Best oil for rust prevention

[hanshi]

Back in the day I used a lot of WD40 and 3 in 1 oil, and they worked very well. Later I used Hoppes, Outers, Rig and others and all were more than satisfactory. In recent times I came across Barricade and Break Free CLP for all bore protection. If I run out of those two almost any decent gun oil does the job perfectly. I still use a lot of WD40 in the cleaning process and buy it by the gallon. 3 in 1 oil is always on the bench.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

If you are using petroleum based oils with holy black powder you WRONG.
Petro oils and burnt BP makes some wonderful stuff called sludge.

By using only water/natural based cleaners and lubes, your 50th load will be the same as your first. Been there, done that, for 30 years.

My personal best times during trail walks is when one of the shooters (had 2 of them twice) clog their barrels up so bad they had to leave the firing line.

Have no fear, my TC1000+ lubed rifle will let ALL of us shoot the rest of the walk. Ive taken lots down the walk sharing my rifle. Twice two people (father and son). Three of us using my rifle, with the TC 1000+ lubes. Easy as pie.

 

[Bad Karma]

If you are using petroleum based oils with holy black powder you WRONG.
Petro oils and burnt BP makes some wonderful stuff called sludge.

By using only water/natural based cleaners and lubes, your 50th load will be the same as your first. Been there, done that, for 30 years.

My personal best times during trail walks is when one of the shooters (had 2 of them twice) clog their barrels up so bad they had to leave the firing line.

Have no fear, my TC1000+ lubed rifle will let ALL of us shoot the rest of the walk. Ive taken lots down the walk sharing my rifle. Twice two people (father and son). Three of us using my rifle, with the TC 1000+ lubes. Easy as pie.

That’s not been my experience. I’m in a pretty dry part of the country so straight beeswax will suffice to protect the bore from rusting. But the TC lubes have never been particularly advantageous in terms of multiple shots... in my t/c‘s if I’m using a .010 patch and .530 ball or .490 ball I can run 50 straight with nothing more than spit patches and wool wads. so why pay for the bore butter? Especially since Eezox protects metal far better and doesn’t react to black powder combustion in any way that I can detect.

 

[chix2111]

Oil and black powder rifles=misfires, hangfires, messed up triggers......double that for WD40.
Bore Butter if you can find it.

 

[TNGhost]

Been shooting guns of all sorts for over 50 years. Mostly used cheap 10W30 motor oil. Works good, never had a problem. Uncle Sam taught that CLP was good too.

The ugly legacy of traitors like Jackson, Lee, & the history revisionists is alive and well, as evidenced by the latest battle of that war on Jan. 6th, 2020. Must have been heartwarming for you to see the current batch of racist, white supremacists desecrate our capital. To call the perpetuation & the desire to expand slavery as just wanting "to live the way they chose" and to claim any American has the "right" to enslave someone is perverted. Jackson was a traitor who died for an evil cause. You can spin your revisionists lies & conspiracy theories all you want & feed the hate that drives us apart, but you can't change the truth. That's all I have to say about that.

Yep. Motor oil is one of the most highly engineered and tested lubricants and rust protectives on the planet and you can buy a lifetimes worth for hat you spend on one container of specialty gun oil

The only oil I use on any of my firearms is motor oil.

 

[TNGhost]

If you are using petroleum based oils with holy black powder you WRONG.
Petro oils and burnt BP makes some wonderful stuff called sludge.

By using only water/natural based cleaners and lubes, your 50th load will be the same as your first. Been there, done that, for 30 years.

My personal best times during trail walks is when one of the shooters (had 2 of them twice) clog their barrels up so bad they had to leave the firing line.

Have no fear, my TC1000+ lubed rifle will let ALL of us shoot the rest of the walk. Ive taken lots down the walk sharing my rifle. Twice two people (father and son). Three of us using my rifle, with the TC 1000+ lubes. Easy as pie.

For patch and bullet lube yes.

For cleaning lubrication of the lock and rust protection, not so much.

 

[user 49399]

I don't know if there is a "best" type of oil to use on a muzzleloader . Lots of things work. But I've never had a misfire caused by using motor oil on my muzzleloaders or any parts break because of it either. That's because I wipe the bore dry, wipe the pan on flintlocks and clear the nipple before firing. After firing, the guns are cleaned with water in the common manner. Motor oil is used to prevent rust during storage. I would be concerned lock parts could break without any lubricant. Just my 2 cents worth offered for free.✌

 

[Rokon]

EXTERIOR: Renaissance wax. Much better than any oil or fluid product
INTERIOR: BreakFree CO (Collector) Minimum 2-5 year protection.

 

[SDSmlf]

If you are using petroleum based oils with holy black powder you WRONG.
Petro oils and burnt BP makes some wonderful stuff called sludge.

By using only water/natural based cleaners and lubes, your 50th load will be the same as your first. Been there, done that, for 30 years.

My personal best times during trail walks is when one of the shooters (had 2 of them twice) clog their barrels up so bad they had to leave the firing line.

Have no fear, my TC1000+ lubed rifle will let ALL of us shoot the rest of the walk. Ive taken lots down the walk sharing my rifle. Twice two people (father and son). Three of us using my rifle, with the TC 1000+ lubes. Easy as pie.

TC 1000+ is nontoxic, made from mostly ‘nontoxic’ mineral oil and wax.

 

[jps2486]

You might consider TSI Synthetic lubricant.

https://tsi301.com/gunlubricant.htm
https://tsi301.com/issynthetic.htm

 

[sawyer04]

Dang it. Sometimes I wish I could sell popcorn on some of these threads. This one could get interesting in voicing opinions.

Might be a two bagger

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Almost forgot, in the stickies somewhere are Stumpy's moose butter and moose snot.
Cheaper than TC 1000+, and is about the same.

For cleaning lubrication of the lock and rust protection, not so much.

I coat everything with bore butter after the last fall shoot. I take the lock out in the spring and wipe out the excess lube. I coat the barrel with a thin coat before it goes into the safe for the winter.

 

[mjcraw]

Barricade seems to work best for me, too. The oil dries up but there must be a dry coating left cause there's little if any rust, especially in my revolver cylinders.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I’m in a pretty dry part

We live in the pacific north wet.

So where you live will have a be impact on what you use.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

For long term storage in humid conditions (Pacific Northwest and SE Alaska) I've used RIG with excellent results. It's not an oil but a rust preventative grease.

 

[S.Kenton]

If you are using petroleum based oils with holy black powder you WRONG.
Petro oils and burnt BP makes some wonderful stuff called sludge.

By using only water/natural based cleaners and lubes, your 50th load will be the same as your first. Been there, done that, for 30 years.

My personal best times during trail walks is when one of the shooters (had 2 of them twice) clog their barrels up so bad they had to leave the firing line.

Have no fear, my TC1000+ lubed rifle will let ALL of us shoot the rest of the walk. Ive taken lots down the walk sharing my rifle. Twice two people (father and son). Three of us using my rifle, with the TC 1000+ lubes. Easy as pie.


I use fluid film or WD-40 for long term storage... before loading I clean my bore with a nice shot of brake clean and swab it out. Then I’ll pop off a cap or two to make sure the breech is completely clear. I would say synthetic oil would be good and I’m sure there are others as well.

 

[Brent]

The best oil is actually a grease, elbow grease. Get it clean! Then the oil can be ordinary gun oil, NAPA ATF, or even TC1000 (which I personally think is horrible).

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

To lubricate and preserve iron and steel? 3-in-1 oil. Nothing better.

 

[Davey Boy]

Story time, 40 years ago when money was worth something...

One cousin collected shotguns, the other a commercial offshore fisherman in the Gulf of Maine

The fisherman saw a really nice shotgun while visiting his brother the collector. So he got the shotgun on loan and they parted company. One day several months later, the collector inquired about the shotgun. The fisherman replied, "I kept it on the boat, one day it was so rusted I threw it overboard as we were entering the harbor and passing the bell buoy." The collector probably turned pale as he exclaimed the shotgun was worth over ten thousand dollars.

Had the gun been sprayed with Fluid Film or LPS 3, it might still be around. If the environment is always wet or damp and iron and steel left exposed, all the weany products mentioned without hourly application would not have saved the shotgun.

Live and learn

 

[Newtire]

So long as you don’t use any of the lubes that act as a solvent and wipe the bore clean before shooting, you should be OK. The machine shop instructor we had used some stuff called Boshield on the shop mills and lathes. Swore by it. Swore at WD-40 because it evaporates and sucks all the oil out of the pores of the metal. I use Barricade and wipe it out real good before shooting. Seems to work and not all that pricey. I’ll bet motor oil would work well since it can sits on an engine all winter that manages to start up in the spring. Pretty cheap too!