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Barrel cleaning

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To be honest my dad always used a mixture of 1 part each rubbing alcohol, Murphy's Oil Soap, and Hydrogen Pyroxide. The alcohol and oil soap I get, as the basic principle of getting a good clean bore/lock/flash hole area is #1 cutting and disolving the salts which are corrosive. #2 removing all the powder residue, crud and graphite, #3 Leave a clean surface so that the oil or whatever you are using as a rust preventer/lube contacts the metal and not crud buildup, which if left can cause rust underneath it. I plug the flash hole with a toothpick and poor a little bit of cleaning solution in with a little hot water. I only use patches, with some occasional 000 steel wool over the jag if it really needs a good scrubbing. An old toothbrush on the lock, pan and trigger area, and a saturated Q- tip and safety pin for the flash hole. *** Do not forget to remove your flash hole if you can so it doesn't become one with your barrel. Then I rinse all the parts and swab the barrel in hot water and lube it all up. About twice a year I pull the barrel completely off and lube it 100% all around to get underneath where it joins the stock. IF you take the time to take of your muzzleloader, it will take care of you..
 
I think the dnger to nippple threads is leaving the nipple in for long periods. To me its asking for rusted in threads. The hole is so small you cant pump water up with the nipple in so that blows that theory. You have to remove the nipple in order to be able to pump fluid up and down the barel. Do that enough strokes and the fowling will come out. All I do is use a Qtip to dry up the threads and apply some blue grease and use a pipe cleaner to clean up the nipple with some Windex.
 
As Bombman1976 said...
This is the formula for Moose Milk that an old timer gave a long time ago. Works wonders no soap & water needed.
Black Powder Solvent/Cleaner

1 part Murphy’s Oil Soap
2 parts rubbing alcohol
2 parts peroxide


I have always been told not to use Hoppe's #9 with black powder.
 
There are a lot of "formulas" for Moose Milk. It seems like many people have their own magical mix that works wonders in the bore. If you Google it, you will get many examples. The most common, and reputed to be the "original" formula is made up of the following ingredients:

Water soluable machinist's cutting oil (10% solution)
Water (90%) (maybe with alcohol or windshield washer fluid added/substituted during the winter).
Dab of detergent (Some guys like dishwashing detergent, others Murphy's Oil Soap).

Also, be advised that there is a lot of controversy and conflicting opinions regarding the use of Hydrogen Peroxide. Some say that is has corrosive properties and should be avoided. If you do a search on this site, you can read a lot on this subject.
 
I used to use Hydrogen Pyroxide but got worried about it being corrosive. I now use 1 part each Murphys Oil Soap, Rubbing alcohol and Pine Sol instead of the pyroxide.
 
I respectfully disagree,I pump soapy water up and down the barrel every time I clean with the nipple installed,I later remove the nipple to finish cleaning and drying everything.The hole in the nipple is small and does take a few pumps to get sufficient soapy water in the bore.A piece of appropriately sized plastic tubing placed over the top of the nipple allows cleaning without removing the barrel from the stock.
 
Its funny how some things generate so much excitement.. As a new BP shooter myself ive leanred that its wisest to ask ..pay attention and take all into consideration....and in the end do what u think works best.... For me its luke warm soapy water....for others it might be kerosene mixed with the eye of a blue footed booby....but as long as its clean....it doesant matter...(and for the record i ahve Blue Footed Booby eyes on sale )
 
FYI that stuff is very abrasive , think of it as sand paper in a tube. I ahve a jar of jewlers rouge that i use to remove lead deposits ...about once a year....that stuff will eat a barrel up in a hurry if used alot
 

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