ball starter use..

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pinemarten

40 Cal.
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I am relatively new to blackpowder. Got a range rod recently with bore guide to try and protect the rifling as I have read on here. What about using the ball starter? I've been using that and when I do, I try to guide with my thumb and finger at the muzzle to keep it from rubbing the sides of the bore as I push the ball in. Is that the way to do it? Or do you use a ramrod for the starting too? Protecting bore worries with a ball starter realistic anyway? How about with using a loading block...does that pretty much require a ball starter? That is where I worry more about hitting the sides of the bore cause I am not able to guide the starter...

Dan
 
Have done both ways (with just the last 4" of the rammer and with short starter).

As I mature in my shooting (aka "get old and lazy") I have minimized what I carry. Never have used a seperate range rod. My current rifle does well with a load that I don't need a short starter to get seated or started . . . so it mostly stays home. If I plan on a LOT of shooting I take a little one just cause it's easier on cold fingers.

You don't need one with a ball block. But it certainly doesn't hurt. I have a five shot block that has a little "stub starter" that I occasionally carry. I whittled it from a 1/2" thick piece of maple and left a 1-1/2" stub. Just the ticket for pushing balls out of the block. But I get by with just the last bit of the rammer. Mine are tapered and that helps a lot.

IM000565a.jpg
 
Short starts are cheap even cheaper if you make them. Some fancy bought ones have a muzzle guide. I made one and installed a guide. I cannot visualize using a loading block without a starter but I use a ball and patch some consider tight (.535 or .395 ball and .018-.020 patch).

Range rods are good to have if you are loading at a bench, table or pickup tail gate where you don't have to tote 'em. They save breaking a wood ram rod and possibly perforating a hand.

Hunting I load at the camp or truck using the tight ball/patch a short start and range rod. Subsequent shots are loaded with a smaller ball and patch (.530 or .390 and .015) so a short start isn't needed and is easier on the wood rod. I do use a button or nubbin to get the ball below the muzzle far enough to cut the patch.

When using a wood rods always use short strokes like 4"-6" to minimize possibility of breaking the rod even with the easier loading combination.
TC
 
My loads usually require a starter.....that said I went hunting one day and forgot it.....so I used my powder flask as a starter....it worked....
 
I've just about quit using a starter, except with my smallest calibers and loading blocks. Not that I'm feeling particularly correct in stopping with the starter, rather it's a case of one less thing to carry and keep track of.

Since I'm mostly cutting at the muzzle, I start the ball with thumb pressure, then lay my knife blade flat across the top of the ball and give it a good whack with my closed fist. It's down far enough I can cut the patch and switch to my rod.

In larger calibers with the loading block, I just reach in with my finger to push the ball down onto the muzzle, then do the same with the knife.

I really need the loading block with small calibers in the cold, but my fingers are too pudgy to reach down into the hole and push the ball out. Always thought of making a knife with a little nubbin on the butt of the handle to do that, but till then I'll still be packing a starter for anything under about 50 cal.
 
Whether at the range or when hunting, I always use a short stater...my loads are extremely accurate but do require a thicker patch which "tightens" things up a bit.

When hunting, a loading block is always used which requires a short starter and I push the PRB all the way in until the "knob" of the short starter bottoms out.

At the range don't use a loading block but still use the short starter.

Never paid any attention asre both the short starter or RR rubbing the bore. Have ben hunting w/ my squirrel LR since 1977 w/o any loss of accuracy due to muzzle wear.

My homade short starters don't have that really short "starter"....and never used one ....Fred
 
Thanks for sharing all your experience and wisdom! I am going to work on the patch and ball combo. I had some blowing to pieces. I picked up some pillow ticking and am gonna try that.
Dan
 
BrownBear said:
Since I'm mostly cutting at the muzzle, I start the ball with thumb pressure, then lay my knife blade flat across the top of the ball and give it a good whack with my closed fist. It's down far enough I can cut the patch and switch to my rod.

I like this idea, especially if I am cutting at the muzzle. If I'm using pre cut patches, just the short starter. Keep yer powder dry.......robin :wink:
 
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BrownBear said:
I really need the loading block with small calibers in the cold, but my fingers are too pudgy to reach down into the hole and push the ball out. Always thought of making a knife with a little nubbin on the butt of the handle to do that, but till then I'll still be packing a starter for anything under about 50 cal.

That is a good idea, I really like it :thumbsup:



William Alexander
 
At the range and in the field I shoot fairly tight combos. So I use a short starter all the time. Arthritic hands makes this a requirement. All my shooting bags have a ss secured on the strap and I have several small ones for when I don't take a bag.
 
Pr evious replies show most of us modern ml types prefer using the short starter, and I am one of them. But, it may not have always been that way. I recall one event attended by an old timer with an original flint long rifle. It had a coned bore and OT loaded without use of a short starter. He couldn't shoot worth a flip so, that day, it was impossible to judge how accuracy may, or may not, have been affected.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
Pr evious replies show most of us modern ml types prefer using the short starter,
That's because people today like as many gadgets as they can dream up. Just watch today's infomercials!

Geez, people even carry little knives used only to cut patches!!!! :rotf:

A special knife to cut fabric.
A special tool to start the ball.
A special little container just to prime.
The list goes on.
 
My most accurate loads in rifles require a short starter... it has a muzzle protector.
Also use brass ram rods with protector.
Can keep them touching at 50... hunt out to 85 yards.
Take the path you enjoy..don't look back.
Bump up in patch thickness try a wet lube...
Half the fun is finding the sweet spot.
 
my short starter for my son`s .32 is an old piece of fiberglass tent pole tipped with a .22 case. the brass and glass should wear out before the barrel.
 
I don't use 'em anymore. Don't really need one, either. Muzzle on my rifle is coned, allowing me to thumb start the ball. On my trade gun (a 62/20 ga bore), I have been experimenting with using a .610" ball and various wads, either felt over powder and card over shot, or else tow.
 
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