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best ramrod

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lenl349

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I'd like to know what you folks think is the best quality ramrod. Thought I had a good one but I actually bent it trying to push the last two RBs down the barrel.
 
Bent it? Is your ramrod made of metal?

I'm pretty happy with hickory for ramrods. I have had no issues with ramin wood rods, although others on this forum report problems with it. A lot of people recommend brass or steel or delrin for range rods, and I respect their recommendations, but hickory has served me well. You just need to make sure your wooden rod has straight grain, with no "runout."

The trick is to start your ball with a short starter (people used to call them "straight starters"). When you switch to your ramrod to push the ball the rest of the way down, grab the rod just a few inches above the muzzle and push, then move your hand up a few inches and push again. Repeat, a few inches at a time, until the ball is seated. Multiple short pushes will be better than one long swoop. That "long push" is how a lot of wooden rods get broken

If the rod bent, it suggests there was "too much rod" between your hand and the muzzle, which allowed the rod to bend.

This has actually been discussed recently on this forum at some length. I would suggest browsing some of the older threads from the past couple of months, or maybe do a search for threads with "ramrod" in the heading.

Good luck, and be safe!

Notchy Bob
 
Cleaning of my guns is accomplished with ss range rods. Other than that I do 90% of all reloading with the hickory, underbarrel rod. There are also two or three coated fiberglass rods that I use from time to time. Thing is, all rods, except for the hickory ones, have muzzle protectors.
 
What ever is period correct for the gun you are shooting. So, that's usually wood or steel.
I love the beauty, feel and responsiveness of a wooden ramrod.
For range rods I prefer steel.
 
I didn't answer right off because I wanted to think about my answer. My favorite I guess would be a rod I have that is actually wood impregnated with a type of resin to give it strength. I don't know if they even make them any more and don't recall what it was called. The least favorite is the cheap dowel rods than usually come with the ML. I have only used them when I had nothing else until I got a replacement. The Delrin RR is very limp and feels uncomfortable to use because of that but it does it's job. I have a fiberglass one that came with one of my MLs I bought used. It works great. I coated it with a polymer so I wouldn't get slivers in my hand. I also have a plastic type that is stiffer, not like the Delrin and it's probably my second favorite. My 32 has an aluminum rod and I like it for that because 32 is so small. Over all though if I was to need to buy one today I would order a hickory rod with straight grain. I do have one on another 32 I have my I hate to use it because it's so small and because it is a very old ML. I don't know it it's original rod(probably not) but it is old.
 
I think fibre glass is abraisive never used it but seems a common view . I've used Tawa (NZ native),Oak, and even curly maple off cut from a wheellock I made stocked in it, Its served fine for 40 years or so & the thin Tawa only broke when I ran into a mountain with it .That will do it !.
It was only used in the two grouve rifle I fitted it to after years of bush miles (24 bore 1 in 60" pitch for belted ball or winged 'shell') The balls were most suited though the hollow nosed shells where easier to draw out just over kill and not as flat shooting . ( important in forests as gauging range is difficult). My favourite cap lock ( I don't have many that use caps . I like flint or earlier) .Only other rod I recall was a cleaning rod I carried inside the 50 cal barrel of a long rifle I lugged down the Tesitika river on Vancouver Island the guns rod had seized by rain . As I neared the sea running salmon where coming up ,, Fish for tea !. I upped & shot wondering why the gun jumped more, then it dawned I had not took out the rod . But I got the fish, broke the rod mind . I made a fire to cook my fish & heat up the guns rod got it free & reduced it with river gravel So it served as intended I fought the Coastal' Salal' bush but decided a raft better bussiness . Plenty of drifted logs so joined three up if they rode so low I was about sat in water as I paddled the flat calm' Salt chuck 'up & into Beaver cove watching Orcas play & cruise liners heading for Alert Bay probably , their waves so big if gentle I had no fear. Its the hard chine motorboats rock rafts about .. Anyway this ' gun boat' is getting off topic .
Regards Rudyard
 
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It's thin stainless. I think bob is right--too much rod between my hand and the muzzle. I do use a bullet starter so this happened as I was pushing it the rest of the way down. wondering if after 8 or 9 rounds there was a buildup of soot that held the ball and patch too tightly making it even harder to push the RB all the way down.
 
In my .32cal all I use is a good piece of hickory. No metal tips, just carve a cleaning jag on the end and call it good, just like Granny showed me! I’ve got Delron, aluminum, steel and brass and don’t care for any of them! Just my 2 cents...
 
Wooden ramrods are just part of the muzleloading experience, same as shooting round balls.
Embrace them, don't fight it. :)
Nothing beats a broken ramrod through the palm of one’s hand. That’s why we are here...... Same reason you want a fastball aimed about 6” behind your head. You will instinctively move your head into its path. Let’s you you experience the good old days, although you may have no memory of what happened.
 
Nothing beats a broken ramrod through the palm of one’s hand. That’s why we are here...... Same reason you want a fastball aimed about 6” behind your head. You will instinctively move your head into its path. Let’s you you experience the good old days, although you may have no memory of what happened.

You can't put a broken ramrod through your hand if you are doing it right. As has been repeatedly explained in prior posts.
 
I do use a bullet starter so this happened as I was pushing it the rest of the way down. wondering if after 8 or 9 rounds there was a buildup of soot that held the ball and patch too tightly making it even harder to push the RB all the way down.
I think you're on the right track. Some folks have worked out combinations of barrel, ball, patch, and lube that allow them to shoot "all day" without cleaning, but most of us have to wipe the bore after every few shots. Some target shooters, and people working up loads, wipe the bore after every shot, but that's more than most of us want or need to do. I expect to wipe the bore after every two to five shots, depending on the rifle and the load.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob
 
Nothing beats a broken ramrod through the palm of one’s hand. That’s why we are here...... Same reason you want a fastball aimed about 6” behind your head. You will instinctively move your head into its path. Let’s you you experience the good old days, although you may have no memory of what happened.
I started muzzelloading about 1974-5. Fell in love and out side of self defense guns ml is all I shoot. I have not hunted with a modern gun the day after my first ml rifle shots.
I broke a wood ramrod before I got to my first ml club shoot. Learned then how to use a wooden rod and got my first hickory rod. Have not broke a rod since except cleaning. I withdrew in one long stroke and tipped off to the side at the end Of the stroke snapping a tip off. This was in the middle eighties.
Wood used right won’t break
 
It's thin stainless. I think bob is right--too much rod between my hand and the muzzle. I do use a bullet starter so this happened as I was pushing it the rest of the way down. wondering if after 8 or 9 rounds there was a buildup of soot that held the ball and patch too tightly making it even harder to push the RB all the way down.

There is a reason why ball starters are made and why people swab between shots.
 
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