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barrel channel router
- Thread starter rickjf
- Start date
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I use a straight router bit the same size as the flats.
Do the centre to is proper depth, then the sides to their proper depth.
Then join the oblique anle to the side and to the bottom. Easy as pie!
Old Ford
Do the centre to is proper depth, then the sides to their proper depth.
Then join the oblique anle to the side and to the bottom. Easy as pie!
Old Ford
I have used a router a lot. I would have no trouble in setting up a jug to cut the channel. Even a combination of bits could be used. I am interested in 13/16 or 15/16 barrel channel. the key to the whole problem is to know the width of a flat. My trig is rusty but I could find out by returning to a machine shop manual. I would prefer to have a dedicated bit.
PitchyPine
69 Cal.
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- Oct 6, 2006
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It isn`t quite as easy as pie, for me at least :redface: but can be done. :thumbsup:Old Ford said:
Guest
Old Ford said:
DITTO!
To figure the width of a octagon barrels flat width multiply the barrel diameter times .414.
For example, for a 1 inch barrel the answer is 1 X .414 = .414
For a .875 barrel the answer is .875 X .414 = .362
For a 13/16 barrel the answer is .812 X .414 = .336
zonie
For example, for a 1 inch barrel the answer is 1 X .414 = .414
For a .875 barrel the answer is .875 X .414 = .362
For a 13/16 barrel the answer is .812 X .414 = .336
zonie
John Taylor
45 Cal.
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I make my own bits but they are run in a milling machine.
There is nothing overly special about curly maple that sets it apart from other woods. It does tearout quite frequently during machine operations, but so do a lot of woods. There are things that can be done to minimize this tendency, but it is always a possibility.
You can use a series of router bits to cut straight octagon barrel channels. There are companies that will build carbide bits to your specifications. These are mainly for replicating molding patterns from historic homes, but I would guess you could probably have a bit made for a specific diameter of barrel if you wanted to spend a couple hundred bucks for it. You could also modify a high speed steel V bit for this task.
The one thing to consider is with that big a bit you would want to table mount your router. Even than you would want to cut in stages and not hog out all that material at once, this would be one of the tricks to avoid tearout in any event. You would also want a fairly powerful router, at least 2 H.P. and it should have variable speed to allow you to get the rpms down closer to the 10,000 range.
You can use a series of router bits to cut straight octagon barrel channels. There are companies that will build carbide bits to your specifications. These are mainly for replicating molding patterns from historic homes, but I would guess you could probably have a bit made for a specific diameter of barrel if you wanted to spend a couple hundred bucks for it. You could also modify a high speed steel V bit for this task.
The one thing to consider is with that big a bit you would want to table mount your router. Even than you would want to cut in stages and not hog out all that material at once, this would be one of the tricks to avoid tearout in any event. You would also want a fairly powerful router, at least 2 H.P. and it should have variable speed to allow you to get the rpms down closer to the 10,000 range.
I agree Alexander, to use one cutter to cut the channel in one pass with a handheld router would require one to be a gorrilla to handle it.
Multiple passes with straight cutters would be do-able but I think I would make a fixture guide from a couple pieces of angle iron to assure the router did not take off and ruin a pricey blank.
Many of the experienced builders who won't use power tools have seen good blanks go to the scrap pile. :hmm:
Multiple passes with straight cutters would be do-able but I think I would make a fixture guide from a couple pieces of angle iron to assure the router did not take off and ruin a pricey blank.
Many of the experienced builders who won't use power tools have seen good blanks go to the scrap pile. :hmm:
The other thing that would work for a straight barrel would be to modify the cutter on a molding head for the table saw. I have one of these heads and it would work fine, but it will also remove a lot of meat if you make one mistake with it so take care.
I see that this thread is a little older, but here are my thoughts: I have cut the shanks off spade bits so they are only an inch or so long and then ground the angles on the bits corresponding to the barrel flats. Clamp a guide to your router table to keep things on the straight and only take a cut of 1/8" or so at a time. So long as you take it easy and keep the wood chips clear there should be no problem and the bits are very inexpensive. Works for me. Emery
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2cents worth here..Do the hogging with straight bits or upcut/downcut as appropriate then the "profile finisher" (ground spade bit etc) can easily and cleanly finish the work without much risk of throwing your blank through the shop wall, burning it or rearranging your anatomy. I definately agree with the multiple passes process however you tool it.
paulvallandigham
Passed On
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Just an added comment. When bits were hand made, they were lovingly protected by their owners. Today, when we buy everything readimade, we seem to forget that bits are like any other tool, and can be ruined, broken, or worn out if " Over used ". By that, I am meaning that you don't want to make a drill bit, router bit, milling machine cutter, shaper,bit, or lathe bit work too hard. The heat generated dulls edges and speed can break the bits. They you really have a problem.
Not only can it destroy an expensive piece of wood, but you loose all that time( very expensive to replace) used to take that stock to the point where it is ruined. And, now you have to replace the stock and the bit, loosing time on the project so you can't get it done. For a hobbyist, that may not be very important. When you make your living doing this kind of work, its a make or break deal.
If you use your router bits carefully, taking a number of passes to hog out wood, rather than trying to do it in one pass, the working bits will last indefinitely. I now own tools my grandfather owned, and used, and he died in 1929! They still are good tools. Take your time; measure twice, cut once. Hard woods are just that- HARD! with power machines today, we can cut them at speeds that would leave 19th century master gunmakers gasping for breath. There are some industrial lazers being used to cut certain kinds of materials, including wood, but they generally are not available to the small gunshop. In another 20 years, that may change. Until then, be nice to your tools. Take your time, and do it right. If you are going to use a hand held router, ALWAYS fix a guide to the work to keep the router from drifing off track. And when you see the bit will be cutting on a knot in the wood, or some cross grain, SLOW WAY DOWN, and take you time cutting through it. Let the bit do the cutting of that tough grain. Don't try to horse it.
Not only can it destroy an expensive piece of wood, but you loose all that time( very expensive to replace) used to take that stock to the point where it is ruined. And, now you have to replace the stock and the bit, loosing time on the project so you can't get it done. For a hobbyist, that may not be very important. When you make your living doing this kind of work, its a make or break deal.
If you use your router bits carefully, taking a number of passes to hog out wood, rather than trying to do it in one pass, the working bits will last indefinitely. I now own tools my grandfather owned, and used, and he died in 1929! They still are good tools. Take your time; measure twice, cut once. Hard woods are just that- HARD! with power machines today, we can cut them at speeds that would leave 19th century master gunmakers gasping for breath. There are some industrial lazers being used to cut certain kinds of materials, including wood, but they generally are not available to the small gunshop. In another 20 years, that may change. Until then, be nice to your tools. Take your time, and do it right. If you are going to use a hand held router, ALWAYS fix a guide to the work to keep the router from drifing off track. And when you see the bit will be cutting on a knot in the wood, or some cross grain, SLOW WAY DOWN, and take you time cutting through it. Let the bit do the cutting of that tough grain. Don't try to horse it.
I have a 45 router bit that makes the 45 flats just about right for a 15/16ths barrel. If you decide to use this method, do it in multiple passes or the router bits will get hot and climb out of the collet straight up into your piece of wood. Don't ask how I know. I use a 3/4 round bit to remove most of the wood and the 45 bit to shape the flats. By the time you scrape it into final fit, the slight rounding of the bottom flat is gone.
I cut several other pieces of wood as I go so that I can check the set up changes and I clamp a double fence jig on the table so I can't just slip. Chip clearance seems to be the biggest problem because the channel is as deep as it is. It is a lot easier on the mill, but you need a big mill.
Now, if I ever get brave enough to try drilling the stock I am working on! The channel was easy. I could control that!
I cut several other pieces of wood as I go so that I can check the set up changes and I clamp a double fence jig on the table so I can't just slip. Chip clearance seems to be the biggest problem because the channel is as deep as it is. It is a lot easier on the mill, but you need a big mill.
Now, if I ever get brave enough to try drilling the stock I am working on! The channel was easy. I could control that!
