Best Hawken 50cal for beginner

[Gene L]

I wouldn't go cheap nor would I go "custom" for a first ML. If you like the sport, you're probably going to want a rifle that's higher up the ladder than a cheap rifle. Of course, if you like to turn screws and make "improvements" on the rifle, what you need is a set of screwdrivers that fit. And good hard screwheads, which aren't given on a cheap rifle.

There's a reason cheap MLs are cheap. The wood (important to me), the parts, the sights on super-cheap rifle kits, which are in one case plastic.

Bottom line, if you don't like the sport, you've got a $300 gun that ends up in a yard sale. To me, it's a waste of money.

A respectable rifle doesn't have to break the bank, although a custom rifle will. Not a good idea to invest $3K in a sport you may not like. Not to mention the 1 year wait.

So my guns are mid-range rifles with walnut stocks (again, important to me) and decent parts. I've modified them, but not screwed them up. They're now very pleasing to me.

Now if I ran up on a cheap, dinged up and a bit rusty rifle with a good bore at a yard sale for $60, I'd probably buy it. Regardless of the caliber. Even though I don't need it. A bargain is something I can't ignore.

 

[Rattler]

Thanks Cowboys 1062. I'm headed right over to Gunbrokers to take a look.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I've had a Tompson Center Hawken in 50 cal for over 40 years and it has served me well. I also have a used Traditions in 50 that I bought at a local gun shop a couple of years ago for less than $100. It isn't as nice as the TC, but is still an accurate gun.

You said you were looking to spend $400-$650. For that kind of money, I would look to find a GPM or maybe something that is a little more historically correct than either the TC or Traditions or even the CVA. You may find you want to get more into historical aspects of the sport and then you would be ahead of the game.

 

[Jim C]

I acquired my first muzzleloader sort of by accident.

I was expressing my desire to try muzzleloading with a fellow shooter, and he pulled a dusty old box off a shelf.

He informed me some years ago it was given to him, he was told to give it to someone that would finish it.

In the box was a 70's vintage T/C Hawken kit. Minus instructions and a couple of small parts, but I learned a lot.

That was in 2008, my rifle now has hundreds of rounds down range, has introduced a number of people to muzzleloading and got me a first place at a local match.

Get something you like, and then learn to shoot it. Experiment with loads, patch thickness, different brands of ball. You can get some serious accuracy out of a PRB.

Tell me about it! I can shoot my ball rifles far far more accurately than anything else w/open sights all across the board with the exception of course of the lowly .22 rifle, but even it is nowhere near being any better at all. After over 40 yrs of burning black powder they still amaze the dickens out of me.

 

[Jim C]

I've had a Tompson Center Hawken in 50 cal for over 40 years and it has served me well. I also have a used Traditions in 50 that I bought at a local gun shop a couple of years ago for less than $100. It isn't as nice as the TC, but is still an accurate gun.

You said you were looking to spend $400-$650. For that kind of money, I would look to find a GPM or maybe something that is a little more historically correct than either the TC or Traditions or even the CVA. You may find you want to get more into historical aspects of the sport and then you would be ahead of the game.

:thumbsup: That's some excellent advise Jake. Couldn't have worded it any better imo.

 

[uno676]

I started with a cabelas/investarms great gun killed several deer with it and accurate for targets. I found another one in a pawn shop for $80 they are good quality gun maybe not HC but good starter.

 

[Walks with fire]

I like the Lyman deerstalker in .54 I bought a couple of years ago. It has a 24" barrel and accurate as well. This year I saw a Trade rifle barrel 28" long on deep discount that would fit the stock so I bought it as well. Both 48 twist but shoot ball well.

The theory is that 48 twist will be accurate up to 1800 fps. and the 24" with 100 grains gets less than 1550 while the 28" is around 1750.

Reasonable price imo at under 500 bucks new.

 

[Rattler]

Kansas Jake, what does GPM stand for?

 

[necchi]

Typo for GPR,
The Lyman Great Plains Rifle

 

[Kansas Jake]

Thanks Necchi. My fingers sometimes have a mind of their own.

 

[Rattler]

After several weeks of reading this forum and looking, I bought an Investarms 50 cal Hawken. It's new old stock. It was manufactured in the 1980's and has never been fired. I want to thank everyone for their input and especially Cowboy for the heads up on the rifle I purchased. Now I need to figure out all the equipment that I need to purchase. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Wes/Tex]

Powder, ball and patches are thd obvious first steps, along with cleaning gear and bore protectant. I'm sorry but haven't had personal experience with that rifle, but our 'catch all' gear for the state sponsered shoots we attend is .490" balls and .010" lubed patches and FFFg black powder. We use a 60 grain load since it's enough to get good results out of sevral different rifles adn accurate enough for hits on a 100 yard iron boar target for teh kids. We just clean with soap and warm water adn I use a olive oil as a bore protectant. You'll get a 100 different answers on wht's best but that works adn I go for quick and easy. Powder horn or flask is your choice but do get an adjustable powder measure and pour from holder to it before pouring into bore...have had loads flash twice in my life and you look awful and smell worse! :wink: I've gotten to the point in life where less is more. What you take to the range or into the field is up to you...old farts haul less stuff with them. If it was really that hard and took that much gear, Davy and Dan'il would never had made it! :haha: :thumbsup:

 

[Rattler]

Thanks for the reply. I figured I would start with balls and patch for sure till I figure out what I'm doing. Is their a favorite place online to buy this equipment?

 

[TNGhost]

Sam Fadala's "The Complete Muzzleloader Handbook" is definitely a worthwhile investment and a must read when getting started in black powder.

 

[Jim C]

Thanks for the reply. I figured I would start with balls and patch for sure till I figure out what I'm doing. Is their a favorite place online to buy this equipment?

Track of the Wolf is one of the best muzzleloader supply retailers in the biz. Then there's the Possibles Shop...The Log Cabin Shop....Midsouth Shooters Supply, and on and on.

 

[Rattler]

Thanks, That gives me a good start in picking up the needed supplies. I want to make sure that some salesmen doesn't sell me a bunch of expensive stuff that I really do not need. It can be tuff being a newbie!!

 

[Pratt1861]

Congrats on your rifle.

Some decisions on what equipment to buy and use will depend on whether you are going for HC or just shooting for fun. Also, will you be shooting where you can set your stuff up or are you on the move in a trecking/hunting situation.

Essentials(IMO and certainly not the end of the story)

Powder horn or flask for your powder (I shoot at a range where a loading bench is provided. I find the cylindrical flask ideal since it stands on it's own. You could also buy or make a spout for the can or bottle your powder comes in)

Adjustable Powder measure (I like the kind with a swivel funnel top)

Nipple wrench

Slotted Jag or brush for the Patent breach (I think your rifle has this. Basically the the breach area is a smaller diameter than the barrel so you need something that will get in there to clean it out)

Range rod (I like using a brass rod with a muzzle guard. Although, your factory rod may work just fine for you. Use short strokes.)

Cleaning/loading JAG

Short Starter

Cleaning patches and some solution for wiping. (I currently use 91% rubbing alcohol. Damp patch, not wet.)

Shooting patches. (I started with a .490 ball and a .10 patch so I wouldn't struggle with loading. I found a .10 patch easy to load but the patches were shredded and burned up. .18 provides me better accuracy and could be reused if I wanted but are harder to get started. .15 is a happy medium. Each gun is different though. I would buy a couple different sizes of pre-made, pre-lubed patches to start with.)

A plan to deal with a dry ball or fouled charge. This might include a ball puller and/or a discharge kit.

Clean with water, soap if you want to. Dry then chase with some WD-40 to get rid of remaining moisture. Dry patch then protect with Birchwood Casey Barricade. Swab with alcohol before loading the next time. Apply a small dab of anti-seize to your nipple.

Go slow and have fun!