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Yes -accross the flats but where? Is it swamped?
For a hunting load I would shoot 90 to 95 grs of ffg. I would proof the barrel with 200 grs of ffg and one prb, twice and check the measurements with a micrometer each time. Then I would proof it with 100 grs of ffg and two prbs once then measure it again. If it passes that which it most likely will then it will take a real fool to blow it up. when you proof it be sure to tie the barrel down real well. Do I need to tell anybody not to be near the barrel when proofing it? Go hide after lightinng the fuse. Use fuse at least 6" long.
 
1.050"
- .650"
0.400"

divide X 2 = .200" barrel wall thickness.

That is plenty safe with a reeasonable powder charge. Obstruction is a different story, double charge is also different story. Keep your rear sight dovetail 10 inches or more from the chamber and all should be good.
 
jerry huddleston said:
Yes -accross the flats but where? Is it swamped?
For a hunting load I would shoot 90 to 95 grs of ffg. I would proof the barrel with 200 grs of ffg and one prb, twice and check the measurements with a micrometer each time. Then I would proof it with 100 grs of ffg and two prbs once then measure it again. If it passes that which it most likely will then it will take a real fool to blow it up. when you proof it be sure to tie the barrel down real well. Do I need to tell anybody not to be near the barrel when proofing it? Go hide after lightinng the fuse. Use fuse at least 6" long.

I and a helper tried to find out how much it would take to blow one of my 12L14 brrels. First we measured and marked the barrel every inch with the dimension to one thou. inch. Started with 160 gr. of FFg and two balls. I had made a special jig to hold the barrel so we could remove it and measure fairly easily. worked our way up to 240 gr w/ two balls tightly patched. Not a single difference. We quit there.

240 gr of FFg is what I figure a quadruple charge of powder and that is hard even for a complete fool to do by mistake. Now, we didn't try creating an obstruction, I already know what would happen without ruining a barrel to prove it.
 
Thanks for all the replys and information. The barrel is 1.050" across the flats at the breech and 30" long with a straight taper to .938" at the muzzle. It is a soft steel that polished easily to a mirror finish with just a fine whetstone, and I was told it came from Oregon Barrel Co.
 
240 gr of FFg is what I figure a quadruple charge of powder and that is hard even for a complete fool to do by mistake. Now, we didn't try creating an obstruction, I already know what would happen without ruining a barrel to prove it.

I think I've found my new hunting load. Should be good for whitetails and any SS Panzers I run across. :rotf: :rotf:
 
54ball said:
240 gr of FFg is what I figure a quadruple charge of powder and that is hard even for a complete fool to do by mistake. Now, we didn't try creating an obstruction, I already know what would happen without ruining a barrel to prove it.

I think I've found my new hunting load. Should be good for whitetails and any SS Panzers I run across. :rotf: :rotf:


Sorry,

But that load is no way sufficient to take any North American game past about 25 yds.

:grin:
 
In the back of the Dixie catalog are standard black powder proof loads for most guns.
My reasoning is this 100 grs. of ffg is a stout load for a 62 caliber rifle. The two most common mistakes made when loading a black powder gun is #1 to double the powder charge and #2 is to double the patched ball. My proof technique covers both scenarios. There is no proof for short starting a black powder gun which is the third most common mistake. I have proofed every barrel on every gun I ever made since 1957. I did it using that standard idea. I did proof an 11 ga. shotgun with 600 grs of ffg and two ounces of shot three times without a failure. I also proofed a pistol barrel with 150 grs of ffg and one prb twice. The barrel wall was only .163 at the breach and .032 at the muzzle. It was 12" long and was made of 1137 carbon steel annealed.
It your barrel blows up with 200 grs and a prb. load you should thank God it did. It would have to be seriously flawed to do that.
 
Your diligence is to be commended.
What is, or was, printed in the back of a DGW catalog is not gospel and, at times, downright incorrect.
Your approach has been successful for you. That is good.
 
There is also proof info on the Greener book. The gun and it's development by Greener.
The dixie info might not be the gospel according to John but it's real good gospel for muzzle loading guns. Especailly american longrifles.
It doesn't just work for me but thousands of others over the pasr 50 years. There was a time when it was just about all there was.
Please, for our sake tell us the part that is downright incorrect. We don't want anybody hurt because of incorrect info no matter who puts it out.
 
Fortunatly I have only blown up one gun, it was a 7/8" .50 Green mountain barrel. The barrel was fine but the Plug blew out the back when proofing. I was using 200GR 2F with a patched ball with a naked ball on top...The gun was complete and it was a total loss. I did save the furniture and I reused the barrel on a new gun. I believe that if you use reasonable care and proof the barrel, you will have a safe shooter with any reasonable modern steel. I especially like 12L14 because it machines so well. More time should be spent on the PLUGS, especially the patent breech that is used on Plains Rifles. I believe that they are more likely to fail because of voids when casting that unless they are X-rayed and do not have voids they are the more likely to cause problems than the barrel... All bets are off if the shooter makes a pipe bomb by not seating the ball on the powder or double loading.
 
oldarcher said:
"...The gun was complete and it was a total loss..."
That's a shame.

Bet you didn't proof any more barrels with them mounted in a completed gun again, eh...
 
Yes, that is a hard way to learn that leason. :shake:

The positive side is that you did proof it and nobody was hurt the first time it was shot.

Thanks for posting, J.D.
 
Why did the plug blow out? Did the threads strip?
What kind of plug was it? Who put the plug in?
Mathematically The barrel should always blow before the plug blows out. Something had to be wrong.
 
Mike Brooks said:
I blew a douglas years ago, but I don't think they were 12L14. My own damned fault anyway. Loaded, dumped another charge of powder, short started the ball then got distracted in conversation.My turn to shoot and I stepped up to the line and blew her all to hell. :doh:

My information says they are 12L14 and blowups were not unknown back in the day. The one I saw had split with little deformation.
I contend that a 4150 GB quality barrel will not burst from a short started ball. But I am not going to risk ringing a barrel to prove it.

Dan
 
jerry huddleston said:
Just a simple question.


























How many shots does it take through barrels made of 12L14 steel to proove it is acceptable for muzzleloading black powder barrels. Oh. Just one more. Has anybody on this forum ever seen a 12L14 barrel blow up?










how many

All I have seen is written accounts and photos and one I examined after the fact. Did not see it occur. But it failed up the top flat from the breech face almost to the rear sight. I did see a friend intentionally burst a barrel about 30 years ago
The early TC Hawkens were 12L14 (from all reports, TC, for obvious reasons, never admitted this) and a number DID blow up and people WERE hurt. This stopped so we figured that TC switched steels and all the bad ones had failed. TC survived all this through creative science (had the plaintiff's lawyer done TCs chemical test with BP TC would likely not be making guns today, a but a friend did not do this until well after the case was done). PLUS the fact that ALL MLs are HANDLOADS.
The plaintiff cannot "prove" he loaded it right. Its a MASSIVE safety net for the people using low quality steel for gun barrels. But it does little to replace broken hands and shrapnel wounds.

I used to have, on another website, a PM with a photo of a man setting at a rendezvous with one hand as a result of his fowler barrel failing at the wedding bands. But I lost it when the site upgraded and I failed to move it to my hard drive.
There were NUMEROUS reports of failures in the old Buckskin Report. But don't expect to see it in any magazine today. Its poison to advertising. John's insistence on telling the raw truth eventually put the magazine out of business.
Pa Keeler had a Douglas on a rifle be built fail and put it in MB back in the late 1960s and Douglas would no longer sell him barrels. I saw another at about this time, a 13/16 45 cal. He was a builder and also sold parts as a dealer. So you won't see much about blow ups or barrel steels in Muzzle Blasts again.
There have, for example, been a rash of blow ups of stainless steel firearms. Sako had a recall, a number of stainless 1911 45ACP barrels failed. The 1911 failures were interesting because in that design the BRASS CASE always fails FIRST in an over pressure. Unless the barrel is 416-416R than fails at normal pressure levels it would seem. You see 416 is essentially the 12L14 of the stainless world and to my knowledge is not approved for "pressure vessels". But there has been no write up in the American Rifleman. People that make stainless steel guns buy ads after all. So they can do no wrong. Its a subject that is better kept swept under a rug someplace be it modern shotguns, rifles or pistols or MLs (all have had failures related to SHORTCUTS IN MATERIALS), but its not something you will see written up, again is bad for business.
The burst barrel picture here is a classic brittle fracture. It would not have occurred with 1137 or 4140-4150 GB steels that are properly anealled/heat treated. I am surprised it deformed as much as it did. But its very unpredictable.
Someone here states that the 4140 barrels he has seen burst fragment.
This can be misleading. If a modern barrel or revolver cylinder fragments its invariably the result of using TOO LIGHT A CHARGE. This has been known since the 1930s. But its so counter-intuitive that nobody wants to believe it.
But its been proven repeatedly in the field and in the labs in small arms and artillery pieces.
Bullseye and Red Dot in pistols and reduced charges of 2400, any IMR and similar rifle powders in a rifle will blow modern firearms into fragments. I first heard of this decades ago when people were trying to shoot cast bullet loads in 7mm and 300 Mags with 4831.
However, BP WILL NOT DO THIS, it is chemically incapable.
Modern steels and even properly made welded iron barrels have a higher strength than BP will produce in a firearm.
Since BP will not burst a barrel due to low pressure how is it they burst anyway? The steel is wrong. If the steel is brittle it will be very weak under shock loading. Firearms ALL shock load the barrel. If the steel has inclusions of lead, or phosphorus or sulfur it can be seriously weakened and embrittled. Modern barrel steels like 4150 GB quality are carefully made to ASSURE that they will make the standard for the quality grade. They are tested, then tested again and CERTIFIED to have very low levels of flaws and impurities.
A 4150 barrel will tolerate being heated to incandescence in 5.56 or 7.62 or 50 BMG and keep right on shooting. Anyone who has served in actual combat knows this. How do the barrel not burst? The alloy is carefully chosen and the quality is maintained. Its impossible to buy this steel in small lots. Its made in furnace melt quantities at minimum and must be ordered in this way. The "custom" ML barrel makers cannot or will not buy steel this expensive and hard to get. So small makers who use GB quality steel pool orders to get the tonnage up then take delivery of 10 or 20 or what ever tonnage they need. OR they buy from someone who has steel in stock and will sell them some.
But its impossible to maintain this quality in a steel made with no strict standards and no significant testing, mill run steel. This is what 12L14 is. Its the same quality as a wood screw you would buy at the hardware store.

So rather than ask how many barrels have failed lets ask:
Why would I want a barrel made of the cheapest possible material, that the steel makes specifically say not to use. Then load with powder and lead and place my face right next to the part of the barrel containing the powder charge?

I used to work in place that made rifle barrels. I have seen the results of underloading with smokeless. I have seen what occurs when brittle steel is button rifled. I have a friend who has even more experience in the same field. A major name in modern custom barrels told him in a conversation that anyone who saw 12L14 being made vs 4150 GB being made would never dream of using 12l14 for a barrel.
The only people that advocate the use of 12L14 are the barrel makers who are too cheap or lazy to use even 1137 GB. Using 4150 vs 12L14 will increase tool wear by a factor of 5 or 10 and it will require lapping as well. It would increase the cost and the average ML user in the US is too cheap to pay it.
Gunmakers who use 12L14 risk losing everything if the wrong person gets hurt and has a good lawyer. Even if the plaintiff loses the lawyer fees can run to mid 6 figures (I know an attorney who makes flintlocks). The information has been out there for decades, there is no "I didn't know defense" the gunmaker is supposed to KNOW his trade.
One 12L14 user has admitted IN PRINT that he will use blanks with obvious flaws if the flaw will clean in the machining process. My attorney friend read this and said "that was just stupid".
The fact that the steel has cracks in it should tell anyone that the steel IS UNSUITABLE for an application where its failure could COST A HUMAN LIFE.

Someone quotes Cunningham. He posted a LOT of text in the old Buckskin Report years and years ago trying to refute a metallurgist and a STEEL COMPANY'S advice NOT TO USE 12L14. One of teh final pieces in this long (issue after issue) discussion was from a lawyer. He basically said that Cunningham would have no defense if a barrel failed. In court he would be toast. I suppose i should scan it and post it. But its pointless.

Finally while the handloader defense and creative junk science saved TC years ago, who saves the victim? Who restores his or her missing parts?
A lady I know fairly well lost a large part of her hand last month shooting a rifle that they had been warned repeatedly was totally unsafe for anything more than 22rf. But someone made a 40-65 on the frame anyway and it finally failed.
It was no accident. It was as foreseeable as parking on a railroad track. If you park on the RR tracks long enough a train WILL come. Its no accident. I see 12L14 barrels the same way.

Dan
 
laffindog said:
jerry huddleston said:
Yes -accross the flats but where? Is it swamped?
For a hunting load I would shoot 90 to 95 grs of ffg. I would proof the barrel with 200 grs of ffg and one prb, twice and check the measurements with a micrometer each time. Then I would proof it with 100 grs of ffg and two prbs once then measure it again. If it passes that which it most likely will then it will take a real fool to blow it up. when you proof it be sure to tie the barrel down real well. Do I need to tell anybody not to be near the barrel when proofing it? Go hide after lightinng the fuse. Use fuse at least 6" long.

I and a helper tried to find out how much it would take to blow one of my 12L14 brrels. First we measured and marked the barrel every inch with the dimension to one thou. inch. Started with 160 gr. of FFg and two balls. I had made a special jig to hold the barrel so we could remove it and measure fairly easily. worked our way up to 240 gr w/ two balls tightly patched. Not a single difference. We quit there.

240 gr of FFg is what I figure a quadruple charge of powder and that is hard even for a complete fool to do by mistake. Now, we didn't try creating an obstruction, I already know what would happen without ruining a barrel to prove it.

Try loading powder, patched ball, powder, patched ball in a 44" B weight 50 cal swamp (this barrel was shortened 4" at the breech in building the rifle so the breech is smaller than it would be on a full length barrel). Use 90 gr of FFF Swiss for each powder charge.
I know of a 1137 GM barrel that stood this with no change in dimension interior or out and its still in use.
The problem with 12L14 is inclusions, cracks and other internal flaws it typically contains being a low quality steel with no certification. In fact inclusions are common due to the high levels of lead, sulfur and phosphorous it contains to make it free machining for use in making screws in automatic screw machines. LaSalle Steel specifically stated in a letter to John Baird back in the 1980s that it not be used for gun barrels.

Barrelsteel043_1.jpg


If you make barrels from 12L14 or any other low quality steel you should ask an expert in liability law if it's a good idea or not.
You can show him the letter. I have other material by a metallurgist and an attorney as well.
:hmm: I have a 37" B weight 50 cal 12L14 take off barrel out in the shop. Maybe I will try the double load in it.

Dan
 
powder patched ball on top of powder patched ball is almost a sure thing to blow one up even if it is modern 4140 steel.
This is a fool’s load. What it creates is an explosive bore obstruction. The front charge goes off in front of the rear charge creating two opposing pressures.
 
As is often the case, there's more disinformation than information on the internet. A typical mill "alloy certification" is only to show that a random sample shows the "alloy composition" of that particular lot falls within the parameters of the alloy designation. If specifically identified, the "processing method(s)" will be a separate certification. And, unless the certification is for a specifically identifed non-destructive test/inspection conducted on every single piece of stock contained in the lot, it means absolutely nothing as to the mechanical quality of said lot such as the presence or lack of inclusions/flaws happening after the alloy leaves the furnace.

"Service testing" or "proofing" proves nothing more than the item did not fail "that time" and does not mean the item will not fail from subsequent cyclic stresses or any other reason. If done incorrectly, service testing can meet or exceed the proportional limits of the material and/or assembly without producing any obvious indications yet the material/assembly has been damaged and is no longer safe for service. Also, one can test until the cows come home but there's no guarantee that the item/assembly won't fail at some point under normal service conditions, all proper testing methods establish is an "acceptable service risk factor" which does NOT include any factoring for human error, apathy, ignorance or just plain stupidity.

The notion that black powder "cannot develop enough pressure to..." is pure bunk! Under the right, or more appropriately the "wrong", conditions black powder is capable of developing in excess of 100,000 psi which is plenty more than enough to destroy any modern mega-magnum nitro burner. Air-space with black powder loads presents the same potential for explosive detonation as under-charges of nitro powder in a cartridge as the problem is caused by air-space and not the chemical composition of the propellant. A Ruger Blackhawk capable of withstanding a 60,000 psi nitro proof loads suffered a catastrophic failure from under-charged black powder & round ball loads.
 
FL-Flinter said:
"Service testing" or "proofing" proves nothing more than the item did not fail "that time" and does not mean the item will not fail from subsequent cyclic stresses or any other reason.

If done incorrectly, service testing can meet or exceed the proportional limits of the material and/or assembly without producing any obvious indications yet the material/assembly has been damaged and is no longer safe for service.

Amen...and in particular I've been skeptical of the home made back yard "tie it to a tire" variety of proof testing ever since hearing about it after getting into muzzleloading.

For example: A triple powder charge with triple patched balls on top does not give me warm fuzzies that I should then assume that barrel is now perfect...just the opposite.
 
"For example: A triple powder charge with triple patched balls on top does not give me warm fuzzies that I should then assume that barrel is now perfect...just the opposite."
A load such as that is not a recognized proof test.
I am not refering to you however, It has been the concensus for hundreds of years by most of the best in the profession that barrels should be proof tested. Still some today say thay know better. We should just go ahead and shoot them because if we test them they might blow up. DUH- not me!! I actually heard a guy say this on another well known forum. Personally I don't want to be the first one to shoot any gun with a unproven barrel. All others are perfectly welcome to do so after I put some distance between them and I.
 
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