Bdms-- c1018? for pistol barrel

[Derek Rose]

Bdms ..bright drawn mild steel here in the UK. I believe your equivalent is c1018. Would this make a flintlock pistol barrel?

 

[R.M.]

That would be what we call "Cold Rolled Steel".
Myself, I wouldn't trust it, but then a lot of barrels are made from leaded stock, so what do I know.

 

[Derek Rose]

We seem to have a language difference here! What is leaded stock? Ive got a chunk of en3b ...does that mean anything to you guys? I last used it to make stays for a steam engine boiler

 

[R.M.]

There is a free-machining type of steel common over here 12L14. It has lead in it's content, which makes it a very nice mild steel to machine. I've heard of barrels made from it, but don't know much more about it.

 

[Derek Rose]

Could be what we commonly call "gun metal" however here that also seems to be a term used for whatever is thrown back in the pot!
I might try making the barrel from bdms and prove it with 2 rounds and a double charge (while hiding behind a thick wall)...Im sure Ive seen brass used in old guns, mild steel must be stronger, and probably better than what was going about 200 years ago. Mind you, our forebears probably blew themselves up...I dont wish to go the same way, even though Im too old to die young!

 

[Zonie]

Your "bright drawn mild steel" would probably be a low carbon steel that was drawn thru a die to give it a good finish.

If so it would be similar to our 1018 or 1020 which are low carbon steels.

Speaking of cold finished wrought low carbon steel (not DOM tubing) they usually have a tensile strength of around 62,000 psi with a yield strength of around 53,000 psi.

Either of these will work all right for the pressures found in muzzleloading black powder guns.

If the mechanical properties of your "bdms" are similar then it should be fine.

As for proofing your barrels, as you live in England you may have to have them proofed at a Proof House? If so, their set up to do the job and conduct the necessary tests following proofing.

An individual, in my opinion should not proof their own barrels unless they have access to someone who can conduct Magnetic Particle Inspection or Fluorescent Penetrant Inspection (at the very least).
A post proof inspection is needed to assure that a internal flaw was not created by the test. Just looking at the barrel by eye is not sufficient.

 

[Stophel]

1018 would be at least as good as wrought iron!

:wink:

 

[LRB]

Probably better.

 

[Stophel]

As I understand it, Mauser rifles were constructed of 1018/1020 mild steel, barrels included. (Receivers and parts were case hardened, though)

 

[LRB]

Acually Chris, very few Mauser recievers were cased. I can't think of any military Mauser that was. They are easy to drill and tap as is. Other than high custom, the only one I can think of that was cased was the old Santa Barbara commercial actions. You can warp the old Mauser actions if you drop one on a hard floor. I love the 98's, and the swede 96's aren't bad if you get used to cock on close.

 

[Derek Rose]

Ok.. Looked it up. Mild steel is defined as no alloy, .25 (or less) % carbon.Do EN grades mean anything to you guys, or is this just a european thing?

 

[Zonie]

It's a European thing but with .25% carbon, we would call it a "1025" and it has the same mechanical properties as 1018 which is fine for a muzzleloading, black powder barrel.

An old rule of thumb was that a black powder barrel wall when made of a steel like this should be at least .200 thick at the breech.

That rule should help you determine what size of stock you will need.

 

[shortstring]

The only problem with 1018, 1020 or 1025 is that they are terrible to machine. Check with a steel supplier before you go that way.

Leaded steel cuts like butter. 4140 or 4150 is a bit more nasty to machine but with sharp tools & oil or water soluable oil you will get a good machined surface.

Paul