Once again Brownells Rust Preventative #2. A light oil MEANT to inhibit rust. No voodoo witchcraft potions needed. Although @Oldbear63 is spot on with Howards Feed n Wax. I've had great success with that externally as well.
Best oil for rust prevention
- Thread starter nebhunt
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I use Barricade but whatever you choose just make sure you check and relube a couple of days after cleaning then again a week later then once a month when not shooting. With this regiment I have never developed rust.
White Oak
40 Cal.
Barricade here on all guns for rust prevention. I have several that have not been used in years and no rust without any reapplication.
I still check them often as Eastern Nebraska has plenty of humidity.
I still check them often as Eastern Nebraska has plenty of humidity.
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I like LSA. I think the letters, in classic Army fashion, stand for "Lubricant, Small Arms." Used to find it in the little green squeeze bottles at gun shows and surplus stores, but the military must have phased it out. It's hard to find now. A few years ago, Sarco was selling it in quart cans, and I bought three. At the rate I'm going, I'll be able to pass some down to my descendants. This stuff is kind of a milky, off-white color, and is pretty thick. If it sits for a long time it separates into a thinner fluid and a heavy, white grease, but you can shake the container to mix it. It does not evaporate. I have guns that have been in storage for years that were wiped down with LSA, and it's like they were put away yesterday. I'm sure it is a petroleum product, and you know what everybody says about petroleum and black powder, but I have had no problem.
Next up would be Fluid Film. I have not used this on guns, but I use it on my tools. It smells good, lubricates well, and does not evaporate. I would not hesitate to use it on my guns if I didn't have LSA.
One thing I don't use is WD-40. I think most of us who have looked into it agree that WD-40 was developed as a cleaning agent. It works well as a lubricant in the short term, but the same thing could be said for Ivory soap. The problem with WD-40 is that, as a cleaner, it cleans off whatever protective film is on the metal, and then it evaporates within a few weeks, leaving bare metal. Rust is oxidation... The combination of the ferrous metal surface reacting with oxygen in the air (or water, or other corrosive substance). You want a film of something on the metal that will protect it from prolonged exposure to the air and humidity. Whatever you put on there should last at least as long as the gun will be in storage. If you are pulling your gun out and shooting it every few days, WD-40 will probably work fine for you. In addition, the "WD" stands for "water displacement." If you clean your gun with water, a shot of WD-40 in critical areas will help remove it. However, if you are going to pack that gun up for more than a week or two, I would use something else. For the record, WD-40 also reacts badly with some plastics, so be careful where you spray it.
A lot of people love CLP. To each his own, I guess... Use what works for you. I have tried CLP, and was not impressed.
My opinion, for what it's worth...
Notchy Bob
Next up would be Fluid Film. I have not used this on guns, but I use it on my tools. It smells good, lubricates well, and does not evaporate. I would not hesitate to use it on my guns if I didn't have LSA.
One thing I don't use is WD-40. I think most of us who have looked into it agree that WD-40 was developed as a cleaning agent. It works well as a lubricant in the short term, but the same thing could be said for Ivory soap. The problem with WD-40 is that, as a cleaner, it cleans off whatever protective film is on the metal, and then it evaporates within a few weeks, leaving bare metal. Rust is oxidation... The combination of the ferrous metal surface reacting with oxygen in the air (or water, or other corrosive substance). You want a film of something on the metal that will protect it from prolonged exposure to the air and humidity. Whatever you put on there should last at least as long as the gun will be in storage. If you are pulling your gun out and shooting it every few days, WD-40 will probably work fine for you. In addition, the "WD" stands for "water displacement." If you clean your gun with water, a shot of WD-40 in critical areas will help remove it. However, if you are going to pack that gun up for more than a week or two, I would use something else. For the record, WD-40 also reacts badly with some plastics, so be careful where you spray it.
A lot of people love CLP. To each his own, I guess... Use what works for you. I have tried CLP, and was not impressed.
My opinion, for what it's worth...
Notchy Bob
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An old die maker told me that WD 40 was just "Fish Oil and Kerosene", I think he was very close!
I have some LSA. The bottle I had dried up some. Not completely but got real thick form a hot garage. I diluted it some so I could still use it but luckily found some last year at a gunshow. I don't use it on the M/L though. I switched to Barricade recently because of issues. WD40 worked fine out west where it is dry but here I needed something heavier where the Humidity is high. I think the military switched to a synthetic lube.
chix2111
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This is very interesting because we spray WD40 on our Salmon lures, in both salt water and in the Columbia River here in Washington. The best fisherman I know swears by it. On firearms I had found it an ok rust preventative but it can turn to a yellow gum if put on too thick and let stand for a length of time.
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We use to spray our lures in Michigan with it also, been a while since I have done that!
SolidLeadSlug
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Almond oil, olive oil, motor oil *thin*
I'm surprised anyone would use wd40 as rust preventative for more than 24h. As mentioned above by Notchy Bob wd40 is not an oil. It is a water displacer. I use a lot of it after I clean my guns with water to get rid of water that may be left in threads, under ribs, etc. Then I wipe all wd40 dry and I use the proper rust preventative.
Depending on the amount of time I expect the gun to be untouched for I'll use
- ballistol (very short term few days)
- neatsfoot oil or various other common low viscosity oils I have on hand like jojoba oil(weeks to months). Used (or new) motor oil is in the same category, but I save it to use on my farm implements and heavy machinery rather than guns.
- black powder lubricant, that is a mix of non spoiling oils like coconut or neatsfoot oil with beeswax. This is used for very long term - years. In the same category I would put water resistant grease. I use it in bores of some of my original guns that are touched once per year. No new rust forms there.
I have had very bad experiences with Wd40 even after as short a time as a week in not that humid environment. Since then I don't use it as a rust preventative.
Depending on the amount of time I expect the gun to be untouched for I'll use
- ballistol (very short term few days)
- neatsfoot oil or various other common low viscosity oils I have on hand like jojoba oil(weeks to months). Used (or new) motor oil is in the same category, but I save it to use on my farm implements and heavy machinery rather than guns.
- black powder lubricant, that is a mix of non spoiling oils like coconut or neatsfoot oil with beeswax. This is used for very long term - years. In the same category I would put water resistant grease. I use it in bores of some of my original guns that are touched once per year. No new rust forms there.
I have had very bad experiences with Wd40 even after as short a time as a week in not that humid environment. Since then I don't use it as a rust preventative.
The definitive answer:
Clean it correctly and you will not be prone to having rust and corrosion. Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared.
Clean it correctly and you will not be prone to having rust and corrosion. Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared.
APG
45 Cal.
Being in the Army in the early 80's I was introduced to CLP. Been using it ever since. Muzzleloaders and unmentionable too.
JCKelly
45 Cal.
The old RIG was pretty good, but they sold the name a couple decades ago. Dunno how the current stuff is. Haven't shot for awhile, (inconveniences of some years) but if I were serious today I'd look up at least two different comparative tests on corrosion vs Oil Brand.
Regardless, I would not buy anything from Remington. Unimpressed by their Company Culture, which seems not to have improved since Mid-Civil War days.
Regardless, I would not buy anything from Remington. Unimpressed by their Company Culture, which seems not to have improved since Mid-Civil War days.
You guys over the big pond dont seem to be able to buy it but here in the UK we have ACF50. A rust and corrosion inhibitor designed by the military to keep carrier borne aircraft free of these.
I rust blue/black unmentionable barrels and if ACF has been used it's almost impossible to de-grease the barrels. Excellent stuff, but not a lubricant. Bikers use it a lot in our horrible winters with lots of salt on the roads.
I rust blue/black unmentionable barrels and if ACF has been used it's almost impossible to de-grease the barrels. Excellent stuff, but not a lubricant. Bikers use it a lot in our horrible winters with lots of salt on the roads.
Never heard of ACF50, so thought I would do a Google search and found it.
Also learned, as mentioned, that it is used on motorcycles here this side of the pond. For those who want some it can be bought from Amazon.
- ACF-50 kills any corrosion currently in progress with just one application.
- ACF-50 is non-flammable, non-carcinogenic, and virtually non-toxic.
- ACF-50 can be safely applied to electronics such as radios, timers, test equipment, antenna connections, computers, etc.
- ACF-50 can be safely applied to electrical components such as alternators, starters, magnetos, generators, distributors, carburators, wiring, switches, rheostats, compressors, battery terminals, light bulb sockets, electrical connectors, circuit breakers, ignition systems, wire harnesses, etc.
- ACF-50 provides excellent low-shear lubrication to moving parts and cables.
The best rust preventive oil is the one that works for you. What I like or what Joe Bagadonuts likes is immaterial.
So try different stuff and the one that suits YOU is the one to use.
However if you shoot real Gunpowder or substitutes no oil will dissolve the salts that cause corrosion.
IMHO
Bunk
So try different stuff and the one that suits YOU is the one to use.
However if you shoot real Gunpowder or substitutes no oil will dissolve the salts that cause corrosion.
IMHO
Bunk
Paladin357
32 Cal
It's always interesting to see threads like this; most everyone has their favorite product. The same thing is seen on sword-related forums as well. When the test that SDS linked to was first published it quickly made the rounds of the various gun and sword forums I belong to, and the results are very informative. However, as the author states, the testing was done in extreme conditions that most of our items will never experience. Unless you live in a VERY wet area and/or your guns will see heavy exposure, there's no need to get too particular about which product is best, IMHO.
Personally I use Rem Oil and a silicone cloth on all my knives, swords, and firearms and have never had a problem. While I personally don't have a BP firearm yet, my dad has also had no problems just using Rem Oil on his percussion guns.
Personally I use Rem Oil and a silicone cloth on all my knives, swords, and firearms and have never had a problem. While I personally don't have a BP firearm yet, my dad has also had no problems just using Rem Oil on his percussion guns.
very interesting, but will it dissolve salt? If it will it is a wonder product. If it will not dissolve salt it is worthless as a cleaner.
As a protectant after cleaning it may have possibility.
Respectfully
Bunk
Don't know, I was just curious if it was available on this side of the pond.
Maybe those on the east side of the pond will chime in
Looking at Amazon, it is pricey.
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