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45 Cal.
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- Dec 31, 2004
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Hey anyone ever use felt tip markers? I thought about using some "Goth" colored (i.e. black, or darker shades of red) lipstick. Too messy? Any thoughts?
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BARREL INLETING HELP!
- Thread starter pipascus
- Start date
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Well, the inletting paint, whether acrylic, lipstick, or whatever, has not worked to much extent for me. The barrel is now snug in the stock, but despite using different compunds to show where it touches etc. I get maybe a spot or two. It hasn't mattered what I do: the color won't transfer. I can't figure out if the barrel is just floating there or touching wood or what. It has me baffled.
Also, the tang/breech is just above the wood. I keep scraping and even chisling a bit, but it has made no difference at all lately. I'm afraid to remove too much, but without transfer color working, I can't even tell where there is contact!
Also, the tang/breech is just above the wood. I keep scraping and even chisling a bit, but it has made no difference at all lately. I'm afraid to remove too much, but without transfer color working, I can't even tell where there is contact!
I use the Permanent black marker instead of Dykum for marking lines on metal parts.
I also use it on the metal parts to see where it gets rubbed off when the part is inserted into the mortice. It doesn't leave enough material on the wood to tell me where the high spots are.
The end result of this is I have to compare the rubbed area on the metal with where it would be on the wood.
Because of this, I much prefer using the dirty, gets on everything in sight, gets under my fingernails black inletting compound.
This also removes the possibility of men visiting my shop, seeing the mascara and lipstick, raising their eyebrow and rapidly backing towards the door. :rotf: :grin: :rotf:
I also use it on the metal parts to see where it gets rubbed off when the part is inserted into the mortice. It doesn't leave enough material on the wood to tell me where the high spots are.
The end result of this is I have to compare the rubbed area on the metal with where it would be on the wood.
Because of this, I much prefer using the dirty, gets on everything in sight, gets under my fingernails black inletting compound.
This also removes the possibility of men visiting my shop, seeing the mascara and lipstick, raising their eyebrow and rapidly backing towards the door. :rotf: :grin: :rotf:
Guest
El Casador said:
I had a similar problem, but picked up a couple of those quick-clamps at Lowe's that has the little gun grip handle and you squeeze the trigger to tighten the clamp. When you want to transfer, you need to clamp the barrel into the channel in a couple of places, then take it out. You'll get transfer. Once you start removing the the high spots, you'll see the transfer marks move, and you'll start seeing more of them. I stopped when I had a nice spread of transfer marks all the way up the barrel channel. You're not looking for a solid black bottom... just an indication that you have barrel making contact the whole length of the channel. I used a big Sharpie MAGNUM marker, worked great.
OK..... Get some inletting black. Put on some disposable latex gloves. (If ya don't want black hands) Put a very thin even layer of the black grease on the barrel bottom half,(MOst guys use Way too much grease) put it down in the stock & take your hands & start it into the channel, take a plastic or wood mallet & tap the barrel just in front of your hand squeezing the barrel in & tap it every 3" down it's length. This will transfer the inletting black.
It is best the rifle be supported at the lock area & at the buzzle so it is not bouncing around & etc.
As for the tang, you inlet the barrel first & then inlet the tang. If this is a Precarve & has a lock inlet started, you inlet the lock 3/4 of the way in First, then you inlet the barrel because if you inlet the barrel first you may not have it in the proper depth to put the vent hole in the proper place. So on a Precarve, inlet the lock 3/4 of the way, then do the barrel (without tang) then put the tang on & inlet it. Black the tang the same way & it will transfer, tapping on the muzzle to knock it back into the breech & get a snug fit there.
:thumbsup:
It is best the rifle be supported at the lock area & at the buzzle so it is not bouncing around & etc.
As for the tang, you inlet the barrel first & then inlet the tang. If this is a Precarve & has a lock inlet started, you inlet the lock 3/4 of the way in First, then you inlet the barrel because if you inlet the barrel first you may not have it in the proper depth to put the vent hole in the proper place. So on a Precarve, inlet the lock 3/4 of the way, then do the barrel (without tang) then put the tang on & inlet it. Black the tang the same way & it will transfer, tapping on the muzzle to knock it back into the breech & get a snug fit there.
:thumbsup:
Guest
El Casador, A quick question about your inletting. While weve been talking about marking the inlet, you haven't mentioned what tools you are using to inlet with. Exacto knives, chisels, dremel tool (I hope not). all that should be needed are a couple of very, very sharp chisels and posibly an exacto knife. You can never have your tools too sharp. They need touching up with a stone or strop regularly. It makes the work go smoother, and will require less effort on your part. Bill
No longer use that "black stuff"....way too messy! Tried it for a while because I couldn't buy Permatex spotting compound, but alas, I now have a 300 year supply....they might discontinue production? I use Permatex and bearing grease, which is nearly the same color, 1:1 and it stains the wood less, wipes off easily and on maple is very visible. For awhile my wife thought I was digging coal in the basement, but it was only that horrible "black stuff". W/o the tang attached, you should have no trouble spotting the barrel if, as said previously, you're tapping the barrel every 3" and have support under the stock. Sometimes the corners in the inlet aren't clean , especially the ones where the sides meet the angles. I have my inlets done by Fred Miller who probably does the best job of anybody and I still have to clean some of the corners out....Fred
I have been using a 3/8" chisel and some sand paper on a block. No power tools at all.
That damned breech plug is hell to get off!:cursing: But I think I may take it off again to check the barrel. It seems I have about 1/16" to go before the barrel is settled in.
That damned breech plug is hell to get off!:cursing: But I think I may take it off again to check the barrel. It seems I have about 1/16" to go before the barrel is settled in.
I'm using brown shoe wax polish stuff. Everything else has been a hell! :cursing:
Goldhunter
54 Cal.
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Maybe try some teflon plumbing tape on the threads? It might make the temperary taking-on-off a little easier.
Doc Arroyo
Greybeard
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El Casador said:
I was taught to completely inlet the barrel before I started messing with the breechplug. They are two seperate jobs.
My inletting black is a light coat of Vaseline and then candle soot. I find that it transfers easy and is inexpensive. Here is the scraper that I made. Only scrape the areas that the black has been tranfered to...it is easy to want to scrape or sand the whole length of the channel!
Go slow, relax and have fun! :grin:
That's a good idea, and there is something like it in the video, but I have no way to make it.
I've just had some wierd luck with this: I've just dulled SIX brand new drill bits and broken two; just trying to drill through the tang! The tang is soft metal right? But it has literally dulled SIX bits and broken two even using oil!!!! :shocked2: I'm just flabergasted right now! I think I've discovered a new metal.
I've just had some wierd luck with this: I've just dulled SIX brand new drill bits and broken two; just trying to drill through the tang! The tang is soft metal right? But it has literally dulled SIX bits and broken two even using oil!!!! :shocked2: I'm just flabergasted right now! I think I've discovered a new metal.
They're no the best. I used a better one I had lying around and that one did it after a very long time and resharpening it with a whetstone!
Guest
I'd give Jim or Barbie a call about that Plug, it should be fairly soft mild steel. I can't believe you are at drilling the plug already. Bill
gmww
70 Cal.
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- Sep 4, 2004
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I came across this in the Brownells online catalog and thought about your problem. I've never used this and have no opinion but thought I show it. It's basically a scraper. It is described as a "Gunline Octabon Bedding tool" They have different sizes from 11/16"-1".
Link to tool.
Link to tool.
JOHN L. HINNANT
45 Cal.
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Good Evening EL c.
If you can find a Mobil Gaso;ine station that still lubricates motor vehicles, see if they will give you a small amount of their lubricating grease. It is a long stem type of grease and mixed with black soot, lamp black, or black epoxy dye makes a fine inletting black.
Apply with a stencil brush in a stenciling manner. Do not brush it or wipe it on. This will cause too much build up of the inletting black.
Dobbing with the end of the brush will apply a thin even coat of the inletting black.
As you fit the barrel into the stock, tap along the length of the top of the barrel with a rawhide mallet. This should give you a better "read" of your high spots.
Hope this information will prove useful to your endeavors.
Best regards and good shooting.
John L. Hinnant
If you are not an NRA or NMLRA Member, why not? I am carrying your load.
If you can find a Mobil Gaso;ine station that still lubricates motor vehicles, see if they will give you a small amount of their lubricating grease. It is a long stem type of grease and mixed with black soot, lamp black, or black epoxy dye makes a fine inletting black.
Apply with a stencil brush in a stenciling manner. Do not brush it or wipe it on. This will cause too much build up of the inletting black.
Dobbing with the end of the brush will apply a thin even coat of the inletting black.
As you fit the barrel into the stock, tap along the length of the top of the barrel with a rawhide mallet. This should give you a better "read" of your high spots.
Hope this information will prove useful to your endeavors.
Best regards and good shooting.
John L. Hinnant
If you are not an NRA or NMLRA Member, why not? I am carrying your load.
"OCTAGON BARREL BEDDING TOOL"
DOH!!! :cursing:
I guess I'll get one for my next rifle/musket!!!
I want to stress one thing (Charlton Heston style): DAMN THAT BREECHPLUG TO HELLLLLLLLL!!!!!!
I got the barrel in and the tang is screwed on with a wood screw. Next come the underlugs, but I'm too tired and it's too late. I have to start and finish the lugs because I don't want to leave that stock unbarreled any longer than I have to.
I'll tell you, it's amazing: the simplicity of these things and at the same time the sheer detail required!!! I am making mistakes but taking them as lessons, and I really do appreciate everyone's input and help!!! You all have made it infinitely easier!!! (or perhaps I should say infinitesimally less difficult, or perchance much unharderer”¦)
I have taken breaks when aggravation or weariness sets in, but there are a few screw ups like the space around the tang. I hope what you all suggested: that the wood will swell a bit, works!
El Casador :hatsoff:
DOH!!! :cursing:
I guess I'll get one for my next rifle/musket!!!
I want to stress one thing (Charlton Heston style): DAMN THAT BREECHPLUG TO HELLLLLLLLL!!!!!!
I got the barrel in and the tang is screwed on with a wood screw. Next come the underlugs, but I'm too tired and it's too late. I have to start and finish the lugs because I don't want to leave that stock unbarreled any longer than I have to.
I'll tell you, it's amazing: the simplicity of these things and at the same time the sheer detail required!!! I am making mistakes but taking them as lessons, and I really do appreciate everyone's input and help!!! You all have made it infinitely easier!!! (or perhaps I should say infinitesimally less difficult, or perchance much unharderer”¦)
I have taken breaks when aggravation or weariness sets in, but there are a few screw ups like the space around the tang. I hope what you all suggested: that the wood will swell a bit, works!
El Casador :hatsoff:
