best glue

[jrbaker90]

I am starting to rebuild my tradition ky long rifle and I have been wondering what would be the best glue for gluing the two stocks together I used gorilla glue when I first built it and I didn't like it at all and I am just wanting opinions I've looked at a two part epoxy thanks

 

[jamesthomas]

A lot of folks use Titebond II for gluing stocks together.

 

[jrbaker90]

I've used it before to but I'm not gluing wood to wood it has a brass plate between the two stocks

 

[Rifleman1776]

Similar question to another thread today.
I prefer Titebond I or II. But strongly dislike TB III, CA, epoxy or Gorilla.

 

[Swamp Rat]

If I were doing it. I would knock off the brass put in a colored vaneer, or piece of yellow heart, or a piece of hickory and use titebond 2. Built bows with titebond two and the wood breaks before the tite bond does. TB2 does not foam swell like garilla either. CA is good but is hard and will crack.
You could do stacks of the different color vaneers and then cut cross and make a stripe half way up lots of options.

 

[Tinker2]

Lose the brass spacer and glue it with acraglass.



William Alexander

 

[Keb]

I just glued a hickory back on an osage bow today using Titebond II. Wonderful stuff for wood.

 

[Black Hand]

I just glued a hickory back on an osage bow today using Titebond II. Wonderful stuff for wood.

Good golly man! Why would you glue a hickory back on an osage bow? Was the back violated or was it too thin to achieve the draw weight you wanted? Just curious...

 

[jrbaker90]

Tell the truth I really like the brass plate I just think it looks good with it. I'm goin to have to get some titebond for another project so ill just use titebond a friend of swear by it

 

[tenngun]

Plain old elmers yellow carpenters glue. It dries tougher then the wood, Its just hoofs and hide so its h/c,. You have to oil and wax it well since its not water profe but its "stong as nails"

 

[necchi]

If you use the titebond and leave the brass in your wasting time.
Titebond is a wood glue and will not stick to the brass plate.

If you glue those sections together, you'll have to pull the pins to get the barrel out (no big deal).

It is a good idea to get those two sections solid.
Use acraglas or a good slow set epoxy like Devcon 2 ton, and while your at it,, it won't hurt to replace those two pins with something a little bigger and longer to help stabilize that split.

With Acraglas you can follow instructions using the supplied release agent and bed the barrel around that split area and the tang at the same time.

 

[Zonie]

If I wanted to leave the brass spacer in the assembly I would use the slowest curing clear epoxy I could find and give all of the surfaces a good coating of it.
That includes the dowels and the holes they go into.

Not only does using the slow curing epoxy give you more time to apply it and get everything lined up nicely, the slow curing epoxies are the strongest epoxies.

After the epoxy has cured I would sand off any excess that had squeezed out of the joint.


Be sure to rough up both surfaces of the brass plate. A very course sandpaper like a 50 or 60 grit should do. Also, totally degrease all of the metal parts that are going to be in the joint.

I would not use JB Weld even though it is a very strong, slow curing epoxy.
It's gray color would be very hard to hide.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I know there are a lot of good, strong adhesives, but when gluing a gunstock, I like to use those that are intended for gunstocks, for the makers of those understand the adhesive will be used outside, AND be subject to sharp recoil. I confess, though, of my ignorance about whether or not epoxies that are not specifically marketed for gunstocks are suitable. So I liked the old Brownell's Bedding Compound, and Brownell's Acraglass.

I am probably a victim of marketing hype, but I worry about some of the adhesives, especially those that when cured which are also brittle, or may become more brittle at very cold temps. I thought that Elmer's or Titebond seemed so, but as I stopped using them for guns many many years ago, they may have improved formulas.

LD

 

[Keb]

I just glued a hickory back on an osage bow today using Titebond II. Wonderful stuff for wood.

Good golly man! Why would you glue a hickory back on an osage bow? Was the back violated or was it too thin to achieve the draw weight you wanted? Just curious...

The hedge is a board, not a stave. The hickory keeps the hedge from "lifting". It's totally necessary to back osage in this situation if you don't want the bow to be fire wood.

 

[Rifleman1776]

If you use the titebond and leave the brass in your wasting time.
Titebond is a wood glue and will not stick to the brass plate.

Correct. Whole 'nuther ball game.
Mebbe pins and acraglas. Really dunno. :idunno:

 

[Tinker2]

Tell the truth I really like the brass plate I just think it looks good with it.

Keep the brass spacer then, and glue it with acraglass.
Titebond gets brittle

I have done that to a number of them.

Follow Zonie’s advice, don’t forget the ramrod hole, and don’t plug it with acraglass.


William Alexander

 

[Black Hand]

I just glued a hickory back on an osage bow today using Titebond II. Wonderful stuff for wood.

Good golly man! Why would you glue a hickory back on an osage bow? Was the back violated or was it too thin to achieve the draw weight you wanted? Just curious...

The hedge is a board, not a stave. The hickory keeps the hedge from "lifting". It's totally necessary to back osage in this situation if you don't want the bow to be fire wood.

In that case, I understand completely.

 

[44-henry]

I've seen a few done where the owners wrap a piece of wet rawhide around the stock at the joint, looks more like an old repair.

As for glue, personally I like good old slow cure epoxy.