SLOTHEAD
40 Cal
And I guess you answered my question: “can I trim the pellet for lesser charges?” Your answer appears to be yes.
It should look like a lighter colored ring. Hogden puts a real blackpowder kicker ignition ring on the pellets , or at least did when I last used them and they were loaded kicker ring downHow is the “kicker” identified?
So Stan, what is the pellet consistency? Is it like baked ceramic, soft cork, or somewhere in between?View attachment 190533
Maybe 777 pellets don't have the kicker ?
It should be plainly visible so you'll know either way
It's been since about 2001 since I've used Pyrodex and 777 pellets
If you are talking about C&B revolvers, only surefire way is to measure the barrel rifling diameter relative to the diameter of the chambers. I have found a cylinder chamber diameter a couple of thousands larger than the rifling diameter with a properly fitting ball or bullet to give the best accuracy. There is a significant difference, at least in my opinion, if ‘accuracy’ is a concern, between Pietta and Uberti pistol rifling diameter for example.So I’ve heard a great deal of various numbers for .36 and .44 bullet/ball diameters, and am curious if there is some chart or organized collection of data that helps unravel what is the “best” projectile diameters that seal the chambers and effectively engage the barrel rifling without experimenting with order after order (and delay after delay) of increasing sizes to find the best size. Thanks for any recommendations. Tom KC3QAC
Tell us what you’re shooting, uberti or Pietta, and we’ll tell you what it needs. If it’s a stock pistol there’s no mystery to it. You can make it as easy or difficult as possible. Some people chase accuracy and performance from these old guns. Others just content to bang away at tin cans.Thanks for illustrating my point guys.
Thanks guys
If you are talking about C&B revolvers, only surefire way is to measure the barrel rifling diameter relative to the diameter of the chambers. I have found a cylinder chamber diameter a couple of thousands larger than the rifling diameter with a properly fitting ball or bullet to give the best accuracy. There is a significant difference, at least in my opinion, if ‘accuracy’ is a concern, between Pietta and Uberti pistol rifling diameter for example.
You can measure the cylinder chambers (and ream if necessary) and bore rifling diameters for the correct ball size, or use trial and error experimentation process and hope for the best.
It’s just pressed but if you try to cut or trim them they’ll crumble. The good news is that then you’ll be left with loose powder which is just what you needed. The triple 7 pellets are made only and specifically for rifles to the best of my knowledge. I believe there’s a warning on the package against their use in pistols. They are nearly twice as much propellant as the guns are designed for.So Stan, what is the pellet consistency? Is it like baked ceramic, soft cork, or somewhere in between?
They may be hard to ignite even with CCI #11 Magnums in a revolver but I have used loose 777 in revolvers with no problemsIt’s just pressed but if you try to cut or trim them they’ll crumble. The good news is that then you’ll be left with loose powder which is just what you needed. The triple 7 pellets are made only and specifically for rifles to the best of my knowledge. I believe there’s a warning on the package against their use in pistols. They are nearly twice as much propellant as the guns are designed for.
50 grains of T7 is a load alright…They may be hard to ignite even with CCI #11 Magnums in a revolver but I have used loose 777 in revolvers with no problems
But , unless you have a Dragoon or Walker they won't fit
The pellets I used were made for revolvers ,those had the "kicker" ring
I don't think I have any .451's. but then I don't have but one Pietta 1860 and it's now been bored to .453 so .457 work in it. In ball ammo I find the .457 ball works in everything, even undersized .446-.449 chambers. Some folks complain about the seating pressure required but I've never had a problem, even with the short levers on 5.5" guns. Soft lead balls are, well... soft....451 RBs didn't cut a ring in my Pietta 1860 Army so I ordered some .454 RBs - if the .454s don't cut a decent ring, I'll order some .457s. I get a nice ring on my Uberti .36 Navy using .395 RBs so I'm happy with them. I don't know if the .451 RBs can be sized down to .395 or not - I hate to waste them by never using them.
I know exactly what you're saying....the other day I was shooting 777 and it just didn't have the sound , or the smell.....it smells kinda like dirty smokeless and has more of a "crack " on firing50 grains of T7 is a load alright…
I don't mean to suggest the T7 isn't a good powder for revolvers. I liked it just fine. It doesn't contain Sulphur which makes it smell weird to me. Real black powder has the right smell and works great, but I could happily shoot T7 the rest of my days if that's what I had to do.
Somebody sent me a couple dozen of those 200 grain bullets. I’m not sure if I ever shot them. I should dig them out…I have been casting the Lee REAL bullet in a .45 200 gr. I am getting an itch to throw 25 gr in the 1860's chambers n load a cyl. full n try them out. I did not shoot a tick toter with my 1860 this hunting season. I have 2 Bucks with in 15 yds but i did not want to shoot either as their racks were on the small side. I had just shot a big Doe they were chasing. I just did some sight picture aiming at them.
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