Bark inclusion ideas

[James Kibler]

Two choices. Fill it with epoxy or CA glue or fill it with wood. If you choose to fill it, probably the easiest is the dark brown CA glue. Just put on spray with accelerator and sand off smooth. This is best for small defects. Yours looks to be an okay size to fill. Usually this looks very good when finished.

Option two is to fill with wood. This is a little more tricky but is a really nice option. The key is to get really nice tight joints along the patch. Regular wood glue will blend in the best.

 

[rich pierce]

Original Lancaster or York smooth rifle. Big knot the maker didn’t worry about.

 

[Texcl2]

I’ve seen that gun on the other site, pretty big knot lol. Have any of yall seen filled knots (other than wood plugs) on original guns?

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Larry Potterfield can show you a way

 

[Sagebrush]

I think I'd fill it with an epoxy/coffee-ground matrix. Once the ash is treated with iron nitrate and finished off, it'll look good.

 

[Texcl2]

I have wood flour on hand from building boats along with different dyes for epoxy, I could make a glue with it and one of my high quality epoxies maybe adding black dye into it to darken it (wood flour wets out dark brown naturally).The problem is I don’t really know what color to match until I apply the iron n and heat it. I may do it so it looks like the wood knot is still intact by leaving the bark edges. I don’t have any brown ca but might get some as Jim mentioned it and I bet it would seep into all the nooks and crannies. If I could find an original with a knot filled with a hardening filler I’d feel a lot better about it.

 

[Sagebrush]

The problem is I don’t really know what color to match until I apply the iron n and heat it.

You really won't get an idea on the color until you add your finish. Here's my fowler before I added the oil. (See the above photo after finishing.)

That's two coats of iron nitrate and before the heat gun. When I added heat, the entire stock turned reddish brown.

I started my finish off with a coat of Tried and True Varnish Oil cut 40% with turpentine. I think that's why it's so dark. I let that dry for five days before adding coats of Tried and True.

 

[D Yager]

I would fill it with sanding leftovers and colored epoxy and use some dark stain to make it look like a knot. Just me.

 

[oreclan]

It will definitely be darker and aged.

Given that, of it were mine; I would inlet a "football" ,or "eye" shaped patch of the same type of wood.

 

[Clint Meier]

IMHO, a patch will always look like a patch. If it were mine, I'd fill it with maple wood dust and a glue or other fluid type filler that will take a stain. It will look a lot more natural that way. You may have to do it in stages to fill the depth of the void.
Epoxy and CA glues won't take stain at all, not sure, but hide glue might. Both Epoxy and CA will make the wood dust darker because it saturates it making it look 'wet', but any that soaks into adjacent wood will keep it from taking any stain at all. Good luck!

 

[Tumbledown]

There are wood fillers that will take stain.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

I've cut scrap matching wood on my table saw and used the dust along with Titebond glue to fix trouble spots.

 

[Texcl2]

I like the knot idea actually, I may even have a maple limb I can glue in there to finish off the effect and I can fill the inclusion with glue under that to help stabilize the whole area to boot.

 

[RocketMan58]

I bought a Ship Next Day SMR with a small wood inclusion on the top edge of the forend just last month. ( The mark was bout 1.5" long and above the mid ram rod pipe) I bought the discounted kit/stock knowing full well that it might stand out on the finished gun. There wasn't much to "fix" but my method was to mix a little sawdust (from the stock itself) with enough oil finish to make a thick paste and then spread it into the area. ( Read: just enough to make a pea sized dollop. I then let it dry good for a couple of days before sanding 90% of it back off. )
To be honest, after 2 staining's with Iron nitrate, 4 blushing's and 4 coats of Tried and True, the "blem" has blended in to the point that I need to go looking for it. That said, I think these things add unique character to any gun. If mine shows, I'm perfectly fine with it. When I get ready for my next kit (Woodsrunner maybe?) I'll likely look for another with similar type markings that will make the rifle unique.
P.S. That stock is going to POP! when you get stain and finish on it.

 

[RocketMan58]

You really won't get an idea on the color until you add your finish. Here's my fowler before I added the oil. (See the above photo after finishing.)

View attachment 376548

That's two coats of iron nitrate and before the heat gun. When I added heat, the entire stock turned reddish brown.

I started my finish off with a coat of Tried and True Varnish Oil cut 40% with turpentine. I think that's why it's so dark. I let that dry for five days before adding coats of Tried and True.

It really is hard to believe that something so ugly could transform into something so beautiful with just a little heat and oil, right?

 

[James Kibler]

IMHO, a patch will always look like a patch. If it were mine, I'd fill it with maple wood dust and a glue or other fluid type filler that will take a stain. It will look a lot more natural that way. You may have to do it in stages to fill the depth of the void.
Epoxy and CA glues won't take stain at all, not sure, but hide glue might. Both Epoxy and CA will make the wood dust darker because it saturates it making it look 'wet', but any that soaks into adjacent wood will keep it from taking any stain at all. Good luck!

A good wood patch will be nearly invisible.