemp, or linen fabric, that would help support the leather.
 
I'm not really concerned with the bag's thickness. The strap was the portion I was concerned with as far as thickness goes.
 
So I've gathered. He also has a great selection to choose from. I'm pretty happy with the one I ordered, and I can't wait for it to get here! :)
 
I concur. Receintly received one of his straps on an outstanding bag from Swampy.

Mine is the beeswax treated variety.

DSCN0099.jpg
 
Tom Knighton said:
Quick question about the stretching of the buckskin. How long should it stretch?
I generally leave mine for 2-3 days when possible. Once I take it down I re-check for stretch and if IMO it's still a bit too stretchy I re-stretch. One note about wetting get it wet thoroughly, then wring out as much water as possible, then let it just hang and drip off any excess water - usually takes about an hour at most to the right "temper". Too wet and you risk tearing out the holes on the edges.

Strap problems are easy to fix this way, I would not compromise the bag design to accommodate the strap, besides, buckskin will stretch and continue to stretch as long as you use it, a word of advise here, get that hide wet and pre stretch it by hand(2 person job), then use a sheet of plywood, staple along the edges on one side, then pull the opposing side and stretch it till it cries, staple it down, then do the ends, let it dry completely then go to making the bag, if you don't pre stretch it, that bags going to get bigger and bigger as you use it, JMHO
With respect to Beaverman - all leather has a finite stretching point - some types more than others. I've used single thickness heavier bucksin or elk for straps quite frequently and once it is stretched properly/long enough than it seldom stretches much more. After stretching the best bet for straps is to cut them down the center of the back since that's is the least stretchy section. Also I cut a bit wider than what I want for the final width that way it's still a bit too stretchy I just re-stretch the strip.
Had to grin a bit when he said it takes two though- even with my old broke down bod I stretch hides by myself and I too several each year - I use nails though or have a frame and use rope to stretch mine.

There is an 11 stamped on the hide, and that's consistent with what I paid for the hide.
2. You only need one thickness (I have no idea what oz the leather actually is, FYI). I would still need to modify the design though.

3. Make the strap out of two pieces, but place them end to end and stitch or lace them together.

4. Use the heavier oil side I previously bought from Leather Unlimited and who cares that they don't match.
The 11 is most likely the number of square feet and only incidentally has anything to do with the price.

For straps made of buckskin of elk hide I usually make them in three sections - two ends that attach to the bag and a longer center section. This method also helps cut down on any possible future stretch and lets me use shorter pieces.

Using a different type of leather for the strap is not a bad idea either - I've examined several original made that way - some were replacements, but others were made that way intentionally.

Her's a couple of my bags that have single thickness elk or deer hide straps.
I built this one back in 1973 and carried for 25 years without a stretching problem and as far as I know th new owner has had no problems - it is elk.
dumas-pouch-1.jpg


The next one is from brain tan deer and was built in 2009 and again no stretching problems reported.
Sorry I don't have a better pic of the strap - it was made in three sections
chucks-pouch-4.jpg
 
LaBonte said:
I generally leave mine for 2-3 days when possible. Once I take it down I re-check for stretch and if IMO it's still a bit too stretchy I re-stretch. One note about wetting get it wet thoroughly, then wring out as much water as possible, then let it just hang and drip off any excess water - usually takes about an hour at most to the right "temper". Too wet and you risk tearing out the holes on the edges.


The 11 is most likely the number of square feet and only incidentally has anything to do with the price.

That's what I figured. However, the price was listed by the square foot, so I simply divided.

For straps made of buckskin of elk hide I usually make them in three sections - two ends that attach to the bag and a longer center section. This method also helps cut down on any possible future stretch and lets me use shorter pieces.

I'd have never thought of that.

Using a different type of leather for the strap is not a bad idea either - I've examined several original made that way - some were replacements, but others were made that way intentionally.]/quote]

Can you suggest any examples I could look at? I seriously doubt this is going to be my last bag after all.

Her's a couple of my bags that have single thickness elk or deer hide straps.

Thanks for those. I've seen both of those bags before but now I know that they're single thickness.

Thanks Chuck. I really appreciate the help!
 
There ya go Tom, the master speaks! I was hoping Chuck would chime in on this, I still like to use 2 guys to stretch buckskin, of course I purposely sold all the hides I had last year so I do not have to deal with making skins for folks anymore, tired of doing that and now I only work with cow and buffler
 

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