barrel interchange

[okcaveman]

High folks, first post other than intro and its a question. I tried searching and came up with nothing. How hard would it be to take a flintlock with say a .32x13/16x40 barrel and change it out for say a .40x13/16x40 barrel? basically using same stock/lock etc and just changing barrels? I am contemplating ordering a TVM poorboy and was hoping I could order future barrels in the same OD to use on the same gun. Is this impossible? doable but difficult? Reaaly simple?

Thanks all

 

[roundball]

How hard would it be to take a flintlock with say a .32x13/16x40 barrel and change it out for say a .40x13/16x40 barrel? basically using same stock/lock etc and just changing barrels? I am contemplating ordering a TVM poorboy and was hoping I could order future barrels in the same OD to use on the same gun. Is this impossible? doable but difficult? Reaaly simple?

Not sure how easy or convenient it would be for TVM to do a 'future' barrel...or if they'd want to...but surly it would be doable...ie: the original barrel could become damaged, need to be replaced, etc.

Coincidently, last year I had TVM build an Early Virginia with a pair of matching interchangeable barrels at the same time.
Both are identical Rice 42" B-weight swamped barrels I bought at the same time and had them both breeched identically with the vent in precisely the same locations...one a .45cal rifled, the other a .54cal smoothbore...works perfectly.

 

[rich pierce]

Locating the touchhole, using identical tang/breech and lugs are challenges. It has to be done with the gun in hand unless everything is always done assembly style with jigs etc.

 

[okcaveman]

Thanks for the replies. So maybe I just need to save and have them finish the barrels that I would want up with the rifle

 

[jethro224]

I'd either split the difference and go with a .36 or just go with the .40 caliber. ...or the .32, kinda depends on what you want to shoot with it.
I don't think there will be a huge difference either way.
Any of those calibers will tear up a squirrel. The .40 will carry farther and buck the wind a little bit better.

While it is possible, a longrifle just is not designed to be taken apart all the time. Without the barrel in the stock the wood can be very easily damaged. It would also be very easy to damage the stock while removing/installing the pins that hold the barrel in. :2

I would pick one small caliber and save the extra barrel $ towards a complete .50 or .54 caliber rifle in the future. YMMV

 

[okcaveman]

Thanks for the input. I fully intend to purchase a .54 in the future. My want for a .32 stems from that being the only small caliber I have used. I mainly want a small game rifle and was afraid that the larger calibers would be more likely to ruin meat. I have had no experience with either .36 or.40 and I was hoping that I could get the barrels instead of purchasing a seperate gun in order to determine which I like the best. Also I shoot lefty so it is much harder to "borrow" someone elses to shoot and shoot accurately to determine if I like it.

 

[roundball]

Another viewpoint is this.

If you learn the steps on pinned barrel removal which have been documented here multiple times and employ some of the tips given, it's no different than the builder himself putting a barrel in & out of a stock dozens of times during the build process.

 

[BrownBear]

High folks, first post other than intro and its a question. I tried searching and came up with nothing. How hard would it be to take a flintlock with say a .32x13/16x40 barrel and change it out for say a .40x13/16x40 barrel? basically using same stock/lock etc and just changing barrels? I am contemplating ordering a TVM poorboy and was hoping I could order future barrels in the same OD to use on the same gun. Is this impossible? doable but difficult? Reaaly simple?

Thanks all

A bud of mine had TVM put together a kit with interchangeable 72 cal smooth and rifled barrels. He's earned his keep in assembling the gun and setting up both barrels "just right" to interchange, but he did it. He knows his stuff, both in building and in removing and replacing barrels without dinging up the works, so that has to be factored in.

 

[rich pierce]

I've built rifles with multiple barrels; have one with 3 of them. That one is a percussion, which presented special challenges. Think getting touchholes lined up is challenging; well, getting 3 drums lined up perfectly to fit the lock is moreso. On fixed tang rifles with multiple barrels it is challenging to get the tangs to be perfectly the same. They must fit the inlet perfectly. Same shape within 0.010 and thickness etc. Then the tang bolt must fit perfectly, be countersunk to the same depth etc. The lugs, same deal. They must be near identical to fit the inlets in the stock. Then you may have ramrod issues if your calibers vary much. On mine, it's a halfstock so each barrel has it's own thimbles on the rib and each has its own ramrod. I went with a .50, a .54, and a 20 ga smoothie. I did all that in the early 80's before I realized someday I'd afford more than one gun and enjoy having a variety.

 

[hanshi]

Unlike many others I haven't found the .32 to be any more damaging than a .22LRHP on squirrels. However, rather than getting small calibers that overlap why not get a .40 or at least a .36. Both little prb, especially the .40, are not as fumble prone as a .32 and they will cover more game and usage than the little .32.

 

[BrownBear]

...as fumble prone as a .32....

Boy, you said a mouthful there! :rotf:

HC/PC or not, loading blocks are the only way I can afford to shoot the small calibers, especially with cold fingers or gloves. It gets danged expensive to shoot when you drop about 15 balls into tall grass for every one you manage to stuff down the bore.

 

[okcaveman]

Thanks for the replies folks. If I could go the route of having 2 barrels I would go with a .32 and a .40 I think. The .32 just for squirrel/rabbit and the .40 for everything up to deer. I may just go with a .36 and call it good. So hard to make decisions on something this expensive :idunno:

 

[roundball]

If it was me, I'd get the .40 and and use head shots on squirrels & rabbits...the .40 is a very versatile all around small-medium game & target caliber.
Remember, you can throttle back and "load down a caliber", but you can't "load a small caliber up" beyond itself.

 

[hounddog]

okcaveman, We all have our preferences, where roundball likes a 40 for squirrels, I prefer a 36. I started out with a 32 and in a good crosswind the ball would drift off target( I go for head shots only) the powder charge was so light the little criter would drift off before it got there. I went to the 36 heaver ball, and more powder and am well satisfied. I just can not warm up to 40 cal , I think its too big for squirrels, and not big enough for deer, for those that like them shoot them, I muddle along with my 36 yours hounddog

 

[jethro224]

Thanks for the replies folks. If I could go the route of having 2 barrels I would go with a .32 and a .40 I think. The .32 just for squirrel/rabbit and the .40 for everything up to deer. I may just go with a .36 and call it good. So hard to make decisions on something this expensive :idunno:

If you do decide to go with the .36 , a FYI, Hornady OOO buckshot is available in 5 lb boxes for a reasonable price from Track of the Wolf and others. The balls measure .350 and shoot great out of my .36 squirrel gun at a MUCH cheaper price than buying cast .350 ball by the 100.

 

[Walks with fire]

I think some of the regulars on this site may find this quite unusual but here goes anyway.

I think a long rifle could be built to switch barrels quite easily if built that way from the beginning. I think I would make the pins a little larger diameter. Drive the pins out, take the tang screws out and lift the barrel out.

I can't see why a long rifle couldn't be built with a hooked breech system and the pins could be thin diameter hex head screws. They could be even inset a bit and hidden with a plug if so inclined. Doodle it up a bit with some brass or silver inlay and it would probably look pretty good. Not exactly PC but function over form. If designed right it would be easier to clean and switch barrels too. Who would know unless they looked under the hood.

Kinda like haveing a 327 with a 3 speed on the column in mom's old 4 door Nova.

 

[okcaveman]

thanks for the heads up on the buckshot. I may just go with the .36 for now. It seems to have a bigger following than the .32 and I agree that .40 just seems to big for squirrels. Maybe sometime in the future I can afford to pick up the other calibers, or better yet try and learn to put a kit together.

 

[okcaveman]

I like the sound of that,

 

[hounddog]

walks with fire, I agree with you totaly, If the gun is built with bbl interchangability in mind. It would work, I have built a few guns and gsmithed over 40 years. If I were to build one I would go this route, 1 hook breech, 2 use small size wedges in stead of round pins, ( one does see some original with small wedges and they are available). by using wedges with inlays on each side you would go a long way in sloving your wear problem and lessen the risk of stock damage. It seems to me that only a hook breech plus wdeges are all that I would do differently other build up and bbl as usual. I think you will see some higher quality originals built in the above manner. it was a matter of time and price. I see no problem in staying pc correct with hb and wedges . just my opnion others may vary that kool too yours hounddog

 

[rr11]

My next rifle will be a .36. All I need now is to pick the style of the rifle, Southern, Tennessee or Viriginia? Every time I decide I look at pictures in tracks sight and change my mind. :youcrazy: