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Bee's Wax

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My wife and I make candles on a regular basis, keep bees, raise sheep, cattle, shoot deer, and thus have some experience with candle making using different substances. I haven't tried a 100% tallow candle simply because I'm more interested in something usable than being PC, though I'm quite interested in making some rush lights one of these days.

A 50/50 beeswax/tallow mix makes a pretty nice candle -- less drippy than pure beeswax, but it'll still drip quite a bit. The type of tallow (deer, sheep, beef) doesn't seem to make a significant difference. A small addition of stearic acid (which is created from tallow through some high temp industrial process, and is not PC to my knowledge) will really cut down on dripping. Lately, I've been using candle followers, which pretty much eliminates the dripping on beeswax w/stearic acid candles, so now I'm wondering how it would work on beeswax/tallow or even pure beeswax. I'm thinking they might eliminate the need for stearic acid.

I've blogged about this subject (as well as experiences with oil lamps) if anyone is interested in a little more detail: https://haymanfarm.blogspot.com/2018/03/revelations-in-cutting-edge-lighting.html
 
Lately, I've been using candle followers, which pretty much eliminates the dripping on beeswax w/stearic acid candles, so now I'm wondering how it would work on beeswax/tallow or even pure beeswax. I'm thinking they might eliminate the need for stearic acid.

I have to admit, I didn't know about "followers" other than the one used on a UCO candle lantern.
Very interesting. Do you know how far back they go?
 
Carbon 6, I did a quick google on candle followers, but couldn't find a history on them. I know they have been used in churches for many years to protect altars from wax drippings from altar candles and speculate they go back several hundred years at least if not longer.
 
I haven't been able to find any information regarding the historical use of candle followers, or when they first came about. They're very simple devices, and I suspect they go back many centuries (at least to the first use of beeswax candles, I suspect), but I really don't know. If anyone else knows, I'd love to be enlightened!

BTW -- I see that stearic acid was first produced in the 1830s, so it could be period correct depending upon the period you're shooting for.
 
One other note on tallow candles requiring wick trimming... I believe this is a function of the wick, not the material of the candle itself. As I understand it, all wicks needed trimming when they were of twisted construction. The braided/plaited wicks (which we use today) are "self trimming" wicks, first invented in 1824.
 
From what I remember, there were 3 types of candles available in the 18th century.
You missed one ... maybe ... bayberries (unless that is what you meant by ‘candleberry’. Bayberries are predominantly found in New England and/or coastal regions. Early American settlers discovered that boiling these berries would remove the wax, which could then be variously strained and further refined to make candles. The process itself is somewhat arduous if done in the traditional way, but yields an evenly-burning candle with plenty of fragrance.

Beeswax candles were found in the Egyptian pyramids.
 
You missed one ... maybe ... bayberries (unless that is what you meant by ‘candleberry’. Bayberries are predominantly found in New England and/or coastal regions. Early American settlers discovered that boiling these berries would remove the wax, which could then be variously strained and further refined to make candles. The process itself is somewhat arduous if done in the traditional way, but yields an evenly-burning candle with plenty of fragrance.

Beeswax candles were found in the Egyptian pyramids.
Candleberry and Bayberry are the same.
 
David, I found your web site very interesting. You have some very fixed opinions. I don't agree with several but that is OK.
You said:
have some experience with candle making using different substances.

When I was doing rendezvous I would look for vendors selling candles made in Israel. These were very clean burning and lasted a long time. I still have a couple dozen in the freezer. Do you know what kind of wax these are made from? They are the best candles I have ever used.
 
One other note on tallow candles requiring wick trimming... I believe this is a function of the wick, not the material of the candle itself. As I understand it, all wicks needed trimming when they were of twisted construction. The braided/plaited wicks (which we use today) are "self trimming" wicks, first invented in 1824.
Modern wicks are also treated with boric acid/borax which helps them burn evenly.
 
If you didn’t see the bees wax come out of a hive box or from a real bee keep then most likely the bees wax you buy will be
faux, imitation, artificial. The chemical industry has for a long time been able to produce imitation bees wax.
I bought bees wax. Is it genuine bees wax? I would bet against it being genuine pure bees wax. Looks good smells good and it worked good in the batch of Emmerts I made. Maybe it has some small percentage of genuine bees wax in it, but I doubt it.
Consider the world wide bee die off and the demand for bees wax, to think every pound of bees wax being sold is genuine and pure is just wishful thinking.
 
Synthetic beeswax Cas# 71243-51-1 does exist. I priced some and it runs about $22.00 a pound. It is off-white to slightly yellow, and is odorless.
Synthetic bees wax is used in cosmetics, creams, lotions, furniture and leather polishes, medical/dental waxes, dyes, inks, etc.

Synthetic beeswax should be accompanied by terms such as Synthetic or substitute. The term refined is used for both synthetic and natural. Other identifiers would include, the Word "vegan" the cas# or the term Cerebel, eg. Cerabel BWS Cerabel CA Cerabel D157 Cerabel L109 Cerabel L118 Cerabel R260 Cerabel S30 Cerabel S40 Cerabel SCA etc. Of course new trade names are registered all the time. If the wax comes in pelletized form it's probably synthetic.

Real Beeswax (Cera Alba)
CAS# 8012‐89‐3
It can be brown, yellow, or white (bleached) should have a honey smell (not sure about white). It is usually accompanied by the words 100% pure, made from honey comb, or a product of bees.


Some things to think about,
Synthetic functions just like real so I don't know that it would make a difference in a muzzleloader, Synthetic is used in many of the same applications as real. It can be mixed with real. I would be wary of Chinese, cosmetic, or chemical suppliers when looking for real beeswax.
Read your labels, Especially the small print. Get to know a local producer, this is your best source IMO.

Synthetic beeswax is not the same as paraffin wax. Yes they are both synthetic but they are formulated differently. I would stay away from paraffin.



I bought bees wax. Is it genuine bees wax?

I'm not aware of a widespread problem of adulteration or substitution of beeswax happening. Not like you see with honey. Given the price of synthetic, it seems unlikely,

I'd love to hear your thoughts on the matter.
 
A recipe I got from a friend to make a barrel wax coating is a mix of beeswax and boiled lindseed oil. I warmed the wax and added the oil to make a soft rubon wax kine if the consistancy of a chap stick. I am often shooting and carrying in the rain. It make the water bead up and roll off like carwax, yet is still cleanable. Keeps the rust from forming. I put a small amount in my possibles in a cap tin.
 
I get my beeswax from the bee keeper who sells honey and beeswax at rendezvous. I don't worry that it may be faux.
 
David, I found your web site very interesting. You have some very fixed opinions. I don't agree with several but that is OK.
You said:

Hopefully my views aren't too fixed, but I am definitely a bit of a weirdo, increasingly so since I lost all faith in television and mainstream news sources a few decades ago 8^) . At least we agree on the *important* issues, such as muzzleloaders and technologies such as candles!
 
Yep we established that they haven't been pure beeswax for about a half century.
Lots of places to find beeswax online, or at craft/hobby stores. A good wood working store might have it, try a good farmers market or gardening show.

Go to the grocery store, look at honey brands on the shelf, read the labels, see if one is made locally, get the address, if their local they probably sell wax.
A little beeswax goes a long way, it doesn't take much to stiffen oil.
 
I have a friend and neighbor who is an insect exterminator. He brings home the comb after relocating hives in or near homes.

Here is some he brought me last fall. Note that the bees were locals who are opportunists and came after a day and got most of the honey (we got some before they arrived). That's a five gallon pail. It does take a few melts and scrapings to get all the bee parts and crud out. But the price is right. And the honey is delicious!

UboVTF3.jpg
 

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