Barrel Bluing help

[Ryanlpuckett]

I started to blue the barrel of my investarm Hawken rifle, and as I was decreasing the barrel, I noticed an odd pattern in the metal. I dont know if it is part of the machine process, or there is a composition change. Either way, after bluing, and oil, I now see a reddish brown to copper color. The red brown does not bother me, and is accountable for 3/4 of the barrel length, its where the weird patten forms that the copper color comes though. All directions were followed to a T. Any help would be appreciated. Thinking to maybe strip the oil and reapply Bluing agents, or strip the finish all together and just brown it.

Best

Ryan

 

[Jaeger73]

Probably a hot spot during the machining process, like the barrel got a little to hot and the tool stayed one place to long. You could draw file or sand the barrel and then reblue that area.

 

[olskool]

let me give a little advice on stripping the old blue. put the parts in CLR, it will take all the blue off in 15 min. it will be completely in the white and will hurt nothing. on the blue if i go that way i blue it then rub it back with 0000 steel wool. most times i mix up rust to coat it with. use peroxide, white vinegar and salt. spray it on, let it rust, then rub it back to where you want it with 0000 wool, then oil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Try giving it a good polishing with 320 or 400 grit wet or dry paper to expose fresh metal before you apply the bluing.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

let me give a little advice on stripping the old blue. put the parts in CLR, it will take all the blue off in 15 min. it will be completely in the white and will hurt nothing. on the blue if i go that way i blue it then rub it back with 0000 steel wool. most times i mix up rust to coat it with. use peroxide, white vinegar and salt. spray it on, let it rust, then rub it back to where you want it with 0000 wool, then oil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Okay, will try this, it does not looks bad, a little worn, so its not horrendous lol. But I think that I want a solid blue, so figure that after all the carving and sanding on the stock, that I will just re blue. Will the clr damage the as ruse the barrel? I have read on using white vinegar, but not CLR.

Again, thank you, I will give it another go.

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Try giving it a good polishing with 320 or 400 grit wet or dry paper to expose fresh metal before you apply the bluing.

Okay, I will rub it back with the suggested paper. Thank you for the info! Do you suggest another bluing method apposed to the Birchwood Casey perma blue

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Probably a hot spot during the machining process, like the barrel got a little to hot and the tool stayed one place to long. You could draw file or sand the barrel and then reblue that area.

Yeah thats what I was thinking, in that it looked like the edge of a cutting tool burnished the metal. I am just going to strip it, sand it back, and re blue.

Thank you for the response

Best

Ryan

 

[The Crisco Kid]

The only other way I know how to blue besides the cold blue you're using is the rust blue which takes some equipment and time. The time being the least important. My former partner did a fantastic job of cold blueing using Ospho blue from Brownells. Birchwood Casey might work just as well. What he did was polish the barrel and then go over it with Comet Cleanser on a blue Scot towel. He claimed that the chlorine in the cleaner did the trick. After that he rubbed on the blue with degreased 4/0 steel wool. He was building bolt actions and did all this while the barrel was spinning in the lathe but I don't know why the same procedure wouldn't work by hand. Since you're using a cold blue you will probably need a pretty good polish on the barrel since it doesn't leave an etch like the rust blue does which covers the sanding marks.

 

[COTNTOP]

Tetra Cold Blue is what I have been using with really good success. Sand barrel to where you like it, then use Tetra Blue and Rust Remover with 0000 steel wool. This will smooth and clean finish out very quickly. I have used all brands but Tetra products make the task real easy.

 

[olskool]

Okay, will try this, it does not looks bad, a little worn, so its not horrendous lol. But I think that I want a solid blue, so figure that after all the carving and sanding on the stock, that I will just re blue. Will the clr damage the as ruse the barrel? I have read on using white vinegar, but not CLR.

Again, thank you, I will give it another go.

Best

Ryan

i would not put CLR inside the barrel, just on the blue.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

i would not put CLR inside the barrel, just on the blue.

Got it, outside only

 

[Grenadier1758]

I am finishing up on my copy of a Kennedy rifle. I am cold bluing the steel parts with the intent to make it look a little worn as I have a mix of parts I have taken from a busted down buttstock with a toe plate dated July 1837. Just doesn't seem quite right to me for the rifle to look brand new with all the old parts.

I'm using the Birchwood Casey Perma Blue.

 

[IanH]

I prefer Oxpho Blue or Dichophan (sp?) to BC blue, but they all work for antiquing. For a base blue, not so much as they rub off in short order from handling. Have not used any of the Tetra products as of yet.

If you want it to look like 1960's Colt revolver blue, get a bottle of Mark Lee Express Blue #1 from either Mark Lee's website or Brownell's and follow the directions to the tee. There is also a black version. It is a hot water blue that works similar to slow rust blue but is much faster and much more attractive. You can complete a barrel in one session, 2-3 hours work. Slow rust blue looks like hematite, not attractive at all to me.

 

[brazosland]

I use Perma Blue. Then rub it back with OOOO and oil.

This protects the finish from rusting and gives it a nice patina. I want the look of a used rifle, not a fresh one in a museum.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Slow rust blue looks like hematite, not attractive at all to me.

I have to disagree. High end guns with a good rust blue are beautiful to behold. It can be accomplished by anyone with a bit of skill and a lot of patience. It's also very durable, which makes it unsuitable for an antiquing job like has been mentioned. You can also get the hematite finish you mention if that's what is wanted.

 

[user 13896]

Get a copy of Angier's Firearms Blueing and Browning. I used it when teaching Chemistry. Great book. Here is a link to an electronic copy , about 1/4 the price of the hard cover.

https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/firearm-blueing-and-browning-r-h-angier/1008845590

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Thank you guys for all the information.... see thats where I am, in that the finish is nice, looks worn, or aged, copper and warm browns are mixed with the nice dark blue. I am debating to remove it and starting over. I used the perma blue, thought ordered super blue over the weekend. I dont know, I may keep it for a bit, and re do it down the road on a rainy day lol.

Best

Ryan