I think my mistake was doing it in my cold basement. Doesn’t matter at this time Im probably going to wait until July to try again. I have repeated my self several times stating the barrel was not rubbed touching the damp cotton patch instantly brought out the copper yet i keep being told I rubbed it my barrel was wet lol! I appreciate everyones comments and I have the expanded instructions with the one liner about rubbing will cause a copper effect. Funny they don’t follow that with a remedy. I kept applying as others have recommended and those areas blacked rather than rust. The rust actually didn’t look bad after the second treatment and moved it to a warmer area. But the black areas didn’t do well when carded the touch hole not the plug itself but the perimeter maybe a 1/16 or two wide surrounds the touch holes. Typically you get everything brow and a nice sharp touch hole. This could only happen to me and this gun that I started over a year ago that I put aside for 6 months to keep it out of the wood stove. Maple burns hot and fast. LoL. Sorry for being a crab I’m kind of fed up with this rifle.
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Barrel Browning with Laurel MTN product
- Thread starter Joemolf
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Cannon
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I think that's your answer.
Antelope Pete
40 Cal
Thanks. I did put the rear sight in some boiling water and it came out darker. I had already neutralized the barrel and oiled it so that's done. The brown is ok too.
Antelope Pete
40 Cal
Joemolf. I know exactly how you feel. I started a TVM kit 6 months ago and there have been so many frustrating problems both TVM caused and me not being a gun builder. I'm almost done with it finally, both literally and figuratively with right at 400 hours in. Probably more trouble than it's worth and definitely more than it should be. Hang in there.
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LMF is a great product. You do not need all that special cleaning, as it is not necessary. Just start with one light coat. And then here is the trick to start it turning brown. "Do nothing" just let it set for a day or two, then give it another coat. The copper will disappear and the brown will appear. You are just in too big of a hurry. You waited 3 hours before filing it off. I am sorry what you need is a magic wand or learn a little patience.
If all else fails, follow the instructions. I’ve done quite a few barrels (plus other items), new and old, with Laurel Mountain, with no real issues. Yep, I’ve seen the copper shading, basically ignore it when it appears, and just keep going. Soon enough it goes away. Rust browning or bluing is not a quick process. Patience, unfortunately, is going to be a necessary companion during the process. And yes, I am older than you.
Oh really I guess you were here. A big hurry? Your right i was hoping by next week it would be done. Any way I appreciate the positive comment!
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I have explained the secret, what you do with it is your business.
I brown my stuff outside because the humidity goes way up overnight here in N/W Alabama. I have an archery target with a roof over it and put my parts behind the target and under the roof, stuff rusts like crazy. I never do this when there is a chance of rain, I tried it once and found that it only takes one drop of rain running down a barrel to make a real mess.
I have a friend who lives in south Alabama who was having trouble rusting his parts, I told him to hang his parts from his garage door supports and leave the doors open overnight. His parts rusted nicely.
I have a friend who lives in south Alabama who was having trouble rusting his parts, I told him to hang his parts from his garage door supports and leave the doors open overnight. His parts rusted nicely.
Well after all this turns out I can’t follow directions! Apparently maybe I’m wrong but I just tried again on a Wood Runner barrel and had much better results though I have a few more applications to make. I still don’t know why I was getting the copper color but as others mentioned just keep applying it.
So what i think i did wrong was card the barrel after the first coat. I didn’t do that on the barrel for this wood runner I swore i wasn’t going to go any further than just fitting the parts and finishing a transition Lancaster I started well over a year ago and put aside. Kibler had a sale and even though I certainly don’t need another project I promised myself I would finish the Transition Lancaster first before finishing the Wood Runner which is almost like a snap together Kawaski model airplane kit if you’re familiar. Very nice kits just like Kibler kits IMO.
Any way I just applied the second coat without carding and within the last 20 minutes the entire barrel has darkened almost black with area of orange rust. I’m hoping I am on my way in about 2 hours I’m going to apply the third coat lightly carding it with some denim. Then repeat another light coat. I’m thinking the barrel will be finished in another two days.
By the way I purchased a carding wheel from Midway I already have one but it is only 3 or 4 inch inch diameter where this one is 6 inches. Brownells sells the same one almost 20 cheaper. I like midway for there more shipping options but they are the pricest of the suppliers I buy from.
Any way for you guys that know what you’re doing is that where I went wrong by carding after the initial application. It looked so bad I thought by carding it would balance out the heavy spots.
Thank you all!
So what i think i did wrong was card the barrel after the first coat. I didn’t do that on the barrel for this wood runner I swore i wasn’t going to go any further than just fitting the parts and finishing a transition Lancaster I started well over a year ago and put aside. Kibler had a sale and even though I certainly don’t need another project I promised myself I would finish the Transition Lancaster first before finishing the Wood Runner which is almost like a snap together Kawaski model airplane kit if you’re familiar. Very nice kits just like Kibler kits IMO.
Any way I just applied the second coat without carding and within the last 20 minutes the entire barrel has darkened almost black with area of orange rust. I’m hoping I am on my way in about 2 hours I’m going to apply the third coat lightly carding it with some denim. Then repeat another light coat. I’m thinking the barrel will be finished in another two days.
By the way I purchased a carding wheel from Midway I already have one but it is only 3 or 4 inch inch diameter where this one is 6 inches. Brownells sells the same one almost 20 cheaper. I like midway for there more shipping options but they are the pricest of the suppliers I buy from.
Any way for you guys that know what you’re doing is that where I went wrong by carding after the initial application. It looked so bad I thought by carding it would balance out the heavy spots.
Thank you all!
One last question and by now you know I ran into another problem kind of. Both the Lancaster and Wood Runner Barrels are finished for about a week. I think my baking soda lost its effectiveness in neutralizing the barrels. After scrubbing them clean and rubbing the Arm and Hammer for several minutes rinsing well and heating and oiling both barrels I noticed continue to rust. The baking soda expired in 2022 lol. I have to pick up a new box. I’m just going to clean the barrels with acetone scrub them again with new baking soda to get it neutralized. Besides getting another hobby any recommendations in making sure the barrel is neutralized? Thanks !!
Pete G
76 Cal.
I use ammonia to neutralize, but a paste of soda and water and left to sit overnight will work also. BTW Baking soda doesn’t expire.
Thanks Pete I figured as much after noticing the additional rust I have ammonia will try that I wasn’t sure if ammonia would work but I know to use it for aquaforis when you get some on the side of the barrel inlet. Cheers!
I much prefer the color you got. The real brown color really turns me off.
Joe, the barrel is steel and will rust anyway. After carding off the last coat and neutralizing with whatever; you should do an oil soak for a day to keep oxygen from getting in. I use cheap motor oil. I had a problem like that and the oil soak did the trick.
