Ballistol-based lube?

[Mike in FL]

Ballistol emulsifies in water, so cutting it with water will leave less Ballistol very evenly distubuted throughout the patch vs using it full strength.

Varying the water/Ballistol ratio will vary the density of the coating left behind on the patch as well…

That makes sense. I learn something new here daily.

 

[JDBraddy]

Alex, you are right to use part works, but I have a question that sprung from my ignorance. If you mix the Ballistol with water and then let the patches dry, is that not the same as NOT mixing with water?

The water acts as a carrier. Yes, once it evaporates it is pure ballistol left behind, but how much per unit of surface area? That's what the various concentrations control, is how much ballistol is evenly distributed per square inch, or centimeter, or whatever unit of surface area. For example, 1:5 would leave approximately twice as much ballistol per unit of surface area as 1:10.

 

[Clark Badgett]

I would respectfully suggest you get a copy of Dutch’s book and read through it.

There are other ways to wring accuracy out of a ML, but his methods have worked for many here, including myself. I took two rifles through this process and was able to improve groups on both of them by varying the Ballistol to water ratio.

This also essentially creates a “dry” patch that will sit in there during a multi day hunt without dampening or fouling the powder.

Ballistol does have a smell when you are working with it, but it goes almost completely away on the finished patches. Having a single dry patch down in the barrel with a ball on top of it is not going to out you to a deer beyond the (relatively speaking) much stronger stink of yourself.

Why would I buy a book when I’ve already experimented very similarly? Once I found the ball/patch combo my rifles liked, the lube didn’t really effect much outside a reasonable margin of error.

 

[JDBraddy]

Why would I buy a book when I’ve already experimented very similarly? Once I found the ball/patch combo my rifles liked, the lube didn’t really effect much outside a reasonable margin of error.

Have heard a lot of folks say the lube doesn't matter, but have managed to reduce group sizes from 2-2.5" to 1-1.5" at 50yds changing nothing but the lube, and have managed to get similar performance improvements with multiple rifles, just by varying the lube.

 

[Mayne1713]

1. Why not simply draw the load?
2. Why Balistol?
3. Why not 50-50 beeswax/tallow?

I will not admit to the length of time I have had a muzzleloader remain loaded that did not fail to fire.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I have used ratios from 4 parts water to 1 part of Ballistol to 7 parts of water and 1 part Ballistol. I saw no real difference in performance. I use a damp patch. All the benefits of spit with a bit of lubricant.

 

[JDBraddy]

1. Why not simply draw the load?
2. Why Balistol?
3. Why not 50-50 beeswax/tallow?

I will not admit to the length of time I have had a muzzleloader remain loaded that did not fail to fire.

1. Not sure what "draw the load" means?

2. At the suggestion of many far more experienced shooters.

3. Tried it, in fact varied the concentration of beeswax, tallow, and olive oil, and experimented with it quite a bit. Even using an iron to melt it between layers to get thinner more even distribution.

Too messy, too much trouble, couldn't get consistent results, melts in the 100+ degreee Texas summer heat, however works great for lubing cast miniballs for my .58cal P53 musket, and sealing the cylinder chambers on my 1860 Pietta. I still use it for those things.

 

[JDBraddy]

I have used ratios from 4 parts water to 1 part of Ballistol to 7 parts of water and 1 part Ballistol. I saw no real difference in performance. I use a damp patch. All the benefits of spit with a bit of lubricant.

This actually works great at matches where am loading and shooting a lot, keeps fowling soft and almost eliminates the need to swab between shots, I got even better results using 1:1 simple Green / isopropyl alcohol. Tried it with Dawn / water but had mixed results, but need to experiment more.

 

[AlexB]

This actually works great at matches where am loading and shooting a lot, keeps fowling soft and almost eliminates the need to swab between shots, I got even better results using 1:1 simple Green / isopropyl alcohol. Tried it with Dawn / water but had mixed results, but need to experiment more.

I use the dawn and water at 1-1 every five shots between dry lube patches.

 

[#BPBReloadingFFL]

Save yourself some money.
Get yourself a bottle of mineral oil mix with some alcohol. Pour on your patches ,squeegee them out ,let it dry.

 

[ETipp]

Save yourself some money.
Get yourself a bottle of mineral oil mix with some alcohol. Pour on your patches ,squeegee them out ,let it dry.

Agreed. This is so simple even a child can understand it. However, people like to complicate something as simple as a hunting patch lube. This is not target shooting or competition shooting we are talking about here. We are discussing a hunting lube that may very well be exposed to harsh elements.

My God. Does anybody actually believe that 1/4 inch will make a difference on an elk?

I digress. I’m outta of this one.

 

[Okie Hog]

i thoroughly detest ballistol and mixtures that contains ballistol.

Lots of stuff performs very well when used as patch lube.

i don't use black powder.

My hunting rifles are left loaded until fired at quarry, as long as 10 months. The rifles always fire.

My present patch lube consists of a mixture of 50 percent Softsole mink oil and 50 percent bees wax. Stuff is poured into a shallow can. At the shooting bench the patch is smeared with the lube.

50 percent Bore Butter and 50 percent bees wax also makes good patch lube.

This device contains five patched round balls for hunting:

The

 

[beardedhorse]

Yampa Valley Mountain Man, did you get your elk? If you are Bob from Steamboat hope you did. I shot mine 45 minutes into the first day of hunting at 20 FEET. .54 round ball with beeswax and bear grease lubed red striped pillow ticking.

 

[beardedhorse]

My experience with 4:1 water to Ballistol is the dried patches smolder. Not good on the range and especially bad in dry elk woods. So no Ballistol for me.