Can we see a photo so we know better what we're discussing? As noted above, iron furniture is often intentionally browned.
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Best polish for iron furniture
- Thread starter marsh trapper
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marsh trapper
40 Cal.
Thank you !
marsh trapper
40 Cal.
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Your rifle was intentionally browned, you could strip off all the browning (a huge job, not for the inexperienced.) and gray the metal but browning is very durable and graying is only cosmetic and doesn't hold up well.
The browning process amounts to putting acid on the metal, letting it rust and rubbing off the red rust and repeating the process over and over until your parts build up a thick brown patina like an old log chain.
Here is a TN rifle I made and browned the parts.
In my opinion your metal browning job looks fine but your stock is much too shiny, a satin finish would complement the metal on your rifle.
This is a gray gun, this is done with a cold blue solution and rubbed back from blue to gray.
Your rifle appears to be very well made with very nice inletting and a consistent theme from end to end.
The browning process amounts to putting acid on the metal, letting it rust and rubbing off the red rust and repeating the process over and over until your parts build up a thick brown patina like an old log chain.
Here is a TN rifle I made and browned the parts.
In my opinion your metal browning job looks fine but your stock is much too shiny, a satin finish would complement the metal on your rifle.
This is a gray gun, this is done with a cold blue solution and rubbed back from blue to gray.
Your rifle appears to be very well made with very nice inletting and a consistent theme from end to end.
Looks can be deceiving however some aspects of this gun suggest it may be someone's first attempt at gun making. If this is the case, and if it were mine, I would remove the iron components, polish them and re brown using a browning reagent such as Wahkton Bay true brown. I would also want to replace or correct many of the screws.
Nice looking rifle. It doesn't appear to be an original so you're not going to hurt the value whatever you decide. I think you should just shoot it and enjoy it. How did you aquire it and what caliber is it? Thanks for posting the pictures.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Well whaduhyaknow. A rifle with no original historical significance.
It has the potential to be a very nice rifle. Looks the builder got sloppy and sanded valleys into the stock.
I'd strip the stock and use straight edges, pencil marks and hardwood backed sandpaper to level things out.
Have fun getting her fixed up, OP.
It has the potential to be a very nice rifle. Looks the builder got sloppy and sanded valleys into the stock.
I'd strip the stock and use straight edges, pencil marks and hardwood backed sandpaper to level things out.
Have fun getting her fixed up, OP.
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appalichian hunter
75 Cal.
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I still vote for the belt sander.
64Springer
75 Cal.
40 grit sandblaster.
marsh trapper
40 Cal.
I went ahead and got her shined up with some 0000 steel wool. I honestly like how it turned out ! . Theres no markings on rifle and all i know it was built by a builder in york county. I purchased through an estate through Cabin Creek
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marsh trapper
40 Cal.
.45 cal
64Springer
75 Cal.
Looks good, OP.
Lots of folks on here have unfinished steel bits and pieces.
If what you did helps you to enjoy the rifle more, then good on you.
Lots of folks on here have unfinished steel bits and pieces.
If what you did helps you to enjoy the rifle more, then good on you.
Now, clean the bore really well and go shoot it!
I think it looks better actually. I'd let it age naturally and it will take on a nice look to it. Let us know how it shoots
marsh trapper
40 Cal.
Thats what im thinking too
user 34300
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Thanks for posting photos.
That is a modern gun. It is was done in a primitive folk art style. You can not hurt it.
IT is supposed to be brown. It looks like you have some after rust. IF you want to take the rough flock rust down a notch then use fine steel wool and oil or, liquid soap. Do not soak the stock with either. The key to avoid scratching is to keep the steel wool clean of loose rust. Use lost of oil or soapy water. I like a bowl of dish soap and water to dunk and rinse the steel wool.
IF you want the small metal parts black, boil them. That will also loosen the rust.
Screws? Slotted Oval Head Steel Wood Screws
They are soft. IF you need to re black them, heat to just under red hot and plunge in canola oil. You can do that trick with the rear sight too.
Be sure you have screwdrivers that fit the slots properly.
The wood finish is quite shiny. Maybe true oil? You can rub that back with fine steel wool, automotive rubbing compound and Windex. You might try with a rag and the wetted rubbing compound first and see how you like that. Keep away from the browned metal, the abrasive will take the finish off quickly. Just knock the shine off the wood. If you go to far you will break through the finish. After a light coat of linseed oil or wax will look good on it.
Have fun.
That is a modern gun. It is was done in a primitive folk art style. You can not hurt it.
IT is supposed to be brown. It looks like you have some after rust. IF you want to take the rough flock rust down a notch then use fine steel wool and oil or, liquid soap. Do not soak the stock with either. The key to avoid scratching is to keep the steel wool clean of loose rust. Use lost of oil or soapy water. I like a bowl of dish soap and water to dunk and rinse the steel wool.
IF you want the small metal parts black, boil them. That will also loosen the rust.
Screws? Slotted Oval Head Steel Wood Screws
They are soft. IF you need to re black them, heat to just under red hot and plunge in canola oil. You can do that trick with the rear sight too.
Be sure you have screwdrivers that fit the slots properly.
The wood finish is quite shiny. Maybe true oil? You can rub that back with fine steel wool, automotive rubbing compound and Windex. You might try with a rag and the wetted rubbing compound first and see how you like that. Keep away from the browned metal, the abrasive will take the finish off quickly. Just knock the shine off the wood. If you go to far you will break through the finish. After a light coat of linseed oil or wax will look good on it.
Have fun.
philipgill
32 Cal
For iron furniture like your southern mountain rifle, the best polish in Australia would be one specifically designed for metal surfaces. Look for products labeled as metal polish or metal cleaner, which can effectively remove the brownish tarnish and restore the original shine, surpassing the results of general-purpose cleaners like Never Dull.
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I use non woven unitized wheels on steel furniture, then i blend in with a fine wire wheel.
For coloring you can brown, grey and temper and quench in linseed or motor oil for a nice dark, brown or grey finish.
A few years ago I put some steel parts for a dog lock musket over a coal, quenched in a bucket of transmission fluid, and the finish was a dark brown color, a type of black oxide, then i tempered on low heat to relieve stress.
