LOL, They do have good start packages no matter their reputation 
Belt Pouch
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Dragonsfire,
If these are some of your very first projects, I have to say I am impressed. You show promise.
After looking at your awl holes and thread, I wonder what kind of thread you are using? If it is waxed linen thread that’s great. It does look like the size of awl you are using is too big for the thread, though. Would you like some tips on good thread, awls, etc.?
You have already mentioned you know the stampings are not correct and that is a good thing. Have to say I love the Celtic Knot decoration for many things, but not that kind of stamping because it just isn’t correct for the period. This is not to say that stamping and other forms of decoration were not used on period items and some going a whole lot further back than the 1820’s period, but there are not a lot of stamping tools sold by Tandy that are not correct. Some stampings and decoration are also correct for some time periods and geographic locations, but not others.
I wasn’t sure what time period you were going for when I first read your original post in this thread and another thread. If you have decided to begin with the 1820’s, that’s fine. Depending on what you want to carry in a belt pouch in that period, I’m sure some forum members can give you some tips and information on that period.
Gus
If these are some of your very first projects, I have to say I am impressed. You show promise.
After looking at your awl holes and thread, I wonder what kind of thread you are using? If it is waxed linen thread that’s great. It does look like the size of awl you are using is too big for the thread, though. Would you like some tips on good thread, awls, etc.?
You have already mentioned you know the stampings are not correct and that is a good thing. Have to say I love the Celtic Knot decoration for many things, but not that kind of stamping because it just isn’t correct for the period. This is not to say that stamping and other forms of decoration were not used on period items and some going a whole lot further back than the 1820’s period, but there are not a lot of stamping tools sold by Tandy that are not correct. Some stampings and decoration are also correct for some time periods and geographic locations, but not others.
I wasn’t sure what time period you were going for when I first read your original post in this thread and another thread. If you have decided to begin with the 1820’s, that’s fine. Depending on what you want to carry in a belt pouch in that period, I’m sure some forum members can give you some tips and information on that period.
Gus
More tips would be greatly appreciated.
The whole point is for me to get practice and experience in this craft so period accuracy has not been the point, just practice. I have been combing sites trying to find accurate decor/symbols for the periods but to no luck. Latest designs im working on is the Thistle.
Still collecting tools, still need ones for fine work. Using the "Speedy Stitcher Awl" and the extra thread spool that came with it. http://www.speedystitcher.com/
I would like to but together a fire starter pouch. Once I have my flintlock kit then I would make a pouch to carry the parts for that, will be getting the traditions BP kit.
Thank you!
The whole point is for me to get practice and experience in this craft so period accuracy has not been the point, just practice. I have been combing sites trying to find accurate decor/symbols for the periods but to no luck. Latest designs im working on is the Thistle.
Still collecting tools, still need ones for fine work. Using the "Speedy Stitcher Awl" and the extra thread spool that came with it. http://www.speedystitcher.com/
I would like to but together a fire starter pouch. Once I have my flintlock kit then I would make a pouch to carry the parts for that, will be getting the traditions BP kit.
Thank you!
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Guest
Practicing the banjo won't help you play the piano. :rotf:Dragonsfire said:
Then provide a proper tune that I can play please
Guest
I suggest you narrow down a time, place and "character". Only then will you be able to focus on the proper equipment for yourself. IMODragonsfire said:Then provide a proper tune that I can play please
I understand, really.
Problem is I still have the image of Fess Parker and his appearance burned into my mind and trying not to have that influence me. Understanding that Daniel Boon died in 1820 if I recall, so I guess maybe The Daniel Boon Mountain Man/Woodsman is my subconscious focus, Ive always loved camping and the mountains, my favorite Photography objects.
Problem is I still have the image of Fess Parker and his appearance burned into my mind and trying not to have that influence me. Understanding that Daniel Boon died in 1820 if I recall, so I guess maybe The Daniel Boon Mountain Man/Woodsman is my subconscious focus, Ive always loved camping and the mountains, my favorite Photography objects.
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Dragonsfire said:
Get yourself a copy of this book. About the best $10 a leather worker can spend. It's all about using an awl, needles and thread. The saddle stitch taught in it is really durable. I own and still use a Speedystitcher for emergency repairs, but it's stitch is pretty fragile. Break the thread in one spot and the whole seam comes apart. With a saddle stitch, break a thread and get around to fixing it sooner or later, but the seam isn't going to unravel.
On the subject of tooling, why not make your own? No personal examples, but a bud makes his own using everything from hardwood (for big patterns) to steel rod (for small tools). Sure seems to have a lot of fun making them while turning out excellent leather. If I was a stamper, I'd be there in a heartbeat.
Thanks!
I did recently get that book, did a quick read, been making sewing horse but have not finished it, the compression screw I have to replace, too short.
I do reinforce the seams with leather contact cement. The hole chisels are also not the diamond one but the straight ones that were shipped to me (from HK)
Need to dig out my dremel tool and see if I can make my own tools, live in apartment so not much room
I did recently get that book, did a quick read, been making sewing horse but have not finished it, the compression screw I have to replace, too short.
I do reinforce the seams with leather contact cement. The hole chisels are also not the diamond one but the straight ones that were shipped to me (from HK)
Need to dig out my dremel tool and see if I can make my own tools, live in apartment so not much room
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Dragonsfire said:
I actually prefer the straight ones on the rare occasion I use them rather than an awl. Mostly I just mark the holes with an overstitch wheel or pricking wheel, then use the awl to pierce.
Jack Wilson said:
I have brother who found that being skilled with a cello translated into being able to pick up a mandoline and several other stringed instruments play them competently with a couple hours practice.
Even in your analogy the banjo player would have some basic music skills that would aid him in learning the piano.
Point being, a lot of skills learned from doing non-PC projects will be useful when he turns his hand to doing PC projects.
I have a pricking wheel, I find the holes too far apart. On the chisels I try not to go all the way in, hard on my fingers punching unholy leather.
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Dragonsfire,
Al Stohlman’s book came out about 6 years after I began doing amateur leather work and if I had it earlier, it would have saved me many mistakes. Could not agree more with Brown Bear about using two needles and thread instead of that “wheeled sewing awl thing.” I bought one myself before I found out about saddle stitching and I have not used the “wheeled sewing awl thing” since.
Next thing is go to the link below that was originally written by our Dear Departed Forum Member “LaBonte” aka Chuck Burrows of the Wild Rose Trading Company. This is a SUPERB tutorial for novice leather workers and even more experienced leather workers can learn some great tips here. I most heartily recommend you read this three or four times as there is SO MUCH great stuff there, one can miss things by reading it only once or twice. Chuck was a full time, apprentice trained leather worker who forgot more than most of us will ever know. His generosity at sharing information with us will never be forgotten. BTW, you can do a Forum Search here for “LaBonte” and read many of his posts. http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html
I also strongly recommend spending some time watching/learning from Nigel Armitage’s leather working videos. The first two I would watch are 1. Saddle Stitch in Detail, and then 2. Sharpening a Saddler’s Awl. After that I would suggest watching some of his “Pricking Iron Reviews” and then whichever videos interest you. You can find them by scrolling down the following link: https://www.youtube.com/user/Nordicbadger
As for tools, you can’t beat Joseph Dixon (first choice) or Osborne Tools (a close second choice). http://boothandco.com/handtools.php
OK, will post more on bags/belt pouches in my next post.
Gus
Al Stohlman’s book came out about 6 years after I began doing amateur leather work and if I had it earlier, it would have saved me many mistakes. Could not agree more with Brown Bear about using two needles and thread instead of that “wheeled sewing awl thing.” I bought one myself before I found out about saddle stitching and I have not used the “wheeled sewing awl thing” since.
Next thing is go to the link below that was originally written by our Dear Departed Forum Member “LaBonte” aka Chuck Burrows of the Wild Rose Trading Company. This is a SUPERB tutorial for novice leather workers and even more experienced leather workers can learn some great tips here. I most heartily recommend you read this three or four times as there is SO MUCH great stuff there, one can miss things by reading it only once or twice. Chuck was a full time, apprentice trained leather worker who forgot more than most of us will ever know. His generosity at sharing information with us will never be forgotten. BTW, you can do a Forum Search here for “LaBonte” and read many of his posts. http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html
I also strongly recommend spending some time watching/learning from Nigel Armitage’s leather working videos. The first two I would watch are 1. Saddle Stitch in Detail, and then 2. Sharpening a Saddler’s Awl. After that I would suggest watching some of his “Pricking Iron Reviews” and then whichever videos interest you. You can find them by scrolling down the following link: https://www.youtube.com/user/Nordicbadger
As for tools, you can’t beat Joseph Dixon (first choice) or Osborne Tools (a close second choice). http://boothandco.com/handtools.php
OK, will post more on bags/belt pouches in my next post.
Gus
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Dragonsfire said:
Please understand I am not trying to be critical, but do you have a real pricking wheel (very uncommon) or the much more common overstitch wheel? They look something alike, but are not the same things. The pricking wheel actually chisels into the leather a little bit, while the overstitch tool just marks the leather with the points.
Do you know how many spots/marks per inch your tool makes?
Gus
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Artificer said:
That's the important question. I get away with an overstitch wheel just fine up to 8/inch but for the 10/inch sewing on thinner leather, I prefer a pricking wheel.
You also need to adjust the size of your awl point (and hole) to match thread size, hole spacing and distance of the seam from the edge of the leather.
Edit-
One more point for the back of your brain:
Stitching ponies are fine for sewing flat seams, mostly along straight lines. For butt joints, right angle joints, bends and curves, I prefer to make a wooden form or "last" (think foot forms for sewing shoes), I prefer to make a wooden form, then tack the leather into place using 5/8" cobbler tacks ala Stohlman. Just be sure to seat the tacks in places where a stitch will go once the tack is removed, so you don't end up with extra holes. It really eases your sewing life, while also turning out much neater stitching. I make a lot of leather boxes and cylindrical cases, so I make a lot of forms.
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BrownBear said:
EXACTAMUNDO!! Is that a real word? :haha:
This is covered in detail on the knife sewing sheath tutorial for that use from Chuck Burrows that I linked above. If I were starting all over again in leather working; I would use the thread type and size, holes per inch, size of needles, awl size, etc., etc. that Chuck mentioned and then go on from there for other projects.
Gus
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Yup. It's a goodun.
One more point before I go off to work with a new rifle:
Awls should be sharper than sharp, polished to a mirror bright with successively finer rouge. If you're having to push hard to pierce leather, it's not sharp and smooth enough. I can pass my favorite awl through two pieces of 8oz leather about as easily as if the hole was already there.
One other point on awls- I like 2 flat sides on the handle oriented to match the flat sides on the awl. First off, the flat sides keep your painstakingly sharpened awl from rolling off the bench. The orientation with the blade makes it easy to keep the awl blade oriented correctly.
Recently I've fallen in love with these cheap small awls. They take and hold a polish better than many costing 5x as much.
One more point before I go off to work with a new rifle:
Awls should be sharper than sharp, polished to a mirror bright with successively finer rouge. If you're having to push hard to pierce leather, it's not sharp and smooth enough. I can pass my favorite awl through two pieces of 8oz leather about as easily as if the hole was already there.
One other point on awls- I like 2 flat sides on the handle oriented to match the flat sides on the awl. First off, the flat sides keep your painstakingly sharpened awl from rolling off the bench. The orientation with the blade makes it easy to keep the awl blade oriented correctly.
Recently I've fallen in love with these cheap small awls. They take and hold a polish better than many costing 5x as much.
Pricking wheel is 3.5mm distance. 8/inch.
http://i1249.photobucket.com/album...Projects/Leather Craft/index_zpsrgyecu5l.jpeg
I have been using the end of a table to punch holes, works well so far. Ive been looking at lasts since I do shoes, problem is this all cost allot when starting up so been collecting slowly.
Been looking for while jewelers polish but not successful yet, by the way the Awl is very sharp, not nice to stab fingers lol Its more do with my hands being a bit arthritic.
Ian Atkinson is my fav to watch and have watched all his stuff, also watched Armitage Leather. As they say, use it or loose it. Have to rewatch/read the stitching stuff wants I start doing it. I have the needles and thread from Tandy
but have not used them. Do watch out for sales at tandy, I am gold member and that helps a bit.
No critical points taken, help and pointers always appreciated, cant learn without
Thanks for the Links, more reading
I have been using the end of a table to punch holes, works well so far. Ive been looking at lasts since I do shoes, problem is this all cost allot when starting up so been collecting slowly.
Been looking for while jewelers polish but not successful yet, by the way the Awl is very sharp, not nice to stab fingers lol Its more do with my hands being a bit arthritic.
Ian Atkinson is my fav to watch and have watched all his stuff, also watched Armitage Leather. As they say, use it or loose it. Have to rewatch/read the stitching stuff wants I start doing it. I have the needles and thread from Tandy
but have not used them. Do watch out for sales at tandy, I am gold member and that helps a bit.
No critical points taken, help and pointers always appreciated, cant learn without
Thanks for the Links, more reading
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Dragonsfire said:
Tandy sells it, calling it Polishing compound. I use the green, red and white in succession (after shaping with a file and sanding with a succession of sandpaper grits, finishing with 2000) before I ever get around to the polishing.
Apply them to a leather strop such as this one from Tandy or make your own.
Was planning to make my own Leather Strop, whats the best leather to use, sued or reg veg tan? Got lots of scraps.
Thanks!
Guessing the 8oz veg tan I have would work best since it needs to be oiled first if I recall.
Thanks!
Guessing the 8oz veg tan I have would work best since it needs to be oiled first if I recall.
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