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Barrel Inletting. How tight ?

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Rich Wormington

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I am replacing a barrel on a Hawken type rifle. The new barrel is just a small amount larger than the old barrel across the flats. So I am having to scrape the inletting a little to fit it.
How tight should the barrel fit? Do any of you eve use glass bedding to assure a perfect fit?
Maybe just along the bottom of the barrel channel?
Thanks
Rich
 
I am replacing a barrel on a Hawken type rifle. The new barrel is just a small amount larger than the old barrel across the flats. So I am having to scrape the inletting a little to fit it.
How tight should the barrel fit? Do any of you eve use glass bedding to assure a perfect fit?
Maybe just along the bottom of the barrel channel?
Thanks
Rich
It should easily slip in/out as the fit will be snug (but not tight) once finish is applied.
Glass-bedding...No.
 
I am replacing a barrel on a Hawken type rifle. The new barrel is just a small amount larger than the old barrel across the flats. So I am having to scrape the inletting a little to fit it.
How tight should the barrel fit? Do any of you eve use glass bedding to assure a perfect fit?
Maybe just along the bottom of the barrel channel?
Thanks
Rich
Welcome to the forum!
I agree with BH and RP. A good fit is after the final coat of tung oil, the barrel will drop out with the rifle inverted using a small amount of shake. Glass bed IMO is for the unmentionables.
Flintlocklar
 
I bed so a dollar bill will slide the length.

That's for Model 70s, Remington 700s, Ruger 77s and Mauser Sportsters...Modern Bolt guns.

Due to basic design, there's no need for this. The barrel is the structure.
 
if you do it right, and if you don't tell, no one but you will know about the glass bedding, if its there or not. it will go right along with the PC correct hot glue found under some production muzzleloader locks that have coil springs. welcome to the forum..;P
 
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I bed so a dollar bill will slide the length.
In other words, you haven't bedded at all - you have free-floated your barrel.
Full contact for the length of the barrel is unnecessary. The barrels should be well-seated at the breech, while the wood should be close along the edges of the barrel channel and at the nose for the sake of neatness.
 
We have cut stock blanks for modern and primitive weapons, Most forearms and short stocks for modern weapons now, are 30 years old still laying in the rafters of the barn. The factory stocks and kits have always been a little too wet. The secret to a good fit is moisture content and sharp tools. I want a good solid contact the length of the barrel, but not a harsh forceful install. I have seen some factory carved stocks that, I thought, were chopped up especially on the bottom of the barrel channel. Dry wood, very dry, patience and time with hand tools or automated tools is my answer. CVA used to make a two piece stock, like traditions, may be the same kit. While on a junket run two years back I purchased a CVA kit that had been purchased in the early seventies. It must have been setting in a closet in opened package. The wood was a pleasure to work with and not much inletting was needed. Yes, I know that the average joe wants to get to shooting right away, so get a factory made, If I were to buy a kit, or carve a stock I want the wood dry. I would unpackage the kit, protect the metal and put the wood somewhere protected and open to the temperature changes, maybe for at least a year or two.
 
You can also file a bit of draft on the bottom corner of the side flats. The barrel be slightly tapered on the sides and come right out of the wood.
 
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