best way to cut really hard wood?

[bowkill]

What is the best way to cut hard wood? I have alot of wood to remove off my fusil and the rasp i have will barely cut it, it will be quite a workout. I usually cut through it fast but this is the hardest maple i have ever seen. Came from :idunno: tow.

 

[Vaino]

I use the various shapes of Surforms and then the #49 rasp on precarves. On blanks I saw right on the line for minimal wood removal. Using worn out tools does try one's patience....Fred

 

[bowkill]

all my files must be wore.I have built a couple guns with them, i would say brand has allot to do with it. off to the hardware store...

 

[saber]

a lot of stocks are soft maple you must have what I call a rock maple stock have gotten some from cabin creek but they are best for good sharp caveing and my last 2 had outstanding grain but best way is to use a craftsmen styrofoam rasp and cheapest place to find them is from e-bay

 

[Old Salt]

I prefer to use a block plain for removing a lot of wood off the long lines of the stock, ie the forend. I use scrapers to help add concave or convex surfaces and then work coarse and fine files.

Leo

 

[hoochiepapa]

...or a good sharp spoke shave.

 

[Old Salt]

...or a good sharp spoke shave.

That is a tool I need to add to my tool box. :thumbsup:

Leo

 

[bioprof]

I use the various shapes of Surforms and then the #49 rasp on precarves. On blanks I saw right on the line for minimal wood removal. Using worn out tools does try one's patience....Fred

I prefer to use microplanes over Surform files. They seem to be much sharper and cut better for me at least. They also are relatively inexpensive.

 

[jsn]

I use some old draw knives and a small 2in bladed one for shaping....It works well and quick, its like using a scraper.

 

[Bill Hall]

I use a horseshoe rasp. Love it. One side is really coarse, and will hog off wood "right now", even really hard wood. The other side is finer, for cleaning up the rough marks from the coarser side. The thing I like about the rasp is it's flat and fairly long, not like a sureform, so it's easier to keep a straight line. Just make sure the stock is anchored solidly in a vice, since that coarse side really puts some force on the stock.

They cost about $20 at your local feed store. Bill

 

[bowkill]

picked up a Surform file at the hardware store, about a 10 inches long ans 2 wide, should make the going easer..

 

[MSW]

Snowdragon- you got it!

Love my hoofrasp, too. Got it from a ferrier who gave it to me 'cause it rusted, which i guess isn't cool with horses, but the wood doesn't care, or at least, doesn't complain when i use it. Sure does hog out a boatload of material in a hurry- gotta be careful with the thing!

 

[T.C.Albert]

Vixen file...a sharp new one.These are flexible thin,wide, flat files with curved teeth on both sides...theres a turnbuckled holder you can get so you can set them concave, convex, or anything in between...they are used for auto body work, but do very well shaping up a stock as well..and they leave a smooth finish...
TCA

 

[jerrywh]

http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/angle-grinder-attachments-349_0.aspx
Look at the woodcarver pro2.
Be real carefull with this thing it will eat you alive and it takes off wood at an alarming rate.
They are real dangerous but it will take a stock down real fast.

 

[Jason Lewis]

http://www.timbecon.com.au/products/angle-grinder-attachments-349_0.aspx
Look at the woodcarver pro2.
Be real carefull with this thing it will eat you alive and it takes off wood at an alarming rate.
They are real dangerous but it will take a stock down real fast.

that's a mean looking SOB. :shocked2:

 

[bowkill]

lloks like a fast and easy way to loose a finger.. :shocked2:

 

[Birddog6]

:shake: Yep, looks like an accident looking for a place to happen..... :shake:

My vote goes to Microplanes & a Makita belt sander like this with a 40 grit belt. This baby will eat a stock up in minutes & will cut the buttplate time by 75%. Ya have to be careful with it as it will take you past the point of no return. But with a lil practice it will save you Hours on removing allot of excess material.
Works extremely well on the butt shaping, cheekpiece, & under it, etc. Do the forestock with Microplanes. Connect a vacuum & it sucks up allot of the dust it makes.

Keith Lisle

 

[Onojutta]

...or a good sharp spoke shave.

+1

That is an amazing and probably under-rated stock shaping tool.

 

[Metalshaper]

A builder buddy I know, is also a former auto body repair tech. He had a special disc/face made to fit his 9" auto-body angle grinder. Loads it with an 80 grit sheet and can rough shape a stock in about 15 minutes!! :grin: the rest he sneaks up on the final dimensions with files and a surform blade < without the handle >

I use a Shinto rasp and now have added a 14" farrier's file!! :wink:

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[hcook]

I use a draw knife, spoke shave and rasps.