Best Reassembly Oil

[Bad Karma]

Great idea to pack the action to keep junk out along with the cover on the hammer but won’t the grease react with the BP fowling?
So I can use red high temp bearing grease to do this? Thought using petroleum based products was a no no.

It all depends. But no, grease doesn’t react with bp fouling, also BP fouling needs oxygen to oxidize and the grease doesn’t allow oxygen to be the surfaces of the parts In the action. Actually I used to hose down the inside of the action with CLP, Eezox, or any good grade of gun oil and run them like I do Grease. It looked HORRIBLE! inside but no rust, just this nasty black gunk I would clean out once a year or so.
I’ve heard horror stories about oil and bp residue forever too. Hasn’t been my experience but in the bores (rifles, etc.) I clean out the oils before use.

 

[45D]

Action shield! That's a new one on me. Is this mase by you or purchased? Given your photographic expertise could you please share a photo of it by itself.

Thanks so much.

Here it is.

This one is in a cap gun, the curl on the end is for caps / frags.
Just as with the car industry, the racing crowd is where a lot of "new " technologies come from. In this case, the cowboy shooters had been using Mobil1 synthetic long before I found out about it. It looked like a great way to protect "my " work from the customer!! (They aren't the best at cleanup!!) So, I started using it in the shop years ago.
I thought up my shield not too long after.

Mike

 

[ernbar]

Thanks BK for the explanation. I use this pumper to load up the bearing cups in my bicycles so looks like this will inject the thick red bearing grease into the pistol action to lube and keep out BP fowling.

 

[ernbar]

Here it is.
View attachment 163791
This one is in a cap gun, the curl on the end is for caps / frags.

Mike

I know you install them and it’s a fantastic idea. I will give it a go and do one myself since I have a drill press.

 

[M. De Land]

Here it is.
View attachment 163791
This one is in a cap gun, the curl on the end is for caps / frags.
Just as with the car industry, the racing crowd is where a lot of "new " technologies come from. In this case, the cowboy shooters had been using Mobil1 synthetic long before I found out about it. It looked like a great way to protect "my " work from the customer!! (They aren't the best at cleanup!!) So, I started using it in the shop years ago.
I thought up my shield not too long after.

Mike

I like that idea but wonder about the cut in the front of the hammer body as a good place for a fracture to begin. These generally have some case hardening skin on them over the softer core metal.

 

[ernbar]

I like that idea but wonder about the cut in the front of the hammer body as a good place for a fracture to begin. These generally have some case hardening skin on them over the softer core metal.

That is one great point.

 

[45D]

I like that idea but wonder about the cut in the front of the hammer body as a good place for am fracture to begin. These generally have some case hardening skin on them over the softer core metal.

No, because the slot goes to a hole that is drilled first. The shield is inserted from the side as a roll pin is. Have several hundred out in the "race community" with absolutely no issues (mine included . . . though I'm not a participant).

Also, the hammer draw is reduced across the board to 4 lbs. So there is less "hammering " than would normally be.

Mike

 

[ernbar]

No, because the slot goes to a hole that is drilled first.
Mike

That makes sense. The cut ends in the drilled hole eliminating the possibility of a fracture, brilliant.

 

[M. De Land]

No, because the slot goes to a hole that is drilled first. The shield is inserted from the side as a roll pin is. Have several hundred out in the "race community" with absolutely no issues (mine included . . . though I'm not a participant).

Also, the hammer draw is reduced across the board to 4 lbs. So there is less "hammering " than would normally be.

Mike

Thanks for that testimonial of no issues! It looks like a great idea in that case !

 

[Bad Karma]

Do you just squeeze the stuff into the action from the opening at the base of the hammer?

I use a needle and my mini grease gun…

 

[Jaegermeister]

For what it’s worth, my Goonerized 1860 Uberti feels totally invincible. Grease, shield, coil springs and all. Gives me 100% confidence. Not a single cap jam or a bit of fouling.
Thanks Mike! Absolute shameless endorsement.

 

[45D]

For what it’s worth, my Goonerized 1860 Uberti feels totally invincible. Grease, shield, coil springs and all. Gives me 100% confidence. Not a single cap jam or a bit of fouling.
Thanks Mike! Absolute shameless endorsement.

Thank you sir!!! I will shamelessly accept!!!

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

For what it’s worth, my Goonerized 1860 Uberti feels totally invincible. Grease, shield, coil springs and all. Gives me 100% confidence. Not a single cap jam or a bit of fouling.
Thanks Mike! Absolute shameless endorsement.

That is the best advertisement that can be had, an enthusiastic, unsolicited , happy customer ! Good for both of you !

 

[M. De Land]

Here it is.
View attachment 163791
This one is in a cap gun, the curl on the end is for caps / frags.
Just as with the car industry, the racing crowd is where a lot of "new " technologies come from. In this case, the cowboy shooters had been using Mobil1 synthetic long before I found out about it. It looked like a great way to protect "my " work from the customer!! (They aren't the best at cleanup!!) So, I started using it in the shop years ago.
I thought up my shield not too long after.

Mike

Is the shield spring steel or just soft stock and jig formed ?

 

[45D]

Just brass, .010 sheet. Cut to width.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Just brass, .010 sheet. Cut to width.

Mike

Oh yeah, I couldn't figure out the color or surface texture. That's all that would be needed!

 

[M. De Land]

Just brass, .010 sheet. Cut to width.

Mike

Is there any need for a cap rake if the shield is installed ?

 

[45D]

If you're a "competition " guy (CAS) I'd say get the cap post. If it's a "non- stress" competition, a shield is probably good enough. The main difference will be if speed is important, a post is a definite but the shield will keep "junk" out of your action.

Mike

 

[Billy Boy]

No, it's good from roughly -40° to 300°. With an action shield, you'll probably never need to clean the action parts again!

Mike

So, it wouldn’t work up here..