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bare ball 12ga best shoting?

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damron

40 Cal.
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I have been playing with .690 balls in a TC New Englander.With a .015 patch and 90 FF it shots about 5" 5 shot groups at 25 and burns out the patch.With a 3/8" fiber wad behind it it still cuts a ring and isn't much better.I tried a bare ball with just the wads and it grouped under 2"(three 3 shot groups).it is just rattling down the bore.Is this normal or is it a fluke and do i need to be concerned bout some sort of lubricant? My wads are dry.Now i want to borrow a .715 ball to try out.

George
 
The first thing to do is measure the bore diameter, A 12ga should be .729 in.. I think the .690 ball is too small, unless you have a chocked barrel.I use a .705 ball in all my 12ga guns, and use a thick patch lubed with bore butter. I get good accuracy out to 50 yards. if i am shooting alot, as the gun gets dirty i will sometimes just use a bare ball with a wad on top,
 
flintlock75 said:
The first thing to do is measure the bore diameter, A 12ga should be .729 in.. I think the .690 ball is too small, unless you have a chocked barrel.I use a .705 ball in all my 12ga guns, and use a thick patch lubed with bore butter. I get good accuracy out to 50 yards. if i am shooting alot, as the gun gets dirty i will sometimes just use a bare ball with a wad on top,


Bore is about .725 and it is chocked but with imp cyl it still rattles out of the choke. The thick patch shooting worse is a mystery.Maybe tomorrows re shoot will tell me more.i found 8 .715 balls to tryout.

George
 
The choke is the questionable variable in this situation. You will be able to load only what will get past the choke with little to no resistance.
I am not a fan of choked ml shotguns/smoothbores. I had a double once and had the choke honed out of one barrel. It was then a shooter.
All you can do is try. Good luck. Let us know what you work out.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
The choke is the questionable variable in this situation. You will be able to load only what will get past the choke with little to no resistance.
I am not a fan of choked ml shotguns/smoothbores. I had a double once and had the choke honed out of one barrel. It was then a shooter.
All you can do is try. Good luck. Let us know what you work out.

I have a spare choke i am having honed to bore diameter for balls and was impatient so i tried them with the imp choke.I got the gun mainly to shoot pigeons off of a buddies farms outbuildings and wanted a choked gun.I had planned to use felt wads for the modified choke loading.I havent shot much ML scatter-gun stuff so this is new to me.Advice always needed.

I also shot 10 #1 buck's with 90g and at 25 yards 9 of 10 were into 9" and right on aim.I might use that one for the Badgers on the farm.



George
 
Lack of lube on the patch i8s one of the reasons the patch burns thru! The other is relative patch thickness vs. caliber. Your patch is too thin, and cant carry enough lube in its weave to protect the patch from burning, AND leave enough lube on the walls of the bore to soften fouling. Ideally, you want a ball diameter that is about .020" SMALLER than bore diameter. That requires you to ACTUALLY measure the inside diameter(s) of your bore(s).

NEVER rely on what the manufacturer may stamp on the outside of the barrel to be a true indication of the bore's actual bore diameter, or "Caliber".

Remember that cotton fabric will compress, when lubed, and then compressed between the ball and barrel. The thicker the fabric, the more it can compress. Expect most fabric to compress 1/3 of the MEASURED thickness of the fabric, but this only a general observation. Reading the spent patches( collected after each shot fired both for data, and picking up your own litter) is important to know what is going on inside that barrel that affects accuracy and group size. Dutch Schoultz still has the best material you can buy to learn how to read patches, and how to work up accuracy in both rifles, and smoothbores.
www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com
 
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the patches are lubed just not the wads when i am not using a patch.

and Paul i ACTUALLY measured the bore and its between .7257-7262 measured with my Starett micrometer using a snap gauge to get down blow the chokes threaded area.(not a Chinese digital microguesser)

Reading patches is how i figured they were burning out .The denim was in such good shape after firing i used them again after a re-lube with Hoppies.Really saved money there!

The mystery is its why the bare ball is working at all.I'd like a theory on that one.

My re shoot will tell me if it was a fluke or not.

George
 
If u were using a soft wad behind the bare ball, the ball will be pushed by the wad and an indent forms in the wad around the ball, holding it in more or less one position in the bore. Since the wad s acting as a gas sealer, somewhat, you don't have gases blowing by and moving the ball around in the bore. At the short range of 25 yds., you can expect some reasonable fist-sized groups. You would have to use a ball with a diameter closer to bore diameter, to get better groups sizes at 25 yds., and fist sized groups out at 50 yds.

Remember that you are shooting a "Knuckle" ball, ion Baseball terminology, because the bore likes rifling needed to impart any spin to the bare lead ball. Some members here report getting good accuracy with their bare lead balls, using balls with diameters close to bore size, and then dipping the balls in molten wax, and letting them dry. Some roughen the surface of the bare balls with a coarse file, before dipping the ball in the wax. Some members use softened cushion wads behind the balls, so that the ball indents the center of the wad, and the wads then keeps the balls fairly stable as they move up the bore.

I do believe that you have to have an adequate gas seal(1), and that the velocity has to be lowered by using either a slower burning powder, or less powder(2), to get the best groups using bare balls.

Since you are shooting a projectile that weighs so much, penetration is never an issue deer hunting. Depending on the diameter of the ball chosen in your 12 or 10 gauge guns, the ball will weigh at least one ounce or more! Distances are also short - 50 yards and less. That is 150 feet or less for the ball that is leaving the muzzle at 800 fps, if you back off on the powder charges.

Do the math to calculate time in flight from muzzle to target.

I Know men who hunt deep thickets for deer and take shots at 3 yards and less using shotgun slugs! 25 yds.(75 feet) is considered a very long shot for them. You don't need a load, or gun and ball combination, that shoots 5 shots touching at 50 yds. to kill deer at those short ranges. AND, a .72 caliber ball going 800 fps is going to put a huge hole in both sides of a deer at that close range, too. :hmm: :thumbsup:
 
I will try less powder bare balled. It(and my Fowler i had) seemed to shoot best at 90g with patches.Worth a try
thanks

George
 
spare choke
Spare choke? :shocked2:
There are some things some of us old timers just have trouble accepting. e.g. screw out chokes on a supposedly olde timey style gun.
That wasn't in the original post.
Yes, do get it honed out to cylinder bore. Then enjoy.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
spare choke
Spare choke? :shocked2:
There are some things some of us old timers just have trouble accepting. e.g. screw out chokes on a supposedly olde timey style gun.
That wasn't in the original post.
Yes, do get it honed out to cylinder bore. Then enjoy.

Forgot that small bit of info.I never said it was old timey heck its a TC New Englander!!!
I had a 12ga North Star NW Trade gun and really didn't like it.Everybody takes the traditional part as far as they want i guess.If we are on an internet forum how "olde timey" can we be?
:wink:

George
 
Our member George has a website with a wonderful amount of information. Of particular relevance is his article on his smoothbore loads which includes his experience using a bare ball with wads. This has also been discussed before on these forums, but it seems to be hard to search for just them without getting the discussions about using bare shot.

Regards,
Joel
 
My bare ball load is just a few OS cards, the ball, some lube and another card. A 570 ball in a .577 bore. Shoots well around 60grn.

Something to remember is the larger balls of pure lead like to obturate due to thier mass.

Brits.
 
I shoot bare ball in an original 1842 springfield musket. .69 cal. i use a .690 ball by lee mould.
50 grs of kik 3fff. the bore is reamed five thousands over and is pretty accurate at 25 yards. this is the range we use in competition for civil war skirmishing. if you get over 60 grs in these things they start to beat you.
 
awhile back me and my buddy took it upon ourselvs to build a muzzleloading paintball gun that looked like a musket you know just for giggles anyway we found that if the barrell had a slight crown the ball would backspin could this account for the increased accuracy
 
I have experienced the same thing before. I believe the wad acts like a sabot and the ball centers itself into the wad upon firing. The wad then pushes the ball out of the bore without the barrel affecting the balls flight. Problem is it aint consistant accuracy. Goes south for some reason upsetting my new discovery and I go back to the patch.

Bob
 
I've found with my SB 62 cal that a wool felt patch over powder and ball is as accurate with 60gr FFG as a patched ball is with 80gr FFG, these are all inside of 60yds.The 60gr is soooo easy to load,pour powder,push down wool wad set ball place another wad and ram it all home,for now I'll keep doing it this way.....hey it works for me
 
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